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Beer Anyone?


Member Since: Jan 24, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 176
Total Points: 2,782
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2689 | Routes 78 | Areas 7 | Photos 244 | Page Improvments | Comments 677 | Posts 435 | Stars 934 | Ratings 314
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Anthrax (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Not the best description that Woody ever put in. I was actually thinking this was not the correct route but cross referencing the JT West guide I believe it is.

The route is an obvious finger crack which is visible when working the routes to the left. Perhaps what Woody meant with "around the corner" is around a large boulder that separates this route from the next route left which is The Playwright.

The start is barely a left facing dihedral but quickly turns into a straight in finger cr... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : I'm So Embarrassed For You (5.7)
By: susan peplow When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: The start amazingly tricky, so much so I went back down for small gear to protect the first set of sequences. Gear is so-so, a bit flared in spots, a few pods...... Good route just wasn't as obvious as some of the neighboring routes.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: susan peplow When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful crack, girl looks solid!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Star Wars Rock : Light Sabre (5.10b)
By: susan peplow When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Anchors are less than ideal. Both spinners on old SMC hangers and two very short chain-links. As Will suggested bring a wrench and tighten up. Better yet, they should be replaced and will go on such a list. In the meantime, please don't pull straight up while setting up to rap and be careful.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
By: susan peplow When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: As of April 11th. 2-14 - Van Dusen Canyon Rd gate is open with dry travels all but one small puddle along the way. At the T intersection we opted for the eastern 3N16 > 3N32 access which was also bone dry all the way to the Central Pinnacles parking area. Can't speak for going around the campground and approaching from the west but there were others in the area that had used that access.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Hidden Slab : Rodeo Doggie (5.10)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: Seems the crux can be skinned many different ways including the side pull as the above poster mentioned, high step or for me, a backwards mantle that worked like a dream. Very worthwhile climb for the wall, thanks guys. Quality of rock above has some hollow sounding flakes but their not really used and probably more solid then they sound. Safe and fun climbing.....


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Hidden Slab : Under the Radar (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: I thought the first two bolts were pseudo-difficult on pretty vertical rock. For sure eases on the upper 2/3 but great warm up to get your slab feet under you. Another great anchor placement on a safe ledge makes for easy pulls and cleaning. But glue-in's which I though was odd for the area and FA team. Solid though.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Hidden Slab : Private Eye (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: Not a person out seeking the slab routes I found this quite enjoyable and thankful of my partner Kelly who was doing all the leading for the day. Well placed bolts with the crux probably around the 4th bolt then eases considerably towards the top. Thoughtful anchors make for an easy rap. I would not consider this a grain pile spring of 2014.... must have cleaned up or my bar for such quite low?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Photo
By: susan peplow When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: I miss my friend Blitzo but find solace when his pictures rotate through the "photo of the moment". This is a nice one :)


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Totally Clips (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: This is a great route, I've done three times 2007, 2009 and 2014 and doesn't disappoint. Belay is flat and directly below the first bolt. Bolts are nicely placed together with maybe a bit of spice between 2 & 3. I have noted that the anchor is chains only (no hangers) and maybe even of smaller diameter link. I was comfortable enough from the stance to fiddle with getting a biner clipped but someone gripped or showing up with only lockers may not be so fortunate.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Classic Corner (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: One of the guidebooks noted a set of singles to #2 friend or something like that. I launched with a similar rack and though, "how bad could it be" Turns out, it's sneaky slick for the first third of the route with kinda smallish gear. I would have gladly brought more stoppers and more 1/2" cams had I known. My recommendation would be to A) bring a set of doubles to 2.5" and maybe a single 3" for the top. B) Actually look at the crack for gear selection before just launching up it (cou... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Attack Dogs (5.10c)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: I feel pretty confident in saying it's still probably closer to 10b and that grade only at the notable crux clipping or passing the second bolt. 1st lap, exited left then up what is steep but likely 5.9 terrain. On the lower went straight up over the second bolt and found the moves probably easier although you likely wouldn't clip the bolt until the hands above. A fall at that point could be grim as the ledge below the dihedral is near.

