Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Feb 6, 2012
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact the schmuck


Point Rank: # 4,625
Total Points: 82
Last Year: 31
Last 30 Days: 2
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has the schmuck been climbing?










Contributions


All 145 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 22 | Posts 82 | Stars 25 | Ratings 10
Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Truancy

5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

CO : Shelf Road : ... : Contest Wall

Mar 24, 2014

Endurance

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 110'

NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : The Shack / Standby Shack

Sep 10, 2013

unnamed2

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (6)

Sport, 60'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Finland Terrace

Feb 4, 2013

unnamed1

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (7)

Sport, 60'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Finland Terrace

Feb 4, 2013

Single Ladies

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (7)

Sport, 60'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Finland Terrace

Feb 4, 2013

Pannus Attack

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b (6)

Sport, 60'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Finland Terrace

Feb 4, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cameltrack Canyon
By: the schmuck When: Jul 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I and a buddy climbed here during our short stay in Santa Fe over the winter of 1993. We knew it as Butthole canyon, and all the routes/anchors existed then. (The fixed piece in the roof fingercrack is mine!) We had no idea who was responsible for these silly little routes :-).


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : Dragonslayer (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Going left on the headwall has bigger holds but is much more awkward. After I fell going left, I went right and felt much more solid.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Bridge Area : The Arraignment (5.11b/c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This would not be a bad route if not so filthy. The climbing is interesting, even good, but the entire rig is just coated with fine sand. More techy than pumpy. Please climb this so that it cleans up!


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Anti-Gravity Rock : Back to Zero (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: May not be as good as Groundwork, but it is a fantastic route.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Anti-Gravity Rock : Reach For The Sky (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun and steep for grade.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Shunt Mouth (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This one is really fun, and pretty clean, with harder moves but better rests than "Yesterday." I thought the crux was linking the first bolt to the third, after which the holds get better.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Truancy (5.11b/c PG13)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route and the one to the left need new anchors. The bolts look fine, but Truancy has one rusty shut and two SMC hangers with old tat through them without links/hardware. The route to the left has only a worn piece of static line through bolt hangers.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Costa Blanca : Sella
By: the schmuck When: Mar 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hmmm...From the description it seems that there is hardly any climbing at Sella at all. Actually there are 100s of routes in a very cool canyon. The climbing is very nice old-school vertical and pocketty sport climbing, with modern glue-in hardware. Get a guide book and go. Sella was covered very well in the old Rockfax Costa Blanca guide.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Red Tag Sale (5.12b)
By: the schmuck When: Jan 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I got on this thing for the first time about 15 years ago or so, and my guide book has an annotation on how loose, dangerous and crappy red tag is. I finally got back on it this year, and was surprised at how well it cleaned up. This is actually a very fun route now.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : To Beer or Not to Beer (5.12)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Really fun. Short route with no super hard moves, but no easy moves either. Stupid anchor.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Against All Cobbs (5.12c)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Going to third bolt will get your attention, but not as bad as it seems. Don't let it keep you off this route. Best on Rad Wall IMO.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: the schmuck When: Mar 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: My understanding that the access road is no longer open. We were there 3 weeks ago, and the gate was unlocked. A friend went by last week, and the gate was locked. When I called the gym and asked about the situation, I was informed that the gate is indeed permanently closed, but may be ocassionaly open at the owners' whim.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Finland Terrace : Divine Tiger (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Was told this was 10+, and by Homestead standards felt about right. Very fun and aesthetic at that grade.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : Watch Out For That Tree (5.12b)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 14, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Hardest 12b on the planet...Well bolted though.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: the schmuck When: Oct 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Did the raps yesterday. Here is my take on it. To find the anchors for Great Escape, walk down, and slightly to right as you approach the cliff band, after which you need to scramble down a broken ramp extending into the canyon before you actually see the block on top of the route (we built two small cairns). If you head straight down to the cliff and the most obvious block, it is not the correct block.

When you rap from the top of the Yucca Flower Tower, rap with a 70m to the climber's left... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : The Hitchhiker (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure what to say. Either the Canadians, us, and the party that we spoke to afterwards all have short 70s, or you have a long 70. I even unclipped the draws on the lower, and still did not reach.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : When Cobbles Fly (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Okay route. A hard and awkward start to a very easy and rotten middle, to a short .11 bulge to finish. Start makes it 12-.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Cragganmore : Sweet Peas (5.12b)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Downrated to 11d and called a warm-up in recent guide, this thing is a long enduro haul with one very good rest up high. No move is harder than 10+...and then it throws a V4 crux at you right before you clip the chains. If rated on last 2 moves, this is a solid 12- in my opinion.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : The Hitchhiker (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Good route, but beware...A 70 meter rope does NOT reach the ground. A group of Canadians in front of us tried lowering with a 70, and the rope did not reach (about 15 feet short). Trusting MP, I thought that they had a short 70. I tried lowering with my 70, and was about 15 feet short, and had to yard back up to the mids (a pain in the ass). I was later told that the Hitchiker is 38m long, not 35m. Just be prepared to lower from the mids unless you have 80m.


Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>