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Member Since: Jun 29, 2004
Last Visit: Oct 10, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,796
Total Points: 330
Last Year: 90
Last 30 Days: 0
24 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 327 | Routes | Areas | Photos 53 | Page Improvements | Comments 65 | Posts 200 | Stars 4 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Footloose (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Sep 15, 2005

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Comments: I remember it feeling like 10a, then another time I crossed the diagonalling roof at a different spot and it felt harder. It really depends on where you decide to step over. I think finding little crystals for the right hand helps in groveling over the high foot. Really just 1-2 moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: TBlom When: Jul 13, 2005

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Comments: Old school grading... not for beginners who aren't very strong, placing gear from the greasy body smears and foot jams is exciting. I faced left side into the crack, right palm smearing on the right side of the dihedral. Reminds me of [Yosemite].


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Jul 7, 2005

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Comments: I have been quoted, but my post has been removed. I know there is already an anchor there. That is why some people don't see the need for another one...duh. anyway I thought that my comment was fairly simple and to the point, that it would be more popular as a toprope if it had bolted anchors. and that some parties hoping to lead the climb may experience more of a wait than usual because of the ease of TRing this route with bolts. either way, I'll use whatever is there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Jul 4, 2005

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Comments: no offense, but what does an unroped accident have to do with this route? I have found bail booty on [Blind Faith], which is indicative of someone rapping off from the top of the first pitch. unroping is a personal decision, free soloing in [Eldo] is another altogether.

I think [Chockstone] will become crowded as a top rope if there are rap anchors installed


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Jun 30, 2005

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Comments: I guess I could understand having rap anchors here, just because the upper pitches look bad, The time I was there I didn't see many people continuing past the first pitch. Do you think this might turn into an overused toprope though? further causing confusion and arguments about what the anchor should be used for.

P.S. I'm all for removing the bolts at the end of pitch one on [Bastille Crack], what a waste and an obvious visual distraction, there would be no bolts at all on the whole route wi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9)
By: TBlom When: Jun 27, 2005

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Comments: We did pitch one, then continued up and right on chossy terrain to the big tree with the horizontal section, easy fifth class all in one lead. This put us at the base of Sunrider and the Upstairs Dihedral. After the dihedral(9), we got to toprope Sunrider, which feels really exposed for a toprope. Very cool link up which let another party do Heavy Weather while we were on our upper pitches.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : The Cruise (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Jun 27, 2005

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Comments: We were going to try this one, but did the start and said "no way, Jose", ended up doing Upstairs Dihedral instead, which is much more direct to the anchors. Maybe not R or S rated, but it sure looks like a bad fall if you mess up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Seein' Double (5.11a)
By: TBlom When: Jun 20, 2005

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Comments: Tried to toprope this line and kept running into holds on "Thrill of the Chaise". I wonder how many ascents a year this route sees. Bolts 2.5 feet away diagonally from bolts on "Thrill" kind of just cluttered up a good trad/mixed area. Can't wait to lead Dementia with some bolts clipped though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Sunrider (5.11c)
By: TBlom When: Jun 18, 2005

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Comments: Fun TR after doing heavy weather-upstairs dihedral. Just glad to make it to the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : No Doze (5.12c)
By: TBlom When: Jun 15, 2005

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Comments: Welcome to the Sport Park, this is the place to go to grab your "hardest" ascents. I still think some of the routes are fun despite the grading/chipping etc.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Sleepless in Boulder (5.11a/b)
By: TBlom When: Jun 8, 2005

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Comments: Is the climb still around 11a without the block?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Mr. Sandman (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Jun 8, 2005

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Comments: very nice warmup, not too bolted. Go straight at the last bolt, undercling the upside down horn and reach for the jug by the anchors, then move left. I tried it both ways, seems about the same difficulty but going straight up is more fun. down below is just balance, trust your sticky rubber.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: TBlom When: Mar 17, 2005

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Comments: I think it's silly that there aren't more mixed sport/trad routes in Boulder Canyon. The rock is very fitting for it, with some cracks and some faces. I know there are some crack-routes around that have bolts, with the argument that "it is a sport area, and some people wouldn't know to bring gear" and there are trad routes that are run out because no one wants them to be mixed seems silly. I've been to sport areas where cracks are left alone, and discontinuous routes become "mixed" with some ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: TBlom When: Oct 29, 2004

