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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Snuggles to Fall Crack (5.8+)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Mike, thanks for the work on the Snuggles anchors. All anchor replacement and upgrades, however, needs to be done through Bob Hostetler, the climber representative on the Colorado Springs Park and Rec board. We have an on-going approval process with the city of Colorado Springs to replace and upgrade all anchors, both protection and belay/rappel anchors. This is a managed process.
The Park and Rec doesn't want climbers just going out and replacing whatever they feel like doing. That might h... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, the boulders and little cliffs on top of Mt Manitou and Rocky Mountain. I went up there a lot in the late 1970s and early 1980s with Steve Cheyney, Jim Dunn, Brian Teale, and few other guys. Bouldered our brains out on that great PP granite. Mark Hesse did some roped routes on the bigger stuff there. Harvey Carter also climbed up there too in the 1960s. We also did problems on the best trailside boulders on the hike up Barr Trail and along the Manitou watershed road above Ute Pass Boulders... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Nathan! Thanks for your thoughts. If you check the above info for Greyrock it also says to plan on an hour hike to the cliff base and 45 minutes back. I was up there three times this year, carrying rope and a rack, and it took...about an hour! If you're carrying bivy gear and hiking at night, it's gonna take longer. As far as Red Rock Canyon, tell me one route besides Helios, which I added a bolt to last spring, which has a different bolt count than in the little climbing guide. I mean, fella... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : High H20 (5.10a/b)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll try to get out in the next week or two and pull those bolts and replace them with big glue-in bolts. Eventually all the anchors on the east side of the canyon will have to be replaced with glue-ins. Part of the problem is that there are some folks that insist on top-roping the routes with their rope through the anchors rather than through quickdraws. The action of the rope and the weight load weakens the placement over time, loosening the bolts.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Scarecrow (5.10b R)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, Bo. Jimmie Dunn and I did the first free ascent on the lead of Scarecrow in 1972. I led that first bit to the ledge, no pro, and belayed. JD led the upper crack. We had top-roped it before, but it was really loose.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jim Dunn and I replaced the anchor piton the other day. I placed a 5/8-inch sleeve bolt on the west side of the summit and drilled another hole to put a glue-in Petzl bolt in next week. It was pretty jingus with just the two old pitons on top.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Williams Canyon is not everyone's cup of tea. It's adventure sport climbing at its finest! Be prepared for the finest choss in the Pikes Peak region. You got to love loose, flakey limestone with tottering pillars, removable handholds, and rotten rock to climb at Williams. Ian and I did 20 or more routes here. Even a big one on The Temple, a massive 200-foot overhanging wall. Bring a helmet and a sense of adventure...if the place cleaned up, some of the routes are a lot like American Fork in Utah... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You'll have to wait for the names and grades until the new Elevenmile Canyon guidebook that Bob D'Antonio and I are doing comes out next spring...as for the hardware, all the routes have not been completely equipped yet. There are over 150 new routes in Elevenmile Canyon, most opened by Bob D', me, and friends, so this is the tip of the Icebox...best to just go climb and discover new stuff and leave it at that for now....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : Unknown Crack (5.10)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You'll have to wait for the name and grade until the new Elevenmile Canyon guidebook that Bob D'Antonio and I are doing comes out next spring....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : Unknown Arete (5.12a)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, yep. But you'll have to wait for the name and grade until the new Elevenmile Canyon guidebook that Bob D'Antonio and I are doing comes out next spring....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : Unknown (5.13)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did you do this route? FA by Ian Spencer-Green. You'll have to wait for the names and grades until the new Elevenmile Canyon guidebook that Bob D'Antonio and I are doing comes out next spring....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Aug 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's kind of funny to think of Turkey Rocks in a sport climbing way...basically most of the sport routes at Turkey are either 2 star, 1 star, or no-star climbs. Well, mostly no-star. Captain Hook and maybe another are okay routes but nothing to write home about. And who climbs them. I never see anyone on them. Sort of a waste of good bolts. They're really only significant because of the bolt wars. Good sport routes in the Platte, ya gotta go to Thunder Ridge or Devil's Head. Now that's sport cli... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: Stewart M. Green When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Bryan, yep it's that Stewart...isn't it? Ha. That Infidel is a proud route. I've had my eye on it for years....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: Stewart M. Green When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Kevin,
That closed road is the way I go into Sunshine and Couch Potatoes. Park on the Matakat Road and follow it through the big burn. Easy to see where you're going since the rocks are ahead. Stay on the ridge as much as possible. The bitch is coming out the uphill at the end of a long day.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Erin,
Yeah, it's 4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. A Bill Schmasser route. On reclimbing it this summer, I think it's 5.9 for tallish people and 5.10- for shorter ones. Kind of a crimp move or layback that crack....
