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Member Since: Feb 6, 2012
Last Visit: Jul 31, 2015
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Point Rank: # 3,837
Total Points: 134
Last Year: 52
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 359 | Routes 9 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 185 | Stars 92 | Ratings 29
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Face Melter Roof (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Outstanding, but I found this a little tougher to flash/onsight than cocaine rodeo. The top is thin, and kind of tough to read.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Spawn of Provo (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Actually thought that this was a little harder than Dr. Goodkind.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : Sodomizing Satan (5.11c/d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: It is called 11d, because the last move is like v5. The crimps are ridiculous, and the throw is super long, especially if short.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Kindling (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Good warm up. Wanders a little, but fun and worth doing.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Cactus Rose (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: VERY good route, but there is no way that the top bulge is 11c (felt like very painful V4 by itself, after resting on bolt).


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Tweedle Dum (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Pretty fun. Flows well, and may be a little on the soft side.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Now and Zen (5.10c/d)
By: the schmuck When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Not so great. Has some rotten rock, little flow, and probably a little harder than its neighbor to the right.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Graceland (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Not 11c. Probably 11d if tall and 12a if short. Has a short, reachy, and very powerful crux.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Trundle (5.10a/b PG13)
By: the schmuck When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: I think it somewhat cleaned up, as I did not find much choss. Climbs well, but the last two bolt placements make no sense.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Pubic Zirconium (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: I really like this thing, and the crux is actually pretty solid. It is hard from the last horizontal all the way to anchors. Not exactly the one move wonder that it has a reputation as.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Soluble Fish (5.11b/c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 23, 2015

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Comments: Nice route on good rock. 11- slab to an easy band, to a fairly hard roof crux. There is a completely pointless last bolt.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : No Future for the Timid (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 23, 2015

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Comments: Wow, sustained at 11a, eh? Thought it was harder than most of the 12a's I've been on at Shelf. It is a really nice route though.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Bashart (5.12c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Really good. Sustained in difficulty with some rests, but never super hard for the grade.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Unknown 2 (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Does have some fun climbing on it...and some choss. Last bolt to anchors felt pretty stout, but going left off of the bolt line kept things at grade.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Unknown 3 (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Greasy, awkward, and not fun.


Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Piedra Parada
By: the schmuck When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: Excellent updated guidebook is available in any climbing shop in Bariloche. May be available in Esquel also, and Mario has one that can be borrowed. Place is getting popular. Contrary to the post above, there is a well appointed gas station in Gualjaina, as well as a grocery store that sells a limited selection of vegetables and dairy, as well as a good selection of non-perishables. On the same street you will also find a panaderia, a carniceria and a vegetable store. Do not go shopping dur... more >>


Location: AR : Mount Magazine State Park : Crag Central : Right to Flight/ The Nose (5.9)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 25, 2014

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Comments: This protects like a sport route. Manage rope drag before pulling roof, and you will be fine. Unique and fun, but not super classic.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Return of the Headhunters (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: This rig deserves at least 3 stars. Very nice .10 climbing with a hard 11b crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts, I believe.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Sudden Impact (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: This one is really fun and worth doing. It is not nearly as sharp as Desert Pickle, but a bit steeper and more physical. Be careful going to the second bolt as the climbing is a little insecure, and there is no good stance to clip from until your right hand is on a good flat edge up and right of it. If you pitch going for that edge, you could deck without an attentive belay.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Edward Silverhands (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Route is okay, even kind of fun, but all three bolts have the old recalled Leeper hangers that have been known to fracture under body weight. The anchors are welded shuts with a bad case of galvanic corrosion. The hardware is definitely not safe.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Retirement Wall : The Stroke (5.11-)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: I thought the crux in the middle of this route was harder than anything on Golden Years. Really hard for 11a, or maybe just having a very, very bad day.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Timorus (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: This route is actually to the left of Special Forces. There is a decent 11b squeeze job between Timorous and Special Forces.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Pirate's Wall : Pirated (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Fun, fairly sustained, with a .11 crux in the middle and difficult moves to clip the anchors.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cameltrack Canyon
By: the schmuck When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: I and a buddy climbed here during our short stay in Santa Fe over the winter of 1993. We knew it as Butthole canyon, and all the routes/anchors existed then. (The fixed piece in the roof fingercrack is mine!) We had no idea who was responsible for these silly little routes :-).


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : Dragonslayer (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Going left on the headwall has bigger holds but is much more awkward. After I fell going left, I went right and felt much more solid.


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