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Washburns Thumb.  Denali


Member Since: Aug 11, 2008
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact talkinrocks


Point Rank: # 4,020
Total Points: 96
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has talkinrocks been climbing?










Contributions


All (150) | Routes | Areas | Photos (16) | Comments (16) | Posts (106) | Stars (6) | Ratings (6)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3) : Photo
By: talkinrocks When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: Great pic


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Photo
By: talkinrocks When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: You rock. Thanks for the text in the pic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face, North Side (5.3 R)
By: talkinrocks When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: This is a great route. Of the many Flatiron solos, I enjoyed this one a lot. It's up there with Angel's Way and the 3rd in my book. It's got some lichen, but its' pretty straightforward and mostly clean. We found good face holds to the right of the crack on the "crux". The ridge is awesome, super easy, and beautiful climbing. Should be 4 stars, a must do!


Location: talkinrocks : pics : Photo
By: talkinrocks When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Yep. Lone Eagle.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Spiral Route (5.4)
By: talkinrocks When: Sep 18, 2011

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Comments: I agree with Bicknell. A good route. Can be done easily and still give some butterflies in the 'taint spot.

While comparable, I enjoyed this climb much more than Lone Eagle.

The rap beta here on MP is right on. Easy rap route, however the top summit block rappel anchor was torn and chewed (marmots) as of July '11. We didn't stop to fix it, instead chose the downclimb to the first bolt station (which was scary for the second). Thanks for the rappel topo!


Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : Direct North Buttress (5.10b PG13) : Photo
By: talkinrocks When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: After seeing this pic, I want to climb this route. Sold. Merriam Peak here I come.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7)
By: talkinrocks When: Oct 26, 2010

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Comments: This Classic is kind of a pile. Yes, it is exposed on the 3rd and 5th pitches and the 5.8 variations are more challenging, but the rock is mostly a choss pile interspersed with some fun clean rock. The pins are plentiful to clip if you dare. Super sharp fins and/or edges could be rope cutters very easily in a fall and they exist everywhere on the route. A good tick off the list, but overall I was not super impressed.

Oh, the approach trail is not at all obvious (as many guidebooks say) if ... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Recompense (5.9)
By: talkinrocks When: Oct 26, 2010

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Comments: Joe Lee Wrote:

"On the approach trail, make a right at the base of the cliff. And then continue left up the stone steps. After the first wood staircase, turn left onto a flat granite area with a slab above it. This is the start. The second pitch is actually pretty good. The third pitch is badass. "

This is good beta for the traveling climber without a guidebook. Right on the money.
I agree, the second pitch is pretty good, very nice actually, not too hard if you've suffered through some wid... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall : East Of Eden (5.10)
By: talkinrocks When: May 29, 2009

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Comments: Felt awfully hard for a 5.10-, but I am out of shape. Super fun and hard at the crux. Too thin for comfortable jams.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Ship Of Fools (5.9+)
By: talkinrocks When: May 29, 2009

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Comments: Starting this climb and geting off the ground definatly felt like the crux of this fun climb. Lieback with both hands on big hold with small polished feet to jug for the right hand and into the finger crack higher up on the left. Definatly kinda scary and unprotected about 6 feet off the deck. The rest of the climb was a cruiser and fun. I'd call it 5.10.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Jolly Roger (5.10 PG13)
By: talkinrocks When: May 28, 2009

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Comments: Fun route. I had a hard time pulling the roof into the awkward mantle. Flail fest for me on lead, but my partner fired that thing like it was nothing. Loads of good incut edges working up to the roof.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary : Owl Crack (5.8+)
By: talkinrocks When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: Best route in the Triple Cracks. If the Boy Scouts would stop flailing all over it for hours, you may get a chance at leading this route. Pulling the roof isnt as hard as it looks from below. Solid jams above and below the "roof".


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos... : Fear of Flying (5.10)
By: talkinrocks When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: So much fun!! If you are leading it, walking your gear is the key to this beast. If you are TR, lieback till the cows come home and dont stop moving for the fear of flying or a good flash pump.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos... : Little Feat (5.9+)
By: talkinrocks When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: Great route, albeit short. Good practice crack for the budding 5.9 hand jammer. If this crack went on for another 150 feet, it would be one of the sweetest pitches ever. Besides everything in Yosemite. Eats up #2 camalots.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: talkinrocks When: Oct 29, 2008

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Comments: Awesome route! Polished a bit, but that's Eldo for ya. Definitely not for a budding 5.8 leader. Watch out for many wasps/bees/painful stingy things on the ground while belaying, and all the wet mud when tossing your ropes for rappel. I agree that it is awkward to get to the second rappel station, the rap anchors at the top of Redguard that Ron Olsen alludes to is a better option.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: talkinrocks When: Oct 28, 2008

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Comments: This route is a pile. If you like steep grass climbing and a little bit of chossy rock, and a big approach then this is the route for you. If you like good alpine rock, go to RMNP. All in all it is a good experience with spectacular position but otherwise the aesthetics of the line make it hardly worth the walk. As many have mentioned many times above, the descent can be tricky to find. DO NOT FOLLOW THE FIRST BIG GULLY ON THE EAST SIDE!! It cliffs out many times and a slip here could be co... more >>