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portion control


Member Since: Aug 31, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 26, 2014
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Point Rank: # 6,207
Total Points: 54
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 48 | Routes | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 23 | Stars 3 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Rocket Man (5.13d)
By: stow When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Lee I have some 6' beta for those moves from the jug I'm happy with if you want. More moves but I think somewhat less crimpy and reachy than what Brian N. does in the video. Let me know via PM.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Anaconda-Da-Vida (5.12c/d)
By: stow When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: I like Iron Butterfly. And I like this route. Another good but less popular one- shady in summer in the afternoon too. More d than c due to what (I think) was a hold breaking above the mantle ledge? Or maybe it always just a terrible crimp.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : The Skewer (5.12d)
By: stow When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: Not many people do this route -- possibly b/c of the spaced bolts and scary slightly lichen-y slabs.

I think this works to make it reasonable:

A short draw on the last bolt of the crack makes it easier to avoid foot entanglement as you enter the first slab.

A long sling with a short draw on the second slab bolt (so it's just hanging over the edge) means you can clip it from the top of the crack to protect the first slab and also the rope won't rub on the edge if you fall as you do the se... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Venus Wall : Neptune (5.13a)
By: stow When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Unfortunately the perfect little three finger incut RH crimp at the top deadpoint crux of Neptune (and Chippa) broke off Aug 25. Forensic analysis by the local rock doctors determine that it can't really be repaired since the hold is so small. The move has been done since the breakage short person's way (little harder) and tall way (reportedly quite a bit harder but doable).


Location: NH : Rumney : Venus Wall : Shame on a Chippa (5.13c)
By: stow When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: FYI - The crimp some people match above the 3rd (i think) draw exploded yesterday mid-match by strong Quebecois Alex. He said it is still doable but harder and more body tension-y as you can use it but can't really match anymore. I've got the pieces if anyone wants them for the Rumney hold museum or forensic reconstruction or a terrible paperweight or anything. Repair might be possible but would be very hard I would think b/c of the many pieces.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : The Prow (5.11d)
By: stow When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: Nice job Lee!
I have not been on this in a long long time. How much is fixed these days? I.e., how light was yr rack? Thanks.


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : The Noodle (5.12b)
By: stow When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: I got on this yesterday and was truly stumped at the top. Is there a knee bar up there? toe hooks? stem?


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Roaring Silence (5.13b)
By: stow When: May 15, 2011

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Comments: 1st, 2nd, 5th and 6th old fixed draws replaced by black-tubed Climb Tech permadraws on May 12, 2011. 5th clip an inch longer so should be slightly easier, and the runout to the chains maybe slightly less freaky without the nagging wondering about actual tensile strength of very old sun-bleached draws with grooved biners


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Dynosoar (5.13a)
By: stow When: May 15, 2011

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Comments: The 4 old fixed draws on Dyno-soar replaced by black-tubed Climb-Tech steel cable permadraws May 12, 2011. This should improve the safety on this route - the fixed draws were in bad shape - but be aware the new draws are harder to grab when working the route.