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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
By: Surlyman When: Nov 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area was VERY crowded on Sunday, 11/20. The ice was not looking too bad, but there was a lot of water running down most pillars. People were just hacking their way through the routes and with the crowds what ice there was got trashed. Hopefully some other ice areas open up soon so that this area can have an opportunity to form up properly.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Gobble Up (5.8)
By: Surlyman When: Oct 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no way that this climb is a 5.8 if Left Handed Jew is also a 5.8. Left Handed Jew is way easier, and in fact most of the 1/2 dozen or so in our group that climbed both yesterday found Left Handed Jew to be easier than Honky Jam Ass Crack which is rated (fairly) at 5.7. Gobble Up is closer to Steppenwolf (5.9) in level of difficulty and requires sustained jamming in a wider than hands crack.
Congratulations to "J-Lo" for a great lead on this route yesterday.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Quandary Peak : Inwood Arete (5.4 R)
By: Surlyman When: Aug 19, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: (Name withheld) took a leader fall off the first pitch of Inwood Arete on Quandary Peak last Sunday, resulting in about a 25-foot grounder and two badly broken legs. (Name withheld) recalls a handhold breaking off in his right hand, precipitating a fall which caused an otherwise well-placed nut to shatter the crack in which it was placed when weighted. This unfortunate chain of events is not surprising when you read the route description for Inwood Arete, which describes the first pitch as hard... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Classic Dihedral (5.7)
By: Surlyman When: Aug 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This crack is indeed a classic. I did it for the 3rd time last weekend, and it never fails to impress. After scrambling up 25 feet to the start of the dihedral, it is fingers and hands with foot jams and some thin feet on the face for two-thirds of the climb. The crack then starts to widen out and you need to rely on some thin face smearing and possibly some off-width technique with the upper body.
No need for a very large cam in the lieback section near the top as the slings on the chock ar... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Mesca-Line (5.7)
By: Surlyman When: Jul 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely place a piece under the flake before the crux. I slotted a 4.5 cam there today but hung around too long after placing it and [peeled]. The cam held rock solid and there was no indication by sound or anything else that the flake was anything but solid.
When I climb Mesca-Line again I will take something smaller like a 3 or 3.5 so that I don't have to move so far right to find a placement. After the fall I finished by just climbing straight up the crack and I think it is less stre... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge
By: Surlyman When: Jun 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was climbing at Shelf Road on the weekend. A climber led Pully Mammoth and set it up on top rope for his girlfriend. She couldn't pull the roof so he top-roped it to clean it. He grabbed the jug to pull himself over the roof and a rock the size of a loaf of bread broke off in his hand and landed on the ground a few feet from his girlfriend.
Given the now missing jug I suspect this climb is now a tad harder than it used to be.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Interface aka Slab Left (5.8)
By: Surlyman When: May 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: 8+ going straight up the face. High risk of decking if you fall anywhere. Should be better protected.
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