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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : HVCG Bouldering Circuit : ... : Photo
By: susan peplow When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Blitzo, you're no Pinhead..."yo" take a nice photo :)
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Location: Legs Magillicutty : Climbing and stuff : Photo
By: susan peplow When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hysterical. For some reason it triggered a memory of the old ALP's shirts. "Wanted 5.12 climber Have rope and rack".
~Susan
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Location: susan peplow : photo album : Photo
By: susan peplow When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alpine Artworks out of Albuquerque. I've probably had them for cover 15 years.
Quick draw with 10 caret gold "draw"
3-D climber guy on the other ear. He actually replaced a girl climber earring I lost years ago.
I also have a stopper and necklace but got those in a shop in France.
You can still find stuff, you just have o look.
Here's a place that does climbing jewelry. Although I haven't purchase any...
http://www.rockclimbingjewelry.com/
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : White Lines Boulder : White Lines (V8) : Photo
By: susan peplow When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How come something so hard is made to look so easy? Great job & shot guys!
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Fairway : Sky's The Limit (5.10b)
By: susan peplow When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In 2 years it seems that 400 pounds of rubble have come off this route. Key holds are now missing, mid section is complete shale and upper headwall plates look like they're going to sail down to your belayer like a frisbee.
What once was a multi-star 10a route now gets a bomb. Climb at your own risk.
~Susan
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Exorcist (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We headed over here for a quick lap the other day. There is no reason why I can't lead this route...other than I remembered it being hard. That said, I had Russ lead it.
Thank God I did! Thin, slick down low and borderline just tough. I didn't fall, but if I had to fiddle with gear at all I'd be at my limit.
I did a second lap on it just for good measure, climbing it like I'd lead it.....results.....Hang.
Great route, too bad it's not on the ground floor and a solid lead for anyone.... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: susan peplow When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route on lead or follow. Unfortunate that the first 1/2 is low angle and non-eventful but the upper section is very fun and provides great hands.
Good stuff, I think I'm bumping it to 3 starts.
~Susan
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Iceberg Boulder : Boortemus (5.10d)
By: susan peplow When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As Will described, people with smaller hands might find the start to be easier than the off-sized hands above. Muliple hangs as my hands slid out of the crack finally got me to the summit.
Harder than Illusion Dweller, Fisticuffs, Rubican. IMO
~Sooze
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Nimbus (5.10c PG13)
By: susan peplow When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What do the kids say these days????? Suck it?
The route is not worth the hike. Crumbly rock, mediocre climbing and considering your feet could cut loose at any time you'll be paying attention to the fall factor.
Second pitch is kinda cool when you go from the lie back to the jamming and calling it any less than 10c would be a sandbag. The gear is good but difficult to get in and again, with the crumbly feet you'd better have your game on.
Lewis messed up the rap lengths as previously report... more >>
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good job and nice addition you two. I like soooo many have gazed across the creek at those towers but was too lazy to go check them out (although I know of those who have).
Story had it when the road was closed that there was a way to get up top the east plateau and hike over to Lower Devils Canyon. Geir, you see anything like that on Google Earth?
How's the catclaw on the approach trails?
Can't wait to see more!
~Susan
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Worthy Whoopsie (5.11-)
By: susan peplow When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route with cool extended finish. Lacking prior knowledge and leading on a very skinny 9.2 cord I elected to belay my partner up at the top of P1 before venturing off to the second pitch (all 6 bolts of it). No way would he have heard me if I popped off and down the dihedral I'd go clanging away as he paid out the rope. Ultimately, he led through and pulled the finishin holds.
The route overall is cool and the extension a must do. Questionable if you could get down with a single 70m c... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Strong Persuader (5.8 X)
By: susan peplow When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't find this route to be dirty, rotten or loose. Or for that matter difficult to protect. To the contrary, it was a nice .8 which I wouldn't have normally gotten on aside from the crowds had much of the other lines occupied.
This route is located between Chambered Natilus and Leftoverture and is a face. Otherwise, the rest of the description doesn't much apply.
A handful of bolts protect this nice low angle line to a chain anchor.
Enjoy :)
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Namaste (5.12a)
By: susan peplow When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gaar, you're nuts. As most the moves are straight forward there are several reachy ones that take strength, reach and technique to pull off without hangin'. Pump factor is a legal element to bump the rating to .12. Furthermore, I highly doubt the .10+ leader could do this route clean. (myself included)
This route like it's easier neighbor 1/2 route is fantastic and worth doing over and over again.
Shady, quiet and perfect temps late June '09 (and not a single mosquito)
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (5.10+)
By: susan peplow When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic and worth the 45 minute nature hike!!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Photo
By: susan peplow When: Jun 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really interesting shot. One that doesn't even look like Red Rocks from this vantage point.
I like it, it's cool.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Solosby Wall : Latin Swing (5.11b)
By: susan peplow When: May 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is better than 1 star. Fun pocket pulling climbing until you reach the "one move wonder" as Chris describes. For me, that one move really is a wonder or rather, a shut down. Several sequences can gain you through the crux but the route is worth every bit of it's grade.
It only takes one move to make the grade. For me, I call this .11c/d
~Susan
Condition report: Summer months - in the shade @ noon
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Solosby Wall : Bebop Tango (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: May 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The steep nature of this route makes for pumpy climbing. The start is not 5.6 or 5.7 as previously described. The start is certainly not the crux but does have your attention getting off the deck and a missed sequence is not fun. Once established in the large pockets reaching the first bolt is easy enough. If you don't like the fall factor you could bridge using the boulder behind you to clip the first bolt.
Reachy and powerful moves at the mid-way crux (bulge) as a 5'7" girl I either need ... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Photo
By: susan peplow When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No matter how many times I see it I'm reminded on why I love the eastside so much.
Lovely photo. Thanks!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Coral Sea Adventure (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: May 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed that this route is one of the better on the east face.
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Location: AZ : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Fourplay (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Chelsea, were you down there this past weekend? Too hot or just right in the shade? We debated about going there but ultimately headed up the mountain a bit. On the way back down we were still left to wonder what the conditions actually were?
BTW, that is a nice route and always worth a ride!
~Susan
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : St. Valentines Day Massacre (5.8-)
By: susan peplow When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5 bolts no gear supplement needed. If you're ticking the formation why not? Besides the left leaning crack makes for an interesting feature to follow.
Nice.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Off Scott Free (5.9+)
By: susan peplow When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: #3 nut to supplement the 3 bolts. Cool bowl feature at the start.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Cell Block Eight (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Meghan, 5.7+R
If you're not putting gear in during the 5.5 section....don't fall.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Mug Shot (5.8+)
By: susan peplow When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3 bolts a small nut and fun climbing. Plus the start gives it some interest.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Mr. Meanor (5.8+)
By: susan peplow When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2 bolts can be supplemented with a set of stoppers or cams to 1 1/2"
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