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Member Since: May 23, 2009
Last Visit: Oct 29, 2009
Contact Ta-Chi Wang


Point Rank: # 14,298
Total Points: 9
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ta-Chi Wang been climbing?










Contributions


All 16 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 9 | Posts | Stars 6 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Catenary Crack (5.9)
By: Ta-Chi Wang When: Jun 6, 2009

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Comments: Kasrten and I did this route yesterday. I kind of cheated in the beginning with Karsten's help, who is taller than I am and so who was able to sink a good piece (a Wide Country friend, red) into a left-side finger pocket to the attached flake as a protection for the crux. I then used the layback move, shown by Henning on his photos. That was darn difficult due to lack of footholds (and that portion of wall is virtually waxed). Took a couple falls. Then I gave up the left-facing-layback strategy ... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan
By: Ta-Chi Wang When: May 29, 2009

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Comments: To get a first look about this fabulous area and its quality of climbing, see 'Rock Climbing in Taiwan', by Matt Robertson: www.climbstone.com/

Hope some of my Taiwanese friends will start to put here their own photos and comments of their favorite routes at Dragon Cave.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7)
By: Ta-Chi Wang When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: Lots argument! I led this route a week ago with Karsten, that was my 6th trip to DL, 3rd trip to CCC, during the past 11 years since I came to Madison from Taiwan. And you know, you guys are lucky! This route is just such a great route to lead and to enjoy that too many arguments simply tarnish it.

For someone who would like to enjoy it, small nuts work particularly well on the lower section (the first 15 feet).


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Foreplay (5.5)
By: Ta-Chi Wang When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: This 5.6 is perhaps the easiest 5.6 I've ever done at DL. It's even easier than another 5.5, Pine Tree D at the Railway. But I think it really doesn't matter; insofar as the rating goes, does much of those 'moderate,' 5.9-below leading routes at DL really matter anyway? It's a great route by any measure.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Cracking Up (5.6)
By: Ta-Chi Wang When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: Agree with Doug. This is a great route: long, moderate, easy-to-protect, and exposed, deserving more people to lead it. I used a Camalot #6 (#5 will also do if you put it deeper) on the crux and the layback on it was just much FUN!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Curving Crack (5.8)
By: Ta-Chi Wang When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: Great route! 5.8 at least by leading. Using layback to pass the top crux makes the route even more enjoyable.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : American Beauty Crack (5.8)
By: Ta-Chi Wang When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: Layback may work on this beauty, but become a doubtful strategy when leading it. Tape your hand well if you get a small hand like I do, for on the half way up the wide crack fist-jamming become necessary.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Dihedral (5.5)
By: Ta-Chi Wang When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: Somehow the crux on this route has been underestimated. The crux to overcome the overhung boulder requires a hang jam (just underneath the boulder), a smearing footwork on the right face, and then a powerful pull-up in order to reach either a not-so-good hold on the left or into a groove (far and bad one) on the right. For a beginner's leading? I'm not sure.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : The Wasp (5.8)
By: Ta-Chi Wang When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: If Roger's Roof deserves 3 stars, this route should do the same or even more. Just like the Roger's Roof, here the protection is sketchy below the crux, but good right on it (a #4 Camalot will do). Then the hand jam over and the layback above the crux are just fun.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

The Wasp 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Wiessner Wall

American Beauty Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone

Cracking Up 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest

Foreplay 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Rainy Wednesday Tower

Peter's Project 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Many Pines Buttress

Catenary Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Railroad Amphitheater

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

American Beauty Crack

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone