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Member Since: Dec 13, 2006
Last Visit: Aug 15, 2014
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Point Rank: # 223
Total Points: 2,364
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Taino been climbing?










Contributions


All 467 | Routes 133 | Areas 38 | Photos 90 | Page Improvments | Comments 14 | Posts 32 | Stars 136 | Ratings 24

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Northwest : St. John's Ledges
By: Taino When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Anyone have any info on all the commercial groups that use the area, and and get very aggressive if someone else is there while they're using "their cliff" on "their day"??


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Bunkbed Wall : PJ Party (5.7 R)
By: Taino When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: You may be right, Zach, but remember that the images in the current guidebook leave much to be desired.

PJ Party goes up the last face between two thin, discontinuous vertical cracks and avoids the left-facing corner that is used for Sleepwalking. It's also too far to the right to be Night Owl - which shares the bolts with Bunk Arete.

The new bolts at the top of the cliff are set up over Sleepwalking (the 5.4). There's a thin, long crack to climber's left of the new bolts; that's w... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Son of Easy O (5.8) : Photo
By: Taino When: May 17, 2007

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Comments: Nice shot, Cory! Love the buzzard above!


Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Taino When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: John, I can get C3s at below cost, and TCUs discounted - and I still have no interest in spending money on either. Neither of them fits or feels like an Alien.

Fortunately, both of them seem to actually stay in one piece - which is, ultimately, what counts.

I can only hope that another company steps up and buys the patent, and makes them properly.

T


Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Taino When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: Apparently, the Alien at Souder's Crack was stamped "Tensile Tested". No picture yet, but at this point it really doesn't matter.

Regardless, I, too, am done with CCH. I trust the Aliens I have - they've caught and held - but I won't buy new ones unless a new company (with proven QA/QC) takes them over.

T


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : 48 (5.4)
By: Taino When: Apr 2, 2007

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Comments: This route is in the Gray Dick at 5.2. I must agree with the rating of 5.4 above; it's not, by any stretch of the imagination, a 5.2. I would also say PG-13 to R for the first pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Layback (5.5)
By: Taino When: Feb 13, 2007

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Comments: I've found that a #3.5 Camalot (no longer made) or a #4 Camalot is very helpful on the opening moves of the layback section. You can't place it from the good stance below the crux, but you take a step or two up (before being completely committed) and there's a good constriction. My #4 caught a friend's lead fall in that spot.


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: Taino When: Jan 19, 2007

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Comments: Generally, yes - of course, it all depends on your personal tolerance for cold weather. This year, it was fine; last year, it was COLD.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7) : Photo
By: Taino When: Jan 18, 2007

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Comments: When topping out in this area, it's ALWAYS better to walk off via the Uberfall; this area is generally quite busy, and rappelling through only makes it that much more crowded.


Location: International : Australia
By: Taino When: Jan 13, 2007

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Comments: One thing you should know about Australian climbing is the carrot bolt. "Carrots" are machine screws with the threads filed off, then pounded into slightly undersized, pre-drilled holes. They aren't used any more, having been ousted by modern hanger bolts, but there are still many in use that haven't been and likely won't be replaced. Trust carrots as you would trust any other piece of fixed gear of unknown parentage - carefully, and with deep suspicion. Some of them are still bomber, while you ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Red Pillar (5.5)
By: Taino When: Dec 27, 2006

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Comments: The first pitch is a run-out horror show, and the route is not at all obvious. Survive that, and the second pitch is yours to enjoy. It starts off a bit manky and dirty, but once you're above the trees the pitch is great.

Not a good idea for a 5.5 leader to take pitch one--very PG-13. You'll need small cams; I used a hybrid Alien in a couple of places.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Minty (5.4)
By: Taino When: Dec 27, 2006

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Comments: The original Minty route goes up the right-facing corner from the pine tree ledge belay. If you go that way, it is indeed 5.3. The variation of stepping left onto the face and going straight up past "the hole in the rock" goes more 5.4+.

T


Location: International : Australia : Blue Mountains : Mount York : Sector 1
By: Taino When: Dec 27, 2006

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Comments: Yeah, sorry Ron; I copied my original info without thinking that not everyone knows what those things are. I'll go in and make an adjustment.

T


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: Taino When: Dec 27, 2006

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Comments: HIGHLY recommend doing the "optional" belay at the top of the offwidth; otherwise, the rope drag is only slightly less than paralyzing.

Also disagree with the opinion above that the right-hand start (to the right of the arete, up the left-facing dihedral, move right to left under roof to arete) is "5.6". It's harder than any of the other starts listed in the various Williams' guides - but it has gear.