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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Teleman When: Apr 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the route 4/21/2006. Bivied just below Chasm Lake. Left the tent at the leisurely hour of 8 am and was back the tent packing up at noon.
The route is in very good shape. You can walk across Chasm Lake to the base of the route. Some ice at all of the constrictions with 10-12 ft of grade 3 ice at the end. Mixed sections were good, but thin. Simul climbed the entire route except two of the mixed sections.
Gear: Three cams (.75, 1, and 2), a few nuts and two short and one medium screw ... more >>
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Visionaries (5.10c)
By: Teleman When: Apr 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is classic beautiful Prophecy Wall face climbing. P2 is worth doing. A few crack moves, but not much crack. If you are solid 10 leader you could lead it with only a couple of draws, but would recommend taking a couple of cams in the Metolius .5-1 range.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Last Rites (5.10+)
By: Teleman When: Apr 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad to see someone identify this route. Climbed it a couple of years ago not knowing for sure what it was and definitely thought it was on the up-side of 10. Fun boulder start and tricky transition to thin crack. It was clear that this is a rarely done climb. Once you are in the crack you are smearing on fairly featureless sandstone that has been further challenged by a very thin layer of lichen. Route is worth doing just to be in the canyon.
Would agree on gear recommendations.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Namaste (5.12a)
By: Teleman When: Apr 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I onsighted this climb 11/03, and even though I think it is a spectacular sport route, and would like to accept the 12a rating, I just did't think it matached up with other 12's in the area (Zion or St. George). If you have good endurance and can hold on to 10b holds for 150 feet it is all yours.
P.S. the first bolted route to the left (10a/b)is a great warm up for either Hueco's or Namaste.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Circus Wall : Roar of the Greasepaint (5.10a)
By: Teleman When: Apr 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 (10a)is significantly more interesting and committing than P1 (10a)on Living on the Edge. It involves some slab skill and the willingness to take a little pendulum swing if you screw up moving right after (I think) bolt #3.I felt more comfortable leading P2 on Living On the Edge and even though I have climbed may harder routes will admit to a sense of relief upon reaching the anchors cleanly.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Near Mount Carmel Tunnel : The Headache (5.10+)
By: Teleman When: Apr 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't do this climb unless you love to jam!Just did this route 4/16/04 and found it to contain more quality climbing per pitch than anything I can remember any where. Right off the deck you have in your face hand jamming that just leads in to all forms of jams. It is good to remember how to do a face move or two, since every pitch requires at some point that you step a little outside the crack to gain a move.I had no beta going in to this climb other than bring a lot of gear. The #3.5 M... more >>
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Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Aftershock Wall : Living On The Edge (5.10c)
By: Teleman When: Apr 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have done this climb several times and still find it interesting, varied and fun. If you skip P3 you are missing a unique and delicate pitch. The right traverse moves almost off the deck will test your smoothness and faith in friction.
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