Comments: Are we sure this is the same problem? The link says "left of Shogun", this face sits up the hill and down the trail from shogun, prolly 100 yards away or more... and I had to clear bushes and scrub years of lichen to get this into shape... Its also not even close to V4, more like V2 ... and, its not an arete, its a face climb. But, let me know, im down to update the listing to make sure its accurate. And that goes for anything i've posted here, want it to be accurate; not concerned ... more >>
Comments: uhhh... Ok, i cant tell whether your trying to be sarcastic or serious... either way, I didnt mean to create stress... And im certainly not claiming FA for this, when I say most of the stuff out here has been climbed, I mean by people lonnng ago... before homes were up here, especially this section...
So, No, no "further illumination" is necessary... But some positive conversation is always welcome... this area doesnt see a ton of action, so its cool to see others who are down to get out there... more >>
Comments: Most of the problems have been done out here, even though they are not listed its likely this has been climbed a bunch. Can u post a photo? either way, cool to see people out there gittin some! PS - whats the saucer roof?
Comments: Justin, do you mean on the MP map feature? This boulder is directly adjacent to the handlebar Boulder. Hey when do you think you'll be up here? I'd be down to get out there if you're visiting! //Sulli
Comments: Cool! I hope it wasnt climbers who chipped it, that wouldnt be cool. An interesting note about this block, if this is where I think it is there is a chunk on the other side of this that fell off a couple years back during an earthquake. Its on the ground now next to the boulder, but we'd been climbing up here the day before, was nuts to see it a few days later...
Comments: This is probably the most visible stone on the ridge above the church if your coming in on 80 from the west. So to answer that question everyone likely asks when they see it "yes its goes" :)
Comments: Where do you get V-zero? This problem has no feet, and has bouted a multitude of people. Perhaps if you start way left and climb the downclimb its V0, but to try and downgrade the main line here is not right.
Comments: Choss??? There's not a loose grain on this thing! If anything this route can be slandered due to its sketchy landing, but to call it choss it just not accurate. Are you sure you're talking about the right boulder?
Comments: Dear Admin ... Would MP consider separating the Bar from the auburn cliffs/quarry section? These two areas are really two completely different zones ...
A. They cannot be accessed by the same approach, or parking area... not even close. Even though they seem close being across the river from each other, Access to each area is separated by a couple miles or more of driving and walking...
B. The Quarry is more rope climbs, the Bar is primarily bouldering; even though it does have a c... more >>
Comments: For anyone pondering, like I did, whether you can just throw down a pad and boulder these short lines, ... the answer is; not really. These lines, despite being short, are not boulder problems. If you climb here without a rope, these are free solos. The landings are sketchy, a ground fall here will likely result in something broken. And falling from some of the stuff further down into the canyon could result in one literally rolling into the river and being washed away. Bring a r... more >>
Comments: ... Im curious about the wicked steep boulder down and to the right of the bridge... It looks like a dicey solo but there's def a line going up the left super-steep side. I cant imagine it remains unsent... Does anyone have any info on this line?
Comments: You're right Brennan, this access point is indeed closer to this specific zone, but the guy who lives on the left with a boulder in his yard has been trouble when people park there and try to access the area through the notch ... I've parked at the end of the road that is left at the first roundabout and as long as you are out by dark I haven't had problems. But they close the gate at dusk... bottom line, access in all of the bouldering zones is a lil tricky, just gotta be cautious and respectfu... more >>
Comments: The true plumb on this face remains undone... while the other lines are def cool... there is a wicked double digit horror show going right up the middle... the holds are there, the line is clear... just needs a muster'd suitor.
Comments: This line is def v4 if you start from the far left and move all the way to the huge nob, aka alsteescreef at the far end of the traverse... the line is contrived to begin with because at any time you can top out.... but for this area it makes sense because its long and pumpy... by the way, im sure you checked out the 'real' line on this face? starting low at the turn moving up n right... it surely goes but could be in double digits...
also, you could remove a bush and add a cool hard start to t... more >>