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Member Since: Dec 4, 2002
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Stewart M. Green

Point Rank: # 1,963
Total Points: 330
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 3
12 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Stewart M. Green been climbing?










Contributions


All 328 | Routes 6 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 230 | Posts 79 | Stars 7 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: Over the next month or so, we--the members of the Red Rock Canyon Climbing Committee--will be replacing many of the ring anchors at Red Rock Canyon, especially on popular routes, with regular hangers. There is a growing problem at the park with climbers who insist on top-roping with their rope directly through the rings rather than with their own quickdraws, slings, and locking carabiners. Besides being unsafe since the anchors bolts are being loaded with a 100% load, it is wearing out the steel... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road : Cathedral Park
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: It looks great from the road, but the granite is generally Pikes Peak choss. I climbed a dozen routes here in the early '70s with Doug Snively and Billy Westbay. The granite is very crystalline and granular so jamming is painful. Plus much of the rock crumbles when you step on it. Lastly...the approach is on private property. Good luck on it but there's lots of better rock to climb on then Cathedral Park.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Coyote Wall : Pete's Classic Corner (5.8)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: This climb is currently rated 5.7.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Wiggins' Wall : The Youth (5.9)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: Ya got the old grade from the FA on here when it was still loose and evolving. 5.9 now, maybe 5.9+ at the crux if you're short.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Bound in Blood (5.8)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: This one has gotten way easy. 5.8 is the new rating.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Solar Slab : Up Until Sunrise (5.11b/c)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: Have you actually climbed this one? The current rating is 12a.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Undulating Dingo (5.8-)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: We're calling this one 5.8- now....


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Arapiles (5.9+)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: This might be 5.10a now but probably 5.9+....


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : Jason's Argonaut (5.10a)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 23, 2008

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Comments: This has gotten lots easier. The last time I climbed it I thought it was borderline 5.9, maybe solid 5.9 for 2 moves for a short person.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 17, 2008

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Comments: The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Southwest Face / Finger Fac... : Place in the Sun (5.8)
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 22, 2008

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Comments: I climbed this variation last November and thought it was 5.10a. The bolts, however, are not very good. If this is going to remain a route, they need to be pulled and replaced with beefier hardware. The question is: Do we really need having variations to routes like this one? There could be a lot of 2 bolt variations on the Finger Face. I'm of the opinion that it should be pulled.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Mighty Young Joe aka Captai... (5.8)
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 21, 2008

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Comments: This route was climbed before 1977. I believe Brian Teale and Dan Morrison did in about 1974...


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Pagan Wisdom (5.13a)
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 21, 2008

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Comments: First ascent by Ian Spencer-Green 1995.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine... : The Nose (5.9+)
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 12, 2008

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Comments: This is actually called "The Nose" (Same name as the formation). Harvey Carter did the first ascent of it in the 1950s on aid. Doug Snively and I did the first free ascent of it in 1971. The old pin welded in the crack was there then. We climbed all the way to the top of the buttress, but most folks lower from the pin now. Around the corner to the left is "Alabama Crack." There are two starts to it. Climb up and left from the slab below the Nose roof to a belay shelf below Alabama Crack or from ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Westbay Wall
By: Stewart M. Green When: Apr 22, 2008

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Comments: We checked this bolt yesterday. It is loose. We tightened it down in the hole and it is fine now. We will replace it sometime in the next couple months with a glue-in bolt. The sandstone on the east side of Red Rock Canyon is not great quality rock. Holes drilled in it tend to be slightly oversized.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : De Beque Canyon : Exit 49 : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: Mar 3, 2008

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Comments: Yep, this is Rimrock Spire. Right off the east side of I-70. And yes Harvey did 2 routes on it and Fred Knapp, Sharpend guru, did them both free at 5.10d. BingBong is on the right side and Northwest is on the left side. Actually pretty good climbs if you can put up with the highway noise.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : River Road Dihedrals : Peapod Crack (aka Bloody Kn... (5.9)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jan 14, 2008

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Comments: Steve Cheyney did the FA of this route as well as gave it the name Bloody Knees in either 1970 or 1971. He also did a couple other routes here back then.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 11, 2007

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Comments: I have the bolt that was pulled out. Apparently some climbers got on the route before the epoxy was completely set and loosened it and then removed it. We left a note on the bolt saying not to use it for at least 2 days. Anyway we might just place an Army angle in the hole for now. The Visitor Center is wrong about drilling holes. There is no regulation at the GofG that says that holes cannot be drilled not bolts or pitons placed. It is actively discouraged however.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes... : Reality Check (5.8)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: Matt, see my comment at the Silver Cascade main page. That anchor is not the anchor for the climb. I took the hanger off...again...and will return to chop that extra bolt. It ain't needed. From that bolt, climb up right to another bolt and climb easy rock to the cliff top and a tree belay. Then hike off south. Silver Cascade does not need convenience belays like this one which was put in by Travis Nolan in 1995, the year after I did the FA of the route.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes...
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: The anchor for Reality Check is the tree at the top of the cliff. I took that hanger off that extra bolt this past July. Travis Nolan placed the anchor the year (1995) after I did the FA of the route. It is simply a convenience anchor and is not needed. I've been meaning to chop that extra bolt for awhile and patch the hole. Likewise this route has sprouted all kinds of extra unnecessary bolts, including the first 2. So climb the route to the top of the cliff and hike off south around the slab t... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 2, 2007

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Comments: Yep, someone pulled the glue-in bolt out a few days after it was set. Now there is the possibility that Potholes may be closed and all the fixed protection removed because of the increased risk of someone hitting the sidewalk and breaking a leg. The bolt was originally placed to avoid that scenario. The city parks dept. was getting tired of having a climber fall off that route once or twice a year and breaking a leg. They recommended that we add a bolt or the route would be closed.

Anyone have... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 14, 2007

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Comments: Hey Dale,

I have a hard time discerning exactly what route you mean on Pine Cone Dome from the photograph, but I think what you climbed is "Harder Than It Looks" (5.10a). The route has 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor; some cams can give extra pro. Bill Schmausser did the FA. Fun climb with a short crux.

Stewart


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: The bottom bolt on Potholes was replaced on Monday, September 10 by Brian Shelton and Stewart Green with a 4-inch-long, 1/2-inch stainless steel Petzl eyebolt. The previous 1/2-inch bolt had slowly worked loose (although it still took a lot of work to extricate it from the hole) over the last 3 years. It was loosened in 2004 after being in place only a few days when someone decided to try to remove it (see above thread), but all they succeeded in doing was making it unsafe. The new glue-in is a ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : Practice Slab (5.8)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: On Monday, September 10, Brian Shelton, CJ Sidebottom, and I installed a new anchor for Practice Slab since the existing old one is unsafe. We glued in two 1/2-inch eyebolts and a 1/2-inch Army angle. The existing anchor was left as a back up. Do not thread your rope directly through the eyebolts for top-roping, instead used carabiners and slings or quickdraws to create an equalized anchor from the three pieces. Top-roping directly through the eyebolts wears them out very quickly!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Aug 28, 2007

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Comments: The anchor at the end of pitch 1 is on the anchor replacement to-do list. Hopefully it will be improved and modernized this autumn after Climbing Mag and Petzl sends some new hardware for the effort.


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