Comments: First off... You didn't site the guide book correctly, and this could be considered plagiarism of the topo: Ortenburger, L. N., & Jackson, R. G. (1996). A climber's guide to the Teton Range (p. 214). Seattle, WA: Mountaineers. And this is considered one of the longest routes in the Tetons, if done in it's entirety from Cascade Canyon and to just "describe the upper third" denotes the route as a whole. Also the profile picture isn't even yours, unless your the GTNP Ranger that took the ... more >>
Comments: I've skied the face on the left and pretty sure that this photo does not show Asteroid Alley. This peak is climbers right of Athabasca and makes for a good detour from the standard glacier route.
Comments: I didn't see any bolts on the left side of the ice dagger, perhaps it was covered in ice. There were NO crampon marks either, only a super shitty Lost Arrow piton about 20ft up. I led some M3 WI4 to the right to reach the tree anchor and on TR found this climb to be more like M7-8. Fun area to climb at.
Comments: I met Bruce Gilbert (FA of Mt. Blackburn) a few years ago and had the opportunity to share some beers and stories of Alaskan adventures with him. Bruce is one of the great pioneers of Alaskan mountaineering. I put a link to a youtube video documenting the second ascent of the West Buttress on Denali he made.
Thank you Bruce for your kind words and inspiration.
Comments: There is already an area on MP for climbs in or above 10 Mile Canyon, Quandary Peak, Pacific Peak, and Blue Lakes. This climb would be better posted under 10 Mile Canyon. The traverse from Peak 1 to to Quandary is rated 5.6 R/X if you stay on the ridge proper and is a fine winter outing. It's kind of a POS rubble romp.
Comments: This description sounds more like the couloir between the 2nd and 3rd Apron. The couloir to the climber's right of the 3rd Apron is not that good and consists of chossy third class terrain and doesn't fill in with snow that well down low.
Comments: I'm in the same boat. 28 years in the mountains I've had c6-c7 fused, bilateral laberal repair on my femurs, busted pelvis, grade 2 kidney laceration, FX clavicle x2, CHI, and a few more busted bones. That's why I have dedicated my life to saving lives in the mountains(SAR) and in the ER! Its the best money I have ever spent! Like Bob says, "don't give up the fight."
Comments: I've approached the dihedral directly. Climb 1 pitch up to the giant chockstone and belay. Pull around the left into the dihedral, the rock in here is kind of kitty-litter and spicy. Great route!