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Red Zinger - Red Rocks


Member Since: Sep 24, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 368 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvments | Comments 111 | Posts 46 | Stars 136 | Ratings 59
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : New Dimensions (5.11a)
By: tallmark515 When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Can rap from the top with one 70m rope. This will take you to a bolted rap station to the right of the alcove. Then one more rap to the ground. Not sure if a 60m rope will be long enough.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: tallmark515 When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: We brought a set of offset nuts and a set of Mastercams from tiny to yellow and BD doubles to yellow, one #3, two #4's and one #5. Two #4's was not overkill.

The poster above (Sirius) has good descent beta, the Supertopo beta is worthless.

The route took us about 12hours, we kept up a pretty good pace, for the most part, but got slowed down on the wide crux pitches. We never got lost.

We brought 5 liters of water and drank it all by the time we got back to our packs... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Hemorroids in Flight (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Despite its uninspiring appearance from the ground, this route was actually really fun. A few delicate moves protected by 2 bolts down low (on the slab) take you up a flared hand crack (can supplement second bolt with a high #2) to an interesting flared pod (and another bolt). Lieback the edge of the pod, clip another bolt, grab the mini-jug to the left, place a .4 or a .5 in the roof crack (or not), then throw for the perfect hand jams over the roof and cruise up the easy 5th class anothe... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Manana (5.10d)
By: tallmark515 When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: sooooo good. Contender for one of the best pitches of crack climbing in the valley. Lots of splitter, off fingers and thin hands stuff, but surprisingly secure (except crux). Crux is at the top when the crack gets thin and requires a big, punchy move to rail up higher.

Spit me off at the top, but even the fall is clean! Shit!! Good stuff!!!

No crowds, in the shade until the afternoon. Next to other killer climbs. Do this!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Book of Job (5.10)
By: tallmark515 When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Incredible route!!!! Did this in three long, slow pitches. Linked 1 & 2, 3 & (part of)4, (part of)4 & 5.

Rapped off Blinded by the Light anchors, 3 double rope rappels to slung block at top of first pitch of Braille Book, then one more rap to the ground (4 total).

With the exception of a short section in the 5.9 squeeze chimney, gear is great the whole way. We brought triples of hand to fist sizes which was helpful when linking pitches. Brought one #5 and one #6. If we do it agai... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Fancy Dancin' (5.10b)
By: tallmark515 When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: First pitch is pretty chill (5.9?) crack for gear and most of the climbing is on knobs. Sorta heads up at the top, but not hard. The second pitch, 5.10b, is a one move wonder to a knob just above and to the right of the bolt anchor. I think the left variation is 5.12, according to the book.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Lower Spire : Five Tendons (5.10d)
By: tallmark515 When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: Crux is off the ground and pretty sustained until the 3rd bolt. Climbing then eases off until you gain a good ledge, then one more tricky 5.10- move and easy climbing to the top. Pretty good sporto route, the second good one I've done on lower spire.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome, Main Area : Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch... (5.10c) : Photo
By: tallmark515 When: Feb 7, 2012

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Comments: hey, that's me!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Homeworld (5.11a) : Photo
By: tallmark515 When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: Topo not the same as MP description.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Commitment (5.9)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Sort of awkward off the ground, the tree makes it easier though. Turning the improbable looking corner of the roof on the P3 pitch was stellar! Don't miss the hidden jug just around the corner.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Mr. Natural (5.10+)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Contrary to what the above poster said, I think this is harder than Bombs of Tokyo, P1 of Salathe and Lunatic Fringe. I onsighted all those routes and fell on this one.

Sustained 5.10 finger locks with great pods for feet for 75% of the route. Crux section comes 20 feet from the top and involves tips locks and foot smearing.

Super classic!!!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Apron Jam (5.9)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Burly old school 5.9 liebacking. Sorta felt like Open Book at Tahquitz. A worthwhile approach pitch to Mr. Natural, kind of an intense warm-up if it's your first climb of the day.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : The Surprise (5.10a)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Did the 3 pitch, Werners Ant Tree, to the 2 pitch Surprise combo, great route. 5.8 pitch is super fun and .10a thin hands/finger crack above was stellar.

