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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: the schmuck When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: My understanding that the access road is no longer open. We were there 3 weeks ago, and the gate was unlocked. A friend went by last week, and the gate was locked. When I called the gym and asked about the situation, I was informed that the gate is indeed permanently closed, but may be ocassionaly open at the owners' whim.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Finland Terrace : Divine Tiger (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was told this was 10+, and by Homestead standards felt about right. Very fun and aesthetic at that grade.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : Watch Out For That Tree (5.12b)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hardest 12b on the planet...Well bolted though.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: the schmuck When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the raps yesterday. Here is my take on it. To find the anchors for Great Escape, walk down, and slightly to right as you approach the cliff band, after which you need to scramble down a broken ramp extending into the canyon before you actually see the block on top of the route (we built two small cairns). If you head straight down to the cliff and the most obvious block, it is not the correct block.
When you rap from the top of the Yucca Flower Tower, rap with a 70m to the climber's left... more >>
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : The Hitchhiker (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure what to say. Either the Canadians, us, and the party that we spoke to afterwards all have short 70s, or you have a long 70. I even unclipped the draws on the lower, and still did not reach.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : When Cobbles Fly (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay route. A hard and awkward start to a very easy and rotten middle, to a short .11 bulge to finish. Start makes it 12-.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Cragganmore : Sweet Peas (5.12b)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Downrated to 11d and called a warm-up in recent guide, this thing is a long enduro haul with one very good rest up high. No move is harder than 10+...and then it throws a V4 crux at you right before you clip the chains. If rated on last 2 moves, this is a solid 12- in my opinion.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : The Hitchhiker (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, but beware...A 70 meter rope does NOT reach the ground. A group of Canadians in front of us tried lowering with a 70, and the rope did not reach (about 15 feet short). Trusting MP, I thought that they had a short 70. I tried lowering with my 70, and was about 15 feet short, and had to yard back up to the mids (a pain in the ass). I was later told that the Hitchiker is 38m long, not 35m. Just be prepared to lower from the mids unless you have 80m.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Crescent Moon (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ditto for the above...I took several whips at the crux, and noticed only during cleaning that the bolt is coming out. Glad it stayed in. Fun route otherwise.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon
By: the schmuck When: Jun 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, was thinking the same thing. Anybody in the know about the fire?
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead
By: the schmuck When: Feb 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We'll be heading to Homestead sometime this month. I do not have a 4 wheel drive, but do have high clearance. I understand that there is about a 100 foot stretch that is impassable without 4WD. Does anyone know if it is possible to park and camp before this stretch? Also, how much of a hike would it be from the 4WD section? Thanks
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