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Red Zinger - Red Rocks


Member Since: Sep 24, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 377 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 115 | Posts 48 | Stars 139 | Ratings 59
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Bikini Beach Party

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R (8)

Trad, 1 pitch, 100'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Schultz's Ridge

May 12, 2010

Crystalline Passage

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (12)

Sport, 1 pitch, 120'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Schultz's Ridge

May 12, 2010

La Arista

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (2)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan Base Routes

Mar 29, 2010

Polymastia

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (15)

Trad, 1 pitch, 80'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Jan 11, 2010

Ringtail

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (2)

Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 500'

NV : Red Rock : ... : Eagle Wall

Nov 30, 2009

Unnamed Center Route

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a (3)

Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Clam Rock

Aug 24, 2009

God of Thunder (.10c Variation)

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (21)

Trad, 1 pitch, 50'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Dear John Buttress

Jun 28, 2009

Unnamed but Beautiful

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (19)

Trad, 1 pitch, 90'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Lower Cathedral Rock

May 19, 2009

End of The Line

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (24)

Trad, 1 pitch, 120'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Lower Cathedral Rock

May 19, 2009

Wintergreen

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 (7)

Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarbun

Mar 31, 2009

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Clam Rock

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Phantom Spires

Aug 24, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Sunny Falls

Sunny Falls

Northern California : Tahoe - Sierra - Ice Season... : Post

Jan 6, 2015

death slabs photo

death slabs photo

Northern California : Condition & accident report...

Jun 19, 2013

death slabs topo

death slabs topo

Northern California : Condition & accident report...

Jun 19, 2013

Homeworld topo that I created.

Homeworld topo that I created.

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Homeworld (5.11a)

Apr 19, 2011

Red Zinger - Red Rocks

Red Zinger - Red Rocks

tallmark515 : my pics

Dec 24, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Mary's Tears (5.11a/b)
By: tallmark515 When: May 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A really great route with only a few short sections of loose rock. A much better way to start NEB, minus the crowds. Conserve your two #3's on p3 or bring an extra one.

P1 - Three variations:

1: Leftmost corner. Sort of dirty down low and a bit awkward for 50 feet, felt 5.9'ish. Then continues to a large OW looking flake that is actually easy and not OW, this section felt 5.8. Apparently there is an 11b option up here, but we couldn't find it, the 5.8 is the obvious way to go.

2: Midd... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 1 - Parkline Slab : Flying In The Mountains (5.11a)
By: tallmark515 When: Jan 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Stellar route! Incredible edging, sustained 5.10 on mostly awesome crimps and cracks and even a bit of slab. Pitch 3 (crux) is 4-stars as is most of the rest of the climb. The whole route is very safe, with maybe the exception being P5, which admittedly was "a bit heady" but the climbing was not very difficult.

We brought: Singles BD .75-2 and Doubles black Alien - red Alien, 14 draws.

First pitch has multiple starts, we started on the 5.10c bolted face (Homeworld p1?), past rap anchor to easy... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Fifi Buttress : Voyager (5.11c)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: First pitch felt sustained and pumpy with tricky gear at the crux (when the splitter finger crack begins to peter out).

On the sixth pitch traverse, stay below the second bolt.

We didn't bring a #4 and the the route still felt plenty safe, but both my partner and I found places where it would have been nice to have it on at least three separate pitches. It could also make the tricky gear section on P1, less tricky.

I would opt for three yellow alien sized pieces next time, either in pla... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: FINAL PITCH BETA
Approximately 100' up the final pitch (Supertopo pitch 8) you will see a single bolt (just out of reach) on your left side (Supertopo optional belay). Near this spot you must traverse RIGHT on a small ledge with some broken rock to gain the final crack (not obvious) to the top. It's helpful to have three #2 Camalots if you plan to do it as one mega 200' pitch.

NOTE: If you don't do this traverse and keep going straight up, the route will continue up a chossy hand ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 4 - Arch Rock : New Dimensions (5.11a)
By: tallmark515 When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Can rap from the top with one 70m rope. This will take you to a bolted rap station to the right of the alcove. Then one more rap to the ground. Not sure if a 60m rope will be long enough.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: tallmark515 When: Aug 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We brought a set of offset nuts and a set of Mastercams from tiny to yellow and BD doubles to yellow, one #3, two #4's and one #5. Two #4's was not overkill.

The poster above (Sirius) has good descent beta, the Supertopo beta is worthless.

The route took us about 12hours, we kept up a pretty good pace, for the most part, but got slowed down on the wide crux pitches. We never got lost.

We brought 5 liters of water and drank it all by the time we got back to our packs... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Hemorroids in Flight (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Jul 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Despite its uninspiring appearance from the ground, this route was actually really fun. A few delicate moves protected by 2 bolts down low (on the slab) take you up a flared hand crack (can supplement second bolt with a high #2) to an interesting flared pod (and another bolt). Lieback the edge of the pod, clip another bolt, grab the mini-jug to the left, place a .4 or a .5 in the roof crack (or not), then throw for the perfect hand jams over the roof and cruise up the easy 5th class anothe... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Manana (5.10d)
By: tallmark515 When: May 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: sooooo good. Contender for one of the best pitches of crack climbing in the valley. Lots of splitter, off fingers and thin hands stuff, but surprisingly secure (except crux). Crux is at the top when the crack gets thin and requires a big, punchy move to rail up higher.

Spit me off at the top, but even the fall is clean! Shit!! Good stuff!!!

No crowds, in the shade until the afternoon. Next to other killer climbs. Do this!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Book of Job (5.10)
By: tallmark515 When: May 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Incredible route!!!! Did this in three long, slow pitches. Linked 1 & 2, 3 & (part of)4, (part of)4 & 5.

Rapped off Blinded by the Light anchors, 3 double rope rappels to slung block at top of first pitch of Braille Book, then one more rap to the ground (4 total).

With the exception of a short section in the 5.9 squeeze chimney, gear is great the whole way. We brought triples of hand to fist sizes which was helpful when linking pitches. Brought one #5 and one #6. If we do it agai... more >>


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