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Member Since: Jun 29, 2004
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 1,829
Total Points: 330
Last Year: 45
Last 30 Days: 0
24 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 332 | Routes | Areas | Photos 53 | Page Improvements | Comments 65 | Posts 205 | Stars 4 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Slender Fungus (5.10c)
By: TBlom When: Sep 9, 2004

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Comments: I tried to link the two pitches and was shut down at the upper crux... So close! I think the upper move felt about like 11a, but was really pumpy after doing the rest of the route. maybe next trip. If you can keep thugging upward a jug appears right before the anchors.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: TBlom When: Aug 29, 2004

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Comments: We climbed here [Aug. 22], saw one other party. We didn't see any signage that the climbing was closed, just a no trespassing sign on the other side of the river. Fun slabs with lots of bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Free Willie (5.11a)
By: TBlom When: Aug 29, 2004

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Comments: Last time I did this route the block with the X held my 200 lbs. Going from the block then up right to the jug Tony mentions above, you do not have to mantle or belly flop (both of which I tried on my non-onsight). Pretty easy if you trust the block (or the bolts). You can rest in the mungy stuff off left before the crux ending, or stay to the right and make it more direct. Pretty cool way to air out yer ass for sure.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Dyno Monkey (5.12b)
By: TBlom When: Aug 29, 2004

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Comments: The only 12 I've ever been to the anchors on. Sport Park is also home of the only 11d I've redpointed. Oh well, still had a great time on the route. A fun TR because no one gets to dog around after they fall off. I love huge jugs up overhangs, too bad they are man made. I'll do it again for sure though.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hey Good Lookin' (5.11d)
By: TBlom When: Aug 27, 2004

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Comments: Nice place to catch some air, not too hard to hang dog your way through. Hopefully I will redpoint it some day. Back cleaning was interesting but not impossible. I rapped and had my belayer pull me towards the wall to clean. Watch for sharp edges as you snap back and forth though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: TBlom When: Aug 22, 2004

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Comments: I thought all of the routes were sandbagged here. Nothing new. Glad to hear it's easier than Green Spur though, I thought that was a cool onsight. Can't wait to try it. thanks for the pro advice.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: TBlom When: Aug 21, 2004

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Comments: We did upper Ruper in two pitches, we linked 4 and 5 into a 190ft pitch, really cool to be on lead that long. I used a ton of long runners, got to the roof and got to belay in the shade. My partner then got to climb the whole upper Ruper in one shot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Dementia (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Aug 21, 2004

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Comments: I used two #2 Metolius cams at the crux. You can equilize a few nuts at the last ledge stance (medium to small I think). I remember using a #3 Metolius after the crux. I got the stem move (5'11"), You can reach way out and do a palm smear, then swing your left leg out to stem. I also found good footholds on the overhanging (right) side of the book. I onsighted this but fell on Cosmosis, I guess they're both around 10a, Cosmosis is just much more sustained. This was one of my f... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Seein' Double (5.11a)
By: TBlom When: Aug 21, 2004

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Comments: I've always enjoyed "Thrill". I had no idea it was a trad route, but I usually augment the route with a few cams (it's pretty exciting if you only bring quickdraws). This new route seems a bit close to "Thrill", kind of like some of the grid bolting at Sport Park. I've noticed that most of the bolts at Happy Hour see very little traffic, as most people there choose to do the trad routes instead. I will most likely enjoy the route, all the same.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: TBlom When: Aug 14, 2004

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Comments: Thanks for the suggestions, I will look up those routes and try to get to them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: TBlom When: Aug 13, 2004

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Comments: I am Jealous. I can't lead 11a trad. At least not safely or with confidence. I have attempted grandmothers challenge twice, sat after the pod twice, but cruised to the top after. I have onsighted most of the 10a pitches I have led in eldo though. My favorite was Yellow Spur. I got Grandmother's on TR when I wasn't placing gear or hauling two ropes(I'm trying for the 200ft pitch). I generally climb 11a sport in Boulder Canyon, and onsighted or got 2nd try a few 11a's at Animal World. I hav... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.9+)
By: TBlom When: Aug 6, 2004

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Comments: I took a fall trying to place gear at the crux about 5 years ago (my first trad whip). After getting my head together I realized that if you make 1 or two more moves past the crux, a good dropknee/stem can be found with your left foot on the jug you just passed, which lets you place gear pretty easily. It's nice to know that you can get in gear at the crux, but if 5.9 is your trad limit, it will be very pumpy to place gear there. The piece I fell on was a #3 Black Diamond nut, it held a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon
By: TBlom When: Jul 22, 2004

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Comments: Bruce Pech and I replaced the rotting tyrolean traverse at Avalon last week. The new version is very simple, two strands cross the creek, both strands are tied with figure eight knots at both ends to two separate bolts on each side (four total). The two lines are kept together by an overhand knot on the road side, this side has very little extra rope involved. The other side of the creek (cliff side)has more rope involved,in a series of fisherman's knots. As this line is used and abused, lef... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: TBlom When: Jul 15, 2004

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Comments: Anyone know about the route immediately left of Wrinkles, it doesn't seem to match Rossiter's guide, though the next route left seems to. Really slabby, with a steep start out of the gully. Maybe 11a, 10d. lots of nice bolts. Need a 60m rope to get back to the ground (just right).


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Shiek Yer Bouti (5.11d)
By: TBlom When: Jul 15, 2004

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Comments: I guess a few extra placements would be nice, although I felt safe without. The whipper is pretty clean if you don't get the clip before the crux. Great route to log some air time on. Has an old school feel to it, not over bolted.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Shiek Yer Bouti (5.11d)
By: TBlom When: Jul 12, 2004

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Comments: I haven't redpointed this route yet, and no one agrees on ratings so lets just say it feels hard. The first crux at the first bolt doesn't seem so hard, kind of bouldery. Clipping at the upper crux is kind of tough but there is a good lay back hold out right. Big wipper if you screw up, this is not a Sport Park job. There is a bolt before the 5.10 at the top, not too bad but weird climbing. hopefully I'll figure out how to redpoint this thing. I've only succesfully led 11d once (at Sport Par... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: TBlom When: Jun 29, 2004

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Comments: I love this climb because it's the right size for me. This is where I get back at my buddies who lead thin cracks. I watch them struggle with way too many feet of 4"+ jamming.This is the climb for the 200 pounder! I'm surprised more people don't go to the tree in one pitch, or at least over the roof before starting the next pitch. I have attempted this route twice, I'm hoping #3 is the charm. I have wondered if the crux would be easier if the 2nd pitch started right below the crux, yet... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: TBlom When: Jun 29, 2004

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Comments: Let's remember that at one point in time, there was no such thing as a 5.11. This used to be a .6 out of a possible .10. It now gets a 5.7 rating because we all love Eldorado and it's own personal stiff rating system. Sure I'll lead .11d at sport park. But I'm still shut down above .10a at Eldo. That's just the way the cookie crumbles. We are using the "Yosemite decimal system". Try leading the first pitch of "After Six" in Yosemite Valley. This pitch used to be considered 5.6, and it n... more >>


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