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Member Since: Jun 29, 2004
Last Visit: Aug 10, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,759
Total Points: 330
Last Year: 90
Last 30 Days: 0
24 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 326 | Routes | Areas | Photos 53 | Page Improvments | Comments 65 | Posts 199 | Stars 4 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Peak : Southeast Buttress (5.6)
By: TBlom When: Jul 10, 2008

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Comments: Very cool climb and spectacular summit. We climbed the right side-ish, over many crystal studded faces, and avoided the chimney traffic jam by climbing a 5.7(?) hand/fist crack about 15' to the right. We were able to pass several parties and do the route in 4 near-rope-length pitches (w/a 70 M rope). I had a double rack, and of course had gear left over, but found placements for everything from nuts to 4" cam.
The walk-off was pretty easy after finding the way down the back slabs (kind of a ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Kor-Beck (5.9)
By: TBlom When: Jun 28, 2008

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Comments: The belay/rap anchors at the top of the 4th pitch have wobbly bolts! They look new, but when I weighted them , the left one flexed in its hole. The right bolt seemed more solid, but both had loose nuts. It held my 200 lbs on the rap, but I was reticent to shock load or bounce at all on the rap.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variat... (5.9)
By: TBlom When: May 25, 2008

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Comments: Beware that if you take this alternate (and polished) start to Nutcracker, you may be passed by parties on the real (and much easier) 1st pitch. This is what has kept me from climbing the rest of the route, got to the first belay to find that some Frenchies had already nabbed the belay, we bailed off because we didn't want to wait behind them (after they obviously scrambled to beat us to the belay).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: TBlom When: May 2, 2008

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Comments: i think I places 7 #2 camalots, and maybe a #1 at the start. Easier than it looks if you have huge man hands (felt cruiser to me).
10a!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Redlined (5.11b/c)
By: TBlom When: May 2, 2008

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Comments: This route may have gotten slightly harder over the last 9 years. There is a big move off of a deteriorating hold that accesses the arete. I was able to do this in '99, but couldn't last time I tried! (maybe I'm in worse shape, who knows?).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Enchanted Porkfist (5.11a)
By: TBlom When: May 2, 2008

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Comments: Uhhhhh.... I was pretty pumped, but this climb has some really cool improbable holds. 11a.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: TBlom When: May 2, 2008

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Comments: Shelf Road is dog friendly for the same reason it is bolt friendly. Yay for public lands! Dogs are not welcome at National Parks, and Boulder's open space is full of weird restrictions (for dogs and bolts). I think the last thing we need is a heavily regulated Shelf Road.

Unruly dog owners and their unruly dogs should definitely be checked, but should all dog owners be banned from bringing their dogs because of a few bad dogs(or owners)?

Personally I don't trust anyone that doesn't like... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: TBlom When: Apr 23, 2008

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Comments: Lots of fun, the start looks intimidating but is pretty solid. A small RP can back up the pin and a blue Alien/blue TCU can be found at the ledge before getting to the first bolt. It is also pretty easy to clip the first bolt and downclimb for a rest.
This was my hardest redpoint and onsight in Eldo to date, felt easier than some 10s though. I'd like to call it 11a, but other routes of the same grade seem harder (first p. Genesis, Vertigo, C'est La Vie). People who haul overhanging jugs at t... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter...
By: TBlom When: Apr 17, 2008

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Comments: You people are absolutely MAD! It looks like vertical kitty litter... Those pillars only exist because the capstone blocks rainfall from eroding the softer underlayers; basically some soft sheit!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : The Cookie-Right (5.9)
By: TBlom When: Apr 3, 2008

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Comments: My first real gear lead, of course I was sandbagged into it, there's really not that much pro at all, just a bunch of full body chimneying. Be ready for 20ft.+ of chimneying before getting pro. This happens about 3 times. Bring a few cams, leave the hexs at home! This route is very old school, bring the cajones.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: TBlom When: Apr 3, 2008

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Comments: Not that you should, but the top of the pedestal is a pretty sweet bivy if you want to beat all the other climbers to it in the morning. Finding it in the dark was a royal beeatch (10 years ago). It's nice not having to trudge up there in the morning, and you get a bit more rest. Watch out for flamboyant, ego fed, speed-climber/guides trying to beat you on the 50 crowded variation with their clients(in approach shoes, the bastard!). The guide beat us to the belay, but his clients sucked and ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Moby Dick (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Apr 3, 2008

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Comments: I have huge hands, so I never really considered the upper part as part of the crux, for me it was just getting off the ground. I fell on a #2 metolius cam, right about where the crack opens up enough to jam. I believe two ropes for the rap off the other side, nice and airy. Left side of Moby DIck looks Heinous for the grade.

