Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Spillway/Camp 2
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hate to break the news, buddy, but those boulders are not untouched. A bunch of guys from Colorado Springs, including Bob D'Antonio, Pete Gallagher, Brian Teale, Steve Cheyney, Ian Spencer-Green, the late Jack Mileski, and myself, have climbed on most of those campground boulders starting back in the early 1970s. The ethic and tradition of bouldering in Elevenmile Canyon has always been to leave the stuff unnamed and unrated so everyone who comes along can have a chance to climb problems like ... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Knome Dome aka Water Dome : Heels over Heads (5.10b)
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Steve Cheyney put the 2 bolts in the lower slab below the roof back in the mid-eighties, so they are not exactly new....
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Knome Dome aka Water Dome : Water Babies (5.11a)
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is called Water Babies. FA by Stewart Green and Brian Shelton, 2006. Thin technical edging up the middle of the slab.
|
Location: Joshua Balke : rampart range : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The backside (north) of Scorpio Dome...
|
Location: Joshua Balke : rampart range : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is Vicodin Rock...
|
Location: Joshua Balke : rampart range : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Simian Slabs.
|
Location: Joshua Balke : rampart range : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Simian Slabs.
|
Location: Joshua Balke : rampart range : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the backside of Rehab Mountain near Scorpio Dome.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did that bolt ladder up the east face back in the late seventies. Those pins were pretty manky then...I hate to think of them now. Do it in 2 pitches. First pitch up to a stance below the ladder. Second pitch is clipping bolts in aiders. I remember it as kinda fun, but also scary.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alex, thanks for the update on those anchors atop West Point Crack/Kor's Korner pillar. Myself and a couple other climbers replaced the manky anchors atop there 3 years ago. Two big bolts with Metolius hangers and later I added chain. Someone took the chain shortly afterward and put slings on the bolts. I will go back and replace the missing bolt, maybe with a big glue-in and add chain again. Brad Saren also wants to go up and replace the anchors on the top of Kor's Korner's first pitch, so mayb... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Spray (5.13b/c)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Dec 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: First free ascent by Ian Spencer-Green in 1995.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle : Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route (5.11c)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Nov 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is named the Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route. First ascent was by Ron Olevsky and Joy Ungritch (5.7 A2) on May 2, 1985. Ron named the spire after a horse he was riding on a reconnaisance mission reared and fell backwards, pinning his thigh to the ground and giving him a Charley Horse. First free ascent was by Ken Sims, Mark Hesse, and Maura Hanning-Sims in 1995. Ken also did a 5.12 finger crack variation on first pitch on the face right of the regular dihedral. The first belay is in a window... more >>
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of November 1, the road to Cactus Cliff will be closed by the BLM. If you want to climb at Cactus Cliff or Spiney Ridge, park at the new spacious parking lot at The Bank campground. Hike down the road and follow the trail toward 2150 Wall. A new trail constructed by the Rocky Mountain Field Institute cuts right just above the bottom of the gulch and follows a bench east to Cactus Cliff. Hiking distance is about a mile and takes 20 or so minutes.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Solar Slab : Tava (5.10b)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA by Stewart Green and Brian Shelton, 2004.
This was the first route on Solar Slab. Named Tava, the Ute Indian word for "sun" and often given to Pikes Peak.
Watch for wasps in that good hole!
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishi... (5.10a/b)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually called "Trout Fishing in America" or in Rick's book, "Trout Fishing." It was opened by the ubiquitous Ken Trout. Of course Trout Fishing in America was a famous counter-culture book by Richard Bratigan back about 1970. And I agree with Mike, this offers fun pocket-pulling in a great setting. The only thing I don't like are the open shuts at the top.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Brett. I agree with your Snubnose assessment. It has gotten harder. I was thinking of 9+, so 10a is close enough. The holds have smoothed out a bit. Most of the Ripple Wall routes have gotten harder. Like The Pipe Route...I would call it 5.8 now. Likewise, Jumping the Gun maybe a grade harder. Sandstone...you gotta love it...always changing. Just wait til the next rainstorm! Oh, congratulations, Brett, on being the first to climb ALL the routes (except that sick project). Great job.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Sentinel and Specimen Rocks
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is not called Tenney Crags. Tenney Crags is the summit of the mountain high above. These are Sentinel and Specimen Rocks. There is a climber trail to Specimen and there are many established routes that have been done in the past 50 years. So, it is not a great unknown crag or area. The directions to access the cliffs are way off. It is advisable to approach by parking lower on High Drive, and hiking up the Palmer-Red Rock Loop before cutting up a long steep ridge on a climber/mineral c... more >>
|
Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Rednekk Justus (5.10+)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The actual spelling of the route name is: "Rednekk Justus."
|
Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Pony Express aka Bunny Ramp (5.6)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is called Bunny Ramp...2 pitches...1st is the 5.6 open book. 2nd is 5.9+ and traverses up right, squeezes through a hole, and finishes atop the cliff. FA: Rusty Baillie and Jenny Goldberg, 1978.
|
Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Four-Wheel Low (5.10)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is named Four-Wheel Low (5.10+). First ascent by Matt Lisenby, Kim Lisenby, and Pete Clark, 1999.
|
Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Airport Tower (5.9 R)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Aug 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slacklining is prohibited in Colorado National Monument, so it's probably just as well that the bolts were chopped, otherwise draconian measures as those at Arches after the Delicate Arch fiasco could be instituted.... Although, rappel anchors are probably needed if they're missing. I heard that Harvey Carter climbed it back in the sixties...I'll ask him, and see if he remembers.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Upper Arch (5.9)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Aug 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The middle route is named Escorndido (5.9+). The left route is Junior Jules Doinks a Digit (5.10a) and is a great 2-pitch line. The right route is Innerspace Arch (5.9+). The far left easy slab route is Most Toppest (5.5).
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Happy Trails (5.6)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, those photos of the kid are of the route farther right of Happy Trails. That's the first pitch of EZ Street, a 3-pitch route that John Myers, Ed Russell and I put up in 1979 without bolts. Now there are 3 bolts on pitch 1, which is 5.4. Second pitch pulls the overhang above at 5.6 and also now has bolts. Third pitch climbs the upper headwall to the summit.
Happy Trails should have 6 bolts. Again, the three of us climbed the lower part of the route to the upper slab and then traversed up r... more >>
|
Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : Clast Action (5.9)
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually called "Clast Action." A clast is a broken fragment of rock, and if you notice here, broken fragments are embedded everywhere. First ascent by Mark Hesse and Dennis Jackson.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End : Anaconda (5.11c)
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right Pete, we were certainly "scaring" the rock when those old pitons were removed. Ha. Good one. The rock was sooooo scared. Yep, Brian and Brad crowbarred them out. Now there are good safe anchors at both of Anaconda's belays, and climbers can breathe more easily up there...
Have you ever removed an old piton from sandstone? Have you been going out and replacing all those old dangerous anchors at the Garden of the Gods with brand new stainless-steel state-of-the-art 1/2" bolt anchors? Hmmmm ... more >>
|
RSS Feed