Be mindful of your rope drag, belay early or suck it up and deal with the nuisance on easier terrain above the crux section of Werners.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Werner's Ant Trees (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Not R, but kinda scary after moving out of the .10a lieback into the .10c section. Definitely no bolt, but there was a fixed nut, which my partner removed. There are other spots for small gear or nuts (I used a green c3) in a small pod to the climbers left (after moving out left from the lieback section).

Great pitch overall, great liebacking and fun face moves with good rests in between. A great first pitch variation to the surprise.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Unnamed (5.10a)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 30, 2010

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Comments: Good lead, bolts near the hard spots and lots of varied climbing; face down low and crack/corner up high. Pretty clean for probably not getting much traffic.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Off The Wall (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: Crux move is 10-15 feet off a ledge, a fall from the crux would likely result in hitting the ledge. Scary.

Climbing is thin and involves some creative use of the arete.... definitely unique.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Seams to Me (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: Area classic! Great thin crack liebacking with great rests between 5.10 moves. Very good gear.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : The Nagual, aka: Moonflower (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: Lieback up a ramp with gear options behind crispy, then flakes. Be a confident 5.10 leader if you plan to climb this route, falling on your gear from the crux could easily cause the rock to blow.

Soft for the book grade of .10b and certainly not .10c


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Space Truckin' (5.10a)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: Harder than Moonflower and sustained, nevertheless awesome crack climbing with an exciting hand traverse 70' up. Guidebook anchor was chopped and has been replaced with another one 40' up. 3.5" cam would be helpful in 5.9 section leading up to anchor.

Full value!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Buster Brown (5.10b)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: Solid .10b, crux at the top feels a bit harder than Fisticuffs. Face holds appear as soon as the crack gets super hard.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Gram (5.10d)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: Crux is above last OZ anchor (start of Gram). Although we came across a few loose blocks, most of the rock is solid and protects safely. Try to move fast before the pump catches up. Good rests between mostly 5.10 moves.

We did the traverse in two horizontal pitches and built a below at the end of the traverse for the final short 5.5 pitch to the top. Traverse can easily be done in one pitch though.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: Did OZ to Gram Traverse. Best multipitch route I've done to date anywhere! Varied and sustained 5.10 climbing. the Gram Traverse was AWESOME and well protected, however the follower should be a confident 5.10 climber.

I agree that the .10c crack pitch felt soft as compared to other valley .10's, the stems are secure and almost every move is a rest through the steep section.

Use your .5 and .75 BD cams sparingly, if you only have two of each, walk them when you can and don't waste gear on the e... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Direct Northwest Face (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: Did the whole route in two pitches with a 70m rope. The crux pitch (2nd pitch) has two short and distinct cruxes, one short .10a lieback move and a few .10b moves in the finger crack above. Both cruxes finish with a move to a jug. One 5.9 psychological crux near the top of p2, an unprotected 5.9 slab move, a fall from here would result in hitting the ledge below. Can (sort of) be protected with a micro nut in a tiny crack.

No need for offset cams or nuts.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome, Main Area : Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch... (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: Starts off with awkward 5.9 up a corner to an exciting 5.10 roof move. Above the roof is where the business starts, keep you feet in the crack until you must use the face. Fortunately once the crack peters out a few face features appear.

A great route, the crack is definitely sustained 5.10.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Sinbad-Herbert (5.10d)
By: tallmark515 When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: I did P2 today, a little dirty and rotten for 20 feet or so above the P1 chains, but pretty solid from there on out. Watch out for the loose flake near the first(?) bolt, it (now) has large "X"'s on it.

When making your way up to the first bolt from the P1 chains, go left into the gully, it's MUCH more secure than going right.

One typical dike crux (for the Leap), delicate and reachy .10+ 3/4 of the way up P2.

Safe to rap with one 70m rope to P1 chains.


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