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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Newfound Lake : Blood line (WI3)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: climbed this on a super plastic day with hero ice, definitely felt like easy WI3. incredibly fun nonetheless-- one of my favorite pitches all season.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Main Cliff Left--Venus Wall : The Cave Route (WI3)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: i traversed left to the anchors of some sport climb at the top.
this is probably one of the most reliable lines at rumney, as it is nicely shaded by the cave...
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fight for the second pitch!
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Left Crack (5.8)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe it was a high-gravity day (it was certainly a scorcher!) but i thought the traverse was scary, with crappy feet, tenuous holds, and a fairly big section in the middle with no pro. i backed down after getting halfway across and thought it was nearly as scary to follow... we wound up bailing after p1.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Corrugation Corner (5.7)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: i would mention that the p3 traverse goes right after clipping the pin-- my partner and i found this confusing and almost went directly up/left before a friendly party behind us offered some beta!
EDIT: also, DO THIS CLIMB!
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Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby : Crazy Diamond (WI4+)
By: Ted Sumers When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: i think 4+ is a huge sandbag, even for willoughby! i climbed this in thin(ish) conditions; lead the first pitch (would give it wi4) and followed the second (easily wi5, maybe 5+). i'd followed glass menagerie a few days earlier and think this was substantially harder-- while glass menagerie had more sustained steep ice, it was also stemmable, whereas the crux pillar on diamond was super thin, straight vertical, and marginally protectable at best.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs : Fafnir (WI5+) : Photo
By: Ted Sumers When: Feb 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: interesting, we wound up going up the pillar and then traversing right over thin ice and mixed terrain. i think we might've linked back up with the regular finish but it's hard to say.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Holts Ledge : Battle of the bulge, aka:Ja... (WI3)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: also i think this is "jaws"
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Holts Ledge
By: Ted Sumers When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: johnny, i find a lot of the route descriptions confusing despite having been here a lot, but i think "right tree gully" is in fact Scottish gully?
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Holts Ledge : Battle of the bulge, aka:Ja... (WI3)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: there's sometimes a pillar that touches down on this route; named the "sword of damocles"
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Kinsman Notch : The Beast (WI4+)
By: Ted Sumers When: Jan 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the approach beta here is wrong.
when you walk towards the Kinsman ice from the road, this is LEFT of the main area. after you make it up to the base of the main area, turn left and go about 100 yards past Leprechaun's Lament. My partner and I wound up bushwhacking about 300 yards in the wrong direction the first time we tried to find this...
great climb though, well worth the walk over from the rest of the Kinsman ice. did in a single pitch with 60m doubles-- bit of a rope stretcher but defin... more >>
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