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Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby : Crazy Diamond (WI4+)
By: Ted Sumers When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: i think 4+ is a huge sandbag, even for willoughby! i climbed this in thin(ish) conditions; lead the first pitch (would give it wi4) and followed the second (easily wi5, maybe 5+). i'd followed glass menagerie a few days earlier and think this was substantially harder-- while glass menagerie had more sustained steep ice, it was also stemmable, whereas the crux pillar on diamond was super thin, straight vertical, and marginally protectable at best.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs : Fafnir (WI5+) : Photo
By: Ted Sumers When: Feb 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: interesting, we wound up going up the pillar and then traversing right over thin ice and mixed terrain. i think we might've linked back up with the regular finish but it's hard to say.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Holts Ledge : Battle of the bulge, aka:Ja... (WI3)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: also i think this is "jaws"
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Holts Ledge
By: Ted Sumers When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: johnny, i find a lot of the route descriptions confusing despite having been here a lot, but i think "right tree gully" is in fact Scottish gully?
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Holts Ledge : Battle of the bulge, aka:Ja... (WI3)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: there's sometimes a pillar that touches down on this route; named the "sword of damocles"
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Kinsman Notch : The Beast (WI4+)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jan 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the approach beta here is wrong.
when you walk towards the Kinsman ice from the road, this is LEFT of the main area. after you make it up to the base of the main area, turn left and go about 100 yards past Leprechaun's Lament. My partner and I wound up bushwhacking about 300 yards in the wrong direction the first time we tried to find this...
great climb though, well worth the walk over from the rest of the Kinsman ice. did in a single pitch with 60m doubles-- bit of a rope stretcher but defin... more >>
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