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Bohemian grove


Member Since: Jun 21, 2013
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact The Blueprint Part Dank


Point Rank: # 5,046
Total Points: 67
Last Year: 67
Last 30 Days: 2
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The Blueprint Part Dank

 
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All (297) | Routes | Areas | Photos (11) | Comments (12) | Posts (272) | Stars (1) | Ratings (1)
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Bohemian grove

Bohemian grove

The Blueprint Part Dank : Dankster

Mar 4, 2014

Warranty

Warranty

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD stance belay parka or Pa... : Post

Feb 27, 2014

Wall organizer

Wall organizer

Big Wall and Aid Climbing : First El Cap climb. The lit... : Post

Feb 26, 2014

Contrived ice

Contrived ice

The Blueprint Part Dank : Dankster

Feb 17, 2014

Venom

Venom

The Blueprint Part Dank : Dankster

Feb 12, 2014

Ice tool hack

Ice tool hack

The Blueprint Part Dank : Sugru

Jan 22, 2014

Sugru

Sugru

The Blueprint Part Dank : Sugru

Jan 22, 2014

The dies

The dies

Injuries and Accidents : Severe and Persistent Trice... : Post

Oct 22, 2013

You're out of bounds football cops

You're out of bounds football cops

The Blueprint Part Dank : Mile high

Oct 1, 2013

Charlet Ergo

Charlet Ergo

Ice Climbing : What picks will work for th...

Sep 27, 2013

Dolla dolla bill ya'll

Dolla dolla bill ya'll

The Blueprint Part Dank : Dankster

Jun 21, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada : BLM vs Bundy : Post : Photo
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Apr 12, 2014

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Comments: So absolutely true. "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants." --Thomas Jefferson


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: P2 is a little slice of Vedauwoo in Eldo, super rad hand jams all the way, some big, some small, I think the crux could be almost anywhere on the route depending on your hand size.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Flakes (5.9)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Super fun route. As the description says, you get two very distinct styles of climbing on the route. Above the Flakes, the face looks incredibly scary and runout, but as you climb up, bomber gear appears exactly when you need it. You aren't following a prominent feature, so if you get confused about where to go, remember to follow the path without any lichen on the face.

This route is one of my favorite single pitches in Eldo, it is not to be missed.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Little Eiger area - ice : Coors Light Exit Crack (WI3- M4+)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Hurry! Hurry! This super fun variation to Coors Lite is in fat right now. In my opinion, it was a bit more difficult and hence more fun than the actual second pitch of Coors Lite. I soloed the ice pitches on Saturday and saw this variation. I climbed up to the top of the little pillar but decided I didn't want to commit to the stemming without a partner and gear. So I downclimbed and did the actual second pitch of Coors Lite.

But this variation was calling me, so I found a partner and racked u... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Apparently this route has been significantly altered by some asshat with misplaced ethical scruples. See this thread for additional details. It sounds as if going to do this climb based on the beta given here would be incredibly ill-advised at this time,


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Fuzz (5.10 PG13)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: The "PG-13" start is obviated by a #6 Camalot. The placement is a bit flared, but you can place a #0.5 and #0.75 soon thereafter. The guidebook says to bring #4, and while I was able to place it at one point, it was quite over-cammed and not at all worth taking up route. I would bring more #2's instead. But ideally, you can snag some 2.5's. the upper crack only takes #2's well in a few constrictions you have to really look for, whereas a 2.5 would go pretty mu... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Way Nutter (5.9)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Such an awesome little route. Unusual for the Creek, this route has a few really nice hand and footholds to break up the crack climbing. I can't recommend this enough as an intro to OW climbing. I took 1 #3, 1 #4, 2 #5's and 1 #6 and placed them all. The second #5 is nice for the last moves, but not necessary.

I scratched out a small plaque with the route name and difficulty ("Way Nutter 5.9") and put it at the base so more folks will notice and climb this awesom... more >>


Location: PA : Delaware Water Gap NRA, PA : Dingmans Falls : Dingmans Falls (WI3+) : Photo
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Did you just climb the top? That bottom part looks ballsy as hell. If you didn't in those conditions, mad props. But even if you just did the top, with all that water running that's still not a feint-hearted thing,


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Rarely does a route live up to its hype in the way that this did, simply stunning in every way. Thought provoking, sustained, and varied on some of the best granite this side of Yosemite. Is it sandbagged? Probably. Should you care? Absolutely not. If you can place gear well and climb solid 5.9, you'll make it up and down safely. It just may not be super pretty.

I also agree with the suggestion to lead P2 and P3 in a block. Build your belay in the bird poop pod, and have your second build a bel... more >>


Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Eldo reopening : Post : Photo
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: That's really pretty, sad. But pretty


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Ellingwood Ledges car to car is no big deal, it makes for a fairly mellow day. If you're looking for a really good day, do the Ledges into the Needle to Peak traverse. And if you wanna be really full value, backtrack from the Summit of Crestone Peak to the South, and take the sandstone gully that drops down to the west side of the peak and hike over Broken Hand Pass and back to your car.

My recommended rack is a single set of stoppers with single set of cams from #0.5-#2. Bring 8 s... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: I found the route to be no harder than 5.6. However, I wouldn't recommend it to the average 5.6 trad leader simply because the gear at the anchors was anything but straightforward. It took a lot of creativity to make bomb proof belays. A #4 C4 would have been nice for the belay at the top of P3.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: BLM vs BundyNevadaThe Blueprint Part Dank2 days ago
re: BLM vs BundyNevadaThe Blueprint Part Dank2 days ago
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