Very fun - all these routes make for an excellent vis... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not ... (5.8 PG13)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: So for clarification for those reading the comments above.... route is now 5 bolts to the fixed two bolt anchor. Supplemental cam placement behind a flake between 3 & 4 should you choose. Absolutely worth doing while in the area.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Big Bad Wolf (5.9)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: Get on this route before published in ink. As it is, the line can be incredible to get on especially Physical Graffiti right next door.

This is a very fine route with lots of bolts and easy belays. So much so, it likely will become a beginners route or perhaps even guide training for multi-pitch climbing. Bolt protected, bolted & chained belays all of which are seen from the ground make for an ideal set up for those just learning systems, hanging belays, rope management, calls a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: Seems popularity is growing especially with it's pseudo-new soon to be uber classic neighboring route. Luckily you can see the scores of people at the base from the wash below and decide your own fate before hiking up. My partner and I fired the first pitch while waiting for Big Bad Wolf . Lots of holds and obvious gear placements for the budding leader. Fun enough although I think the money pitch is the second. Perhaps on another visit link up [[Over the hill to grandmother's ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Zoo Wall : Really Really Ridiculously ... (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: Good route, better quality rock than some of the neighbors with limited loose rock. Thoughtful and plentiful bolt placements courtesy of Greg & Karin. No real crux, hauled up a few pieces for the crack above as suggested but it's bomber hands with features all around plus only 8' or so above the last bolt.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Cattle Pocket : ... : Unknown 2 (5.9)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: This route has a cool two finger shallow pocket near the second bolt. Using it is pretty neat, the most memorable part of the climb.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Cattle Pocket : ... : Center Dinosaur Crack (5.7)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was pretty good and for certain the best on the wall. Blitzo, (rest his soul) clearly didn't climb this route or even walk to the base. The crack not only looks wide but is wide, if you've humped up your gear to the base you might as well rack up with as much as 4 1/2" if you've got it. You head up with a max of 2" you'll be hard pressed for gear in some places.

Anchors everywhere (4 total over 6' section). The route actually has a set of hangers with big-ol-buttonheads on ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Cattle Pocket : ... : Left Dinosaur Crack (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: It is true, it's a stinker but I'm lobbing a star onto it because it's a crack with a bolted anchor above. NOT worth hiking up there, even if the hike was 5 minutes vs. 10. Maybe okay if you're there to tick the wall but it's pretty loose and overall not that great.


Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Fairview Mountain : Tatooine : ... : Yoda (5.10c)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: "Always pass on what you have learned", Yoda.

With that, I'll say this is an excellent line with thoughtful bolt placements up a somewhat technical rock face. Great route, great fun and let the force be with you!


Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Fairview Mountain : Tatooine : ... : A Day At The Pod Races (5.10b)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: If you're chasing the sun this route may be an attraction as the sun is tracking around south. The route itself is not a classic compared to others in the immediate vicinity. Opening moves are muggy but probably accessed from the large boulder right. The route actually climbs on the right naturally and is semi-forced. Fun enough climbing and worth getting on if in the area but if you're saving yourself for better stuff....do just that as there are plenty of quality lines nearby.

Still on... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Left Side : ... : Photo
By: susan peplow When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Frankie going for it with the photo perfect color top!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Zippy Rock : The Black Stallion (5.10+)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: This route provides some steep, dynamic moves and well placed bolts. Final moves the color and quality of the rock change which possibly had something to do with the anchor placement. Save your rope, clip the anchors and come down. You don't need to dome out on this route. Want to hit the summit....do the neighboring route....once the bolts are replaced.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Stirrup Rock : Stirrup Rock - North Face : Jugular Vein (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Birds gone and rains come, route currently has limited bird poo. Sure a little but honestly wouldn't have even considered mentioning it at all short of the comments above. Fun route - traverse can be done high or low, both work. Lots of stopper placements and enjoyable climbing. TR set up using bolted anchor for Freckle Face and or gear anchor above with whatever you have left and sit in a solution pocket.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Stirrup Rock : Stirrup Rock - South Face : Carlos Danger (5.9)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: I see you guys are showering this route with stars but the only shower I found was the rock quality on my belayer. Fun enough start which is short lived before hitting the ledge. I figured there was enough space before the headwall to avoid rope drag but I was wrong. Back cleaned the 1st draw after the ledge then used long runners. Rope drag is horrendous and the rock is devoid of quality. What you will find is very loose rock, flakes that want to detach and was blowing my buzz so much I t... more >>


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