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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Upper Town Wall : The Black Sea : Gods Bones (5.11+) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo. Crappy route description.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Inner Walls : Notch, cave side (SW) : China Syndrome (5.11a) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Way rad! Does this go straight up?
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Location: UT : Ibex
By: tenesmus When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, I get to do what I wanna do.
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Location: GA : Dug Mountain Dalton, GA
By: tenesmus When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I grew up in Dalton and always wondered what was up there. Seems like there would be a ton of hidden gems around there.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Flake Variation (5.8 R) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: better yet, a little foldable handsaw.
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Location: UT : Ibex
By: tenesmus When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I couldn't disagree more. There are plenty of problems under v4 that are super fun. The cow bolder alone has at least 8 problems under v3. And if you aren't bouldering that hard, just go climb routes...
Better yet, its way too far to drive. And its always windy. And sandy. Super sandy! Too hot too.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Chollo (5.10d)
By: tenesmus When: Apr 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Drew and I added an alternate start. Drilled and cleaned on lead with 3 bolts leaving the ledge and traversing the awesome rail to a little notch more in line with the finger crack.
Its for short people and called 'Shihollo'.
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Location: UT : Ibex : Corral Crags : Ewe For Real Wall : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you don't say so yourself.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love the glimpse of light emerging on the buttress in the background!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Comanche Ridge (NW Ridge of... : Southwest Ridge, Comanche P... (5.10+ R)
By: tenesmus When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks super cool! So psyched someone is putting up a line or two in there. So much of the Redwall is utter choss but obviously there is boundless potential.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Memorial Day Buttress : Dave Anderson Memorial Rout... (5.8+ A2- PG13)
By: tenesmus When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Burl. Mike Perkins figured out but I haven't yet.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Memorial Day Buttress : Dave Anderson Memorial Rout... (5.8+ A2- PG13)
By: tenesmus When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice send Ian. Its super fun and although I haven't sent its nice to have an extra couple of small to medium pieces.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Chollo (5.10d)
By: tenesmus When: Jan 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Drew kept telling me to drop my heels. I kept asking, "WTF do you mean, 'drop my heels'? I'm trying to do that!" So I went back to the basics and climbed the Wasatch's other finger crack (ie, the Coffin) with the explicit intent of learning how to drop my heels. Drew was texting me between burns, "No really Clay, DROP. YOUR. HEELS."
[begin blog]Everyone who climbs cracks tells you to do this and of course it totally works. When you let your heels fall below your toes the rubber... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jan 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to clarify El Pipedream finishes on Chollo at a two bolt anchor.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Pipe Dream (5.11b)
By: tenesmus When: Jan 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been looking at this line for years, imagining that it would go with natural gear and clean all the way through. So psyched it takes mostly natural gear and tons of it. The bottom crack is super fun - especially as it arcs delicately to the left and then cuts back right on jugs and nobs. The physicality of the .11 lower crux was far easier for me than the .10 finger crack of El Chollo. Many thanks to Drew for patiently awaiting me to figure out the easy part.
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Location: bsmoot : Kayaking : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Dec 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What? Trying to keep a little left off Big Bertha?
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit... : Trilobite Tower : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome topo!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Daisy (5.10)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The defacto warm up. Its a lot easier the second time and very consistent with the hold size and shape and movement on the rest of the wall. A budding .10 leader might struggle the first lap but climbing this will make you learn how to move around. Very safe lead. Also, its nice to ring a cam or two for an anchor on the belay ledge.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Touchy Subject (5.11c)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you watch your partner lead it first you'll see where the good holds are and make this a super high flow jug-to-jug-fest. Its cool when you can turn your hips and skip the hard holds! Also, its not necessary but nice to have a cam or two for the belay.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Depth of Field (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a lot like the 'less steep' part of Right Pile in that there are a ton of holds all over it and choosing the right ones is the crux. The climbing is super fun and well worth taking the time to suss out.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Creaking Plank (5.9)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not gonna lie, the coolest thing about climbing choss is that you have tons of huge holds. The bottom looks like crap but it climbs really well. This is about 50 times more fun than Hollow Man and only 10 more minutes up the trail. If only the crowds knew...
Bring long runners. The upper faces are super cool too.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Major Tom (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is pretty dang fun. Cool arete surfing with gear where you don't have bolts or to move safely between them. Careful not to get yourself too bunched up in the crux. Nice moves on great rock.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : White Lines (5.12c/d)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Likely, not. :) I sure as hell tried a bunch but never could send it that way. No doubt it made it feel a hell of a lot less stressful and more like a sport climb to work it on pinkpoint. But started placing and cleaning the gear when we got serious about sending.
Now for the Riiight Line...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : White Lines (5.12c/d)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The feedback is this is .12d to onsite and .12c to redpoint.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Wonderette (5.12) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks burly! Nice topo and photo of the summit wall.
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