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Member Since: Feb 6, 2012
Last Visit: 12 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 3,898
Total Points: 119
Last Year: 56
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 224 | Routes 9 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 142 | Stars 32 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Piedra Parada
By: the schmuck When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Excellent updated guidebook is available in any climbing shop in Bariloche. May be available in Esquel also, and Mario has one that can be borrowed. Place is getting popular. Contrary to the post above, there is a well appointed gas station in Gualjaina, as well as a grocery store that sells a limited selection of vegetables and dairy, as well as a good selection of non-perishables. On the same street you will also find a panaderia, a carniceria and a vegetable store. Do not go shopping dur... more >>


Location: AR : Mount Magazine State Park : Crag Central : Right to Flight/ The Nose (5.9)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 25, 2014

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Comments: This protects like a sport route. Manage rope drag before pulling roof, and you will be fine. Unique and fun, but not super classic.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Return of the Headhunters (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: This rig deserves at least 3 stars. Very nice .10 climbing with a hard 11b crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts, I believe.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Sudden Impact (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: This one is really fun and worth doing. It is not nearly as sharp as Desert Pickle, but a bit steeper and more physical. Be careful going to the second bolt as the climbing is a little insecure, and there is no good stance to clip from until your right hand is on a good flat edge up and right of it. If you pitch going for that edge, you could deck without an attentive belay.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Edward Silverhands (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Route is okay, even kind of fun, but all three bolts have the old recalled Leeper hangers that have been known to fracture under body weight. The anchors are welded shuts with a bad case of galvanic corrosion. The hardware is definitely not safe.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Retirement Wall : The Stroke (5.11-)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: I thought the crux in the middle of this route was harder than anything on Golden Years. Really hard for 11a, or maybe just having a very, very bad day.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Timorus (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: This route is actually to the left of Special Forces. There is a decent 11b squeeze job between Timorous and Special Forces.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Pirate's Wall : Pirated (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Fun, fairly sustained, with a .11 crux in the middle and difficult moves to clip the anchors.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cameltrack Canyon
By: the schmuck When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: I and a buddy climbed here during our short stay in Santa Fe over the winter of 1993. We knew it as Butthole canyon, and all the routes/anchors existed then. (The fixed piece in the roof fingercrack is mine!) We had no idea who was responsible for these silly little routes :-).


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : Dragonslayer (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Going left on the headwall has bigger holds but is much more awkward. After I fell going left, I went right and felt much more solid.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Bridge Area : The Arraignment (5.11b/c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: This would not be a bad route if not so filthy. The climbing is interesting, even good, but the entire rig is just coated with fine sand. More techy than pumpy. Please climb this so that it cleans up!


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Anti-Gravity Rock : Back to Zero (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: May not be as good as Groundwork, but it is a fantastic route.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Anti-Gravity Rock : Reach For The Sky (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: Fun and steep for grade.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Shunt Mouth (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: This one is really fun, and pretty clean, with harder moves but better rests than "Yesterday." I thought the crux was linking the first bolt to the third, after which the holds get better.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Truancy (5.11b/c PG13)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: This route and the one to the left need new anchors. The bolts look fine, but Truancy has one rusty shut and two SMC hangers with old tat through them without links/hardware. The route to the left has only a worn piece of static line through bolt hangers.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Costa Blanca : Sella
By: the schmuck When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: Hmmm...From the description it seems that there is hardly any climbing at Sella at all. Actually there are 100s of routes in a very cool canyon. The climbing is very nice old-school vertical and pocketty sport climbing, with modern glue-in hardware. Get a guide book and go. Sella was covered very well in the old Rockfax Costa Blanca guide.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Red Tag Sale (5.12b)
By: the schmuck When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: I got on this thing for the first time about 15 years ago or so, and my guide book has an annotation on how loose, dangerous and crappy red tag is. I finally got back on it this year, and was surprised at how well it cleaned up. This is actually a very fun route now.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : To Beer or Not to Beer (5.12)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Really fun. Short route with no super hard moves, but no easy moves either. Stupid anchor.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Against All Cobbs (5.12c)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Going to third bolt will get your attention, but not as bad as it seems. Don't let it keep you off this route. Best on Rad Wall IMO.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: the schmuck When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: My understanding that the access road is no longer open. We were there 3 weeks ago, and the gate was unlocked. A friend went by last week, and the gate was locked. When I called the gym and asked about the situation, I was informed that the gate is indeed permanently closed, but may be ocassionaly open at the owners' whim.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Finland Terrace : Divine Tiger (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 5, 2013

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Comments: Was told this was 10+, and by Homestead standards felt about right. Very fun and aesthetic at that grade.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : Watch Out For That Tree (5.12b)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 14, 2012

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Comments: Hardest 12b on the planet...Well bolted though.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: the schmuck When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Did the raps yesterday. Here is my take on it. To find the anchors for Great Escape, walk down, and slightly to right as you approach the cliff band, after which you need to scramble down a broken ramp extending into the canyon before you actually see the block on top of the route (we built two small cairns). If you head straight down to the cliff and the most obvious block, it is not the correct block.

When you rap from the top of the Yucca Flower Tower, rap with a 70m to the climber's left... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : The Hitchhiker (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: Not sure what to say. Either the Canadians, us, and the party that we spoke to afterwards all have short 70s, or you have a long 70. I even unclipped the draws on the lower, and still did not reach.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : When Cobbles Fly (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Okay route. A hard and awkward start to a very easy and rotten middle, to a short .11 bulge to finish. Start makes it 12-.


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