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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Jump Start (5.9)
By: Stich When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The offwidth part is only hard if you stay deep in the crack. There are face features on the right side of the wide with ample flakes and foot ledges to get up without resorting to chicken wings and foot stacks.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road : Saint Peter's Overlook : The Martyr (5.9)
By: Stich When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a reason that this area has not been all that popular over the years. For one, the approach hike is through a maze of dead trees and nasty undergrowth. At times the "trail" completely vanishes, so bush whacking is de rigeur. The downclimb is actually a bit sketchy, too, as the ledges are all down sloping rather than horizontal. If it was wet from a quick shower it would be none too fun. In all, you have to work a bit to get the climbing in.
Compare that to any number of other S. Platte... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9) : Photo
By: Stich When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's more of a fist crack, but it is friendly due to having some calcite deposits that are smoothed over.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Pangborn's Pinnacle : Center Dihedral (5.8)
By: Stich When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an excellent just under a half day outing on good rock with a mountaineering feel to it. The first two pitches comprise the best climbing.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Mt Thorodin : Northwest Ridge (5.7)
By: Stich When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.7 rating comes from the Lyons area guidebook, so I kept that in the description. Of course it's easy to miss the 5.7 territory, ha. Skeeter, I doubt anyone else will be up there anytime soon, so your cam will be relatively safe until your return.
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Location: Mike Lane : Misc. : Photo
By: Stich When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: She has that Eastern Bloc look.
Mike, you should make some Czech cookies with her and she'll lighten up. Make the hazel nut ones with dark chocolate. And get some of that plum liquor into her if you can.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Stich When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The funny thing about the descent for this and other routes like Rewritten is that it can drop just as much if not MORE rock careening down the talus slope. Who hasn't caused some kind of a rock to dislodge while hiking down? Who hasn't seen one cartwheeling way into the air to possibly bean someone on the trail below you?
Man, that is just the way it is in this area.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Break on Through (5.10b)
By: Stich When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch of this route is my favorite way to start "Long John Wall."
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Route 902 (5.7+)
By: Stich When: May 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For Pitch 2, after the first offwidth crux and gained the area above, Roland went out on the face on the left next to a very small tree. Here chickenheads galore made for a nice variation. Then you step out to the right back into the crack that takes you to the top.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Southern Comfort (5.9)
By: Stich When: May 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last pitch is the same as for Gobbler's Grunt, accept you bypass the belay for the start. The 5.8 hand crack at the start of pitch two widens up to chicken wing size right after you get in it, incidentally. The traverse after that is pretty wild!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Stich When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Devil's Thumb : Devil's Spiral (5.4) : Photo
By: Stich When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought he was Sadam's bitch.
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Location: Stonemaster Slide Show & Ta...
By: Stich When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Roy is the real deal. He's the guy wearing that cowboy hat everywhere. Used to guide in California, did Astroman several times. I could go on but then inaccuracies would come into play and Roy hates that. Ha. He's a modest guy.
We've been hanging for some time since meeting on the Taco. If you want to imagine his condition, he describes it pretty well on the thread. The essential thing is that he gets tendinitis at the drop of a hat and doesn't recover from it for at least a week. He can't use ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: Stich When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As Joshua mentioned, it's fun to finally locate this line yourself after collecting various bits of information over the year like "it can be seen from this hiking trail." We just hiked down to it today and it was cool confirming we picked the right drainage. No one on the ice when we were there, while Silver Cascade was quite popular today.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Falls (WI2-3)
By: Stich When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Go early, as it is a popular guided group destination.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Barney (5.9)
By: Stich When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are confused about the anchors, it is because they no longer exist. One possibility is to go left to the anchor of Freeform and use it to get down. Another is to go right following a nice, new bolted line that finishes up at a twin cold shut anchor. The moves to get there are well protected and not harder than 10a.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Vanishing Point (5.10d)
By: Stich When: Nov 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one never gets old.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Nightime Madness (5.7)
By: Stich When: Nov 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The upper chimney has a crack to the right on the lower half, taking small cams under 1/2 inch. If you bring a #6 Camelot, it wont protect the top part until the very end. This was easiest to climb facing to the left and using the face holds on that side of the chimney.
The white sling around the chockstone in the last chimney was still there as of 4-7-09.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Satyr's Asshole (5.10-)
By: Stich When: Nov 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Part of the reason the 10a finish at the disappearing crack is so hard it that the rock quality isn't that stellar. Your feet crumble off if you choose poorly. It's not as solid climbing as say "Climb of the Ancient Mariner." Go right at the end of the crack instead of straight up or left.
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Location: WiledHorse : old photos : Photo
By: Stich When: Oct 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, that's getting into Mexican sombrero wearing Spaghetti Western looking. Not so much the gay 80s stash.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Stich When: Oct 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The one leg of lamb chockstone near the bottom crux of pitch one will move in and out of its slot about three inches, but still won't come out. Did the second pitch for the first time yesterday and thought it was very interesting. It has some funky moves in there that get you thinking. Short and fun. You can rappell to the base with a single 60m rope from here or move down the ledge and use the other rap station.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Ragger Bagger (5.8+)
By: Stich When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the weirdest part to be just around the left of the first roof thing, as you have to put your arms deep in there to grip the edge of the crack. Kind of awkward.
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Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : ` : Photo
By: Stich When: Oct 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yay, Gigi!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Stich When: Oct 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first piece of pro is about 16 ft. up. Once you get it, move immediately right and up and out of the shallow dihedral. The holds are bigger. And I agree, Shane, Chockstone is harder.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Knight's Move (5.7)
By: Stich When: Oct 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: By comparison, P1 of "Purple Haze" at 5.7 is a lot more fun and clean. Not bad doing once, but a bit grungy. I ended up chimneying to get into the P2 V slot. Agree that combining P1 and P2 is the way to go. None of the rock at the top of P1 inspires confidence. It's a red, rotten band like you see all over Eldo.
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