Comments: I thought this was one of the more involving, fun and varied leads I did this summer. Lower third could definitely use some laps and wire brush love.
Gear and rock was definitely better on the upper two thirds of the route. Seemed that the piece I wanted to place at any given time was the one I had just used...anyways bring slings or else the rope drag can be horrendous.
Three stars for length and variety of climbing if it gets a bit of traffic. Agreed with beta for placing gear right o... more >>
Comments: This should be included in Interior Alaska/Alaska Range, perhaps under a new Parks Highway/Nenana River area along with Fox, Dragonfly, and Jack River. For a more comprehensive guide check out www.alaskaiceclimbing.com/
Comments: Old anchors replaced with 3/8 bolts and new hangers 8/12.
If anything this climb is nice to set a TR on for those waiting to get on Teenage Wasteland when in a larger group. Start a few feet to the left for the lower half of the climb for a fun 5.7 variation.