P.S. I don't remember there being huge boulders stacked at the base of the route! But that was 10 years ago.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : The Falls (5.10a R)
By: TBlom When: Dec 24, 2007

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Comments: When I did this route (maybe 1996?) The last bolt wasn't installed, it was more like a 25 ft. runout to the top. I tried to go straight up some thin crimps and blew the mantle topout, took a nice 50+ footer onto what was then the last bolt. I think it was a bit easier to do a move left to finish (just keep your balance!).

Otherwise, I remember the start being "sporty" but not that hard to boulder out. It's been a bit, but we felt it was 10a (just feels scary without clipping first). Maybe ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli...
By: TBlom When: Dec 24, 2007

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Comments: After learning to climb around here, I moved to Colorado... I would definitely recommend leaving the Bay Area if you want to be a climber.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Johnny Cat (5.11+)
By: TBlom When: Oct 14, 2007

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Comments: managed to hangdog and leapfrog cams while doing the moves on this one. the jams were tight as hell for me! Definitely fun for the large handed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Oct 14, 2007

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Comments: I went back recently, and I have to admit that the sling anchor is total sheit. Perhaps a bolt anchor would be better than the decaying slings and rock mass.

p.s. careful for the "chockstone"


Location: Urban Climber Buys Climbing...
By: TBlom When: Jan 16, 2007

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Comments: My man Rich tellin' it straight!

I'll catch yer ass anytime!


Location: Urban Climber Buys Climbing...
By: TBlom When: Jan 15, 2007

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Comments: I personally don't understand why anyone would want to urbanize climbing. Climbing and Rock and Ice have already given in to the use of slang I don't even understand(i.e. urban slang). The content has largely turned to crap, articles where top climbers make fun of other climbers, talk about "makin' millions" and who is cool do nothing for climbing as a sport. Call me closed minded, but when did hip-hop/urban/graffiti culture have anything to do with climbing? Furthermore, why would I want su... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: TBlom When: Nov 11, 2006

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Comments: Not 10c, not runout but very good and worth checking it out, maybe 10a/b.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: TBlom When: Jul 2, 2006

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Comments: Totally sweet...combined 1 and 2, just watch for rope drag. It's not a bad climb, just an out of fashion climb!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Empor (5.7+)
By: TBlom When: Jul 2, 2006

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Comments: The quickest way is to climb from next to the boulder, and link all the pitches finishing with the right angle crack in one long lead. A 60m works fine. Also, you can rappel from the 5.0 slot all the way to the ground by dropping right from the route. This only takes one 60m rope, but make sure to tie the ends, you will be at them when you step off! If you're worried about weather coming in, this is the quickest ascent (other than solo or simul).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Empor (5.7+)
By: TBlom When: Jul 2, 2006

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Comments: Hi, left a bail anchor in the 5.0 slot during a T-storm, if you'd like to return it call 303-725-0283 or email me!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock
By: TBlom When: Jul 2, 2006

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Comments: Hello, the current tyrolean traverse at Cob is not very good. Most likely you will get a bit wet, also establishing yourself on the line is not very easy with a pack on. Any old beater ropes out there? Also I left a rap anchor about 100 ft. up in the 5.0 gully when we bailed in a lightning storm. If you feel like returning it pls. call 303-725-0283!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Eldora : Hessie : Hessie Chimney (WI4 M5)
By: TBlom When: Jan 13, 2006

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Comments: I used your comment as an excuse to skin up 4th of July Rd. The chimney has ice but I wouldn't call it fat, it looks discontinuous in a few spots. Probably only need hiking boots for most of the approach, although maybe snow shoes to get to the base. Lots of snow on the ledges. Eager to hear how it was after you climb it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Oct 21, 2005

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Comments: I followed this in 98 and fell. led it in 2003 and fired the whole thing. Just make sure to rest well before the crux and don't hang out in the middle of it for too long. I think the start to the upper pitch is just as hard if not more as you need to place pro from an overhanging stance. Wonder when I'll get the nerve to do it again...


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