The new Rock Climbing Colorado book, 2nd edition, will be out next spring and have all the routes on Pine Cone Dome as well as lots of new stuff in the canyon.
Stewart
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the update on your anchors. It makes sense to me. I wasn't specifically referring to you as oddballs cause I don't know you, but in a generic sense. The park and rec tends to think of climbers sometimes as renegades and oddballs and we certainly don't want to be perceived that way because it leads to regulation...
Anyway, whether there are new anchors up there or not will not lead to a lot of top-ropers coming along and hogging the first pitch of The Army Route. I mean the thing is 5... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, I don't have authority in the area. I do have a relationship with the city, however, that I have worked to foster so that we can climb and continue to climb without beauracratic interference.
Yes, there is no law or rule against placing bolts at either the Garden or North Cheyenne Canon. Red Rock Canyon is a different matter because it was late on the scene and the master plan allows only for measured and controlled development of climbing routes. I have city ordinance 9.9.104 in front ... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent of this route was by Ed Webster solo, I think in 1976. I was climbing Whimsical Dream while he aid rope-soloed it. I have photographs of him on it. We drove up there together. He wanted some aid practice. Jimmy Dunn did not do the first free ascent of this either.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry England. There is no proper authority to place bolts in North Cheyenne Canon. There is no law or rule against it either. It is not ILLEGAL. Bolting is not encouraged but it is not ILLEGAL. The city of Colorado Springs is not in the business of legislating climber safety. It is up to climbers to reach a consensus as to placing bolts...or removing them. Chopping bolts ends up damaging the rock more than leaving them.
If anyone wishes to place bolts in the Canon...or remove them...they coul... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Village Idiot (5.9)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack above is 5.8. A second pitch to the summit. There's a bolt somewhere up there too. As far as Village Idiot, you can fiddle in some small nuts. Feel free to do that. No bolt chopping however!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Southeast Chimney Route (5.10 A1 PG13)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The short overhanging off-width on the first pitch or second, depending on where you belay, was done by Jim Dunn, Bill Westbay, and myself during the sixth ascent of the tower in November 1971. We called it 5.9+. It was unprotected then.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Max's Mayhem (5.10 PG13)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great story Max. That's was a heinous route back in the day...well, still is! Jim Dunn and I first climbed it with pitons for aid in 1970. The next year we free-climbed the second pitch up the chimney. It was pretty dang loose then too...
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : For Turkeys Only (5.11d)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just talked to Jim Dunn about the FA of For Turkey's Only. Jim said he did the first ascent followed by Earl Wiggins; a couple days later he did it again and was followed by Bryan Becker; and just after that he led it again and Ed Webster followed it. He said each time though he had to pull each of the three climbers up the roof pitch! He also said each time he led the roof with only a #9 Hex placed endwise. The complete ascent of the route's 3 pitches to the top of t... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Outre Salvo (5.14a)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job, Ben! I'm glad you were able to get this project done.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep. It's sort of a new route. We put that one up back in January. Unnamed and unrated. Look around for the other new ones. We've been keeping them off the radar for now because there will still be a few more to go up...trying to get a little more adventure at ole Red Rock Canyon.
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