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Comments: I've always connected pitch 4 and 5, if you use long runners, a 60m rope will get you from the hand traverse, just barely to the notch after Rebuffat's Arete. Really airy and a cool 200 ft pitch. Make sure to save some finger sized stuff for the anchor if you go this way. (I think I used nuts where possible on the arete to save cams for the anchor) Nuts will probably work as well(or better). Also, if you connect the two, make sure you still have your rope ends, and that the rope is not involv... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : The Big Chill (5.10c)
By: TBlom When: Oct 18, 2004

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Comments: P.S. you can also jam the crack insead of laybacking.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : The Big Chill (5.10c)
By: TBlom When: Oct 18, 2004

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Comments: we did this route once sticking to the face , and once in the crack. I think the crack is overall steeper/more pumpy, but the face is more thin. The upper just follows the crack pretty much, but I remember great pockets higher up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : College Drop Out aka East F... (5.7)
By: TBlom When: Oct 4, 2004

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Comments: Last year, I was able to do this route in 4X200ft pitches. If you start from the East Bench, and go towards the tree, instead of belaying there keep going until you run out of rope (hopefully finding an anchor). Stretch the next pitch out, too. The end of the third pitch put me at the top of the U, with a belay at a small perch (move left slightly). This belay was the first gear in about 60-70 feet, keep going, you'll find it, but only if you pushed the first two pitches as far as you can. Th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over and Out (5.8)
By: TBlom When: Sep 13, 2004

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Comments: If you do the upper pitch of Over the Hill or the dihedral to the left, there is a very quick descent to the north along the ledge system. Go about 150 feet N, when the ledge begins to go back upwards, look for an easy downclimb (4th class); 1 or 2 moves gets you to safe ground. I think the whole descent took about 5 minutes, the quickest I've ever had in Eldo. The finger crack is awesome with good stances before the cruxes; exciting moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: TBlom When: Sep 11, 2004

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Comments: I guess we've always done the start from Great Zot instead of the real start. pretty cool jamcrack , just a few feet away to the right through a bulge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: TBlom When: Sep 11, 2004

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Comments: I've only done the east slabs descent once, in the dark. But I think it sucks. It is like downclimbing a flatiron with better holds. you can walk off well to the north, and then backtrack (s.west)down the gully to the base, similar to the descent from rewritten, you can either downclimb class 4 or make one rap and walk the rest. The slabs will basically put you at the parking lot which is most likely not where your stash is.

I don't consider myself a gumby(well maybe), but gumbies certainly... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: TBlom When: Sep 11, 2004

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Comments: We found a tri-cam placement for the opening moves on the direct start. There is a disintegrating pocket that will hold the small pink tri-cam. It will only protect you for the first few moves though, until you get to some cam placements higher up. I bounce tested the placement (200 lbs.) and it held, although a lead fall would probably blow it. Anyway, the direct start is much cooler than the traverse in, doesn't feel much harder, and is like a boulder problem until you get a few pieces in. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: TBlom When: Sep 11, 2004

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Comments: I've led this line a couple of times and found that if you have a 60m rope, you can almost reach the Red Ledge and get a somewhat decent belay in some blocky munge. From here a short simul, or easy 3-4th class stretch brings you to the eye bolts. Take the third pitch as described. With long slings(really long) and thoughtful gear, and a 60m rope, you can link pitch 4 and 5 and just barely get to the top of the pillar (Rebuffat's Arete). From here a very short pitch with good pro goes to the ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Slender Fungus (5.10c)
By: TBlom When: Sep 9, 2004

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Comments: I tried to link the two pitches and was shut down at the upper crux... So close! I think the upper move felt about like 11a, but was really pumpy after doing the rest of the route. maybe next trip. If you can keep thugging upward a jug appears right before the anchors.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: TBlom When: Aug 29, 2004

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Comments: We climbed here [Aug. 22], saw one other party. We didn't see any signage that the climbing was closed, just a no trespassing sign on the other side of the river. Fun slabs with lots of bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Free Willie (5.11a)
By: TBlom When: Aug 29, 2004

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Comments: Last time I did this route the block with the X held my 200 lbs. Going from the block then up right to the jug Tony mentions above, you do not have to mantle or belly flop (both of which I tried on my non-onsight). Pretty easy if you trust the block (or the bolts). You can rest in the mungy stuff off left before the crux ending, or stay to the right and make it more direct. Pretty cool way to air out yer ass for sure.


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