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Member Since: Dec 4, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Stewart M. Green


Point Rank: # 1,760
Total Points: 311
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 2
10 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Stewart M. Green been climbing?










Contributions


All (304) | Routes (6) | Areas (1) | Photos (5) | Comments (211) | Posts (74) | Stars (7) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes...
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: The anchor for Reality Check is the tree at the top of the cliff. I took that hanger off that extra bolt this past July. Travis Nolan placed the anchor the year (1995) after I did the FA of the route. It is simply a convenience anchor and is not needed. I've been meaning to chop that extra bolt for awhile and patch the hole. Likewise this route has sprouted all kinds of extra unnecessary bolts, including the first 2. So climb the route to the top of the cliff and hike off south around the slab t... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 2, 2007

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Comments: Yep, someone pulled the glue-in bolt out a few days after it was set. Now there is the possibility that Potholes may be closed and all the fixed protection removed because of the increased risk of someone hitting the sidewalk and breaking a leg. The bolt was originally placed to avoid that scenario. The city parks dept. was getting tired of having a climber fall off that route once or twice a year and breaking a leg. They recommended that we add a bolt or the route would be closed.

Anyone have... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 14, 2007

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Comments: Hey Dale,

I have a hard time discerning exactly what route you mean on Pine Cone Dome from the photograph, but I think what you climbed is "Harder Than It Looks" (5.10a). The route has 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor; some cams can give extra pro. Bill Schmausser did the FA. Fun climb with a short crux.

Stewart


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: The bottom bolt on Potholes was replaced on Monday, September 10 by Brian Shelton and Stewart Green with a 4-inch-long, 1/2-inch stainless steel Petzl eyebolt. The previous 1/2-inch bolt had slowly worked loose (although it still took a lot of work to extricate it from the hole) over the last 3 years. It was loosened in 2004 after being in place only a few days when someone decided to try to remove it (see above thread), but all they succeeded in doing was making it unsafe. The new glue-in is a ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : Practice Slab (5.8)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: On Monday, September 10, Brian Shelton, CJ Sidebottom, and I installed a new anchor for Practice Slab since the existing old one is unsafe. We glued in two 1/2-inch eyebolts and a 1/2-inch Army angle. The existing anchor was left as a back up. Do not thread your rope directly through the eyebolts for top-roping, instead used carabiners and slings or quickdraws to create an equalized anchor from the three pieces. Top-roping directly through the eyebolts wears them out very quickly!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Aug 28, 2007

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Comments: The anchor at the end of pitch 1 is on the anchor replacement to-do list. Hopefully it will be improved and modernized this autumn after Climbing Mag and Petzl sends some new hardware for the effort.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes... : Reality Check (5.8)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Aug 28, 2007

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Comments: It is over-bolted now. When I put up this route, I placed 5 bolts total. Now there is 8 or 9, which makes it laboratory safe for even beached whales.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes...
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 24, 2007

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Comments: Josh,
I am revising RCCO right now. Rather finishing it. When I get back to COS next week (stuck in Yakima right now waiting for a new truck engine), I will email you the revised descriptions and ratings. Climbed most of the routes two weeks ago...S


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Spillway/Camp 2
By: Stewart M. Green When: Jun 18, 2007

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Comments: I hate to break the news, buddy, but those boulders are not untouched. A bunch of guys from Colorado Springs, including Bob D'Antonio, Pete Gallagher, Brian Teale, Steve Cheyney, Ian Spencer-Green, the late Jack Mileski, and myself, have climbed on most of those campground boulders starting back in the early 1970s. The ethic and tradition of bouldering in Elevenmile Canyon has always been to leave the stuff unnamed and unrated so everyone who comes along can have a chance to climb problems like ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Knome Dome aka Water Dome : Heels over Heads (5.10b)
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 28, 2007

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Comments: I think Steve Cheyney put the 2 bolts in the lower slab below the roof back in the mid-eighties, so they are not exactly new....


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Knome Dome aka Water Dome : Water Babies (5.11a)
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007

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Comments: This is called Water Babies. FA by Stewart Green and Brian Shelton, 2006. Thin technical edging up the middle of the slab.


Location: Joshua Balke : rampart range : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007

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Comments: The backside (north) of Scorpio Dome...


Location: Joshua Balke : rampart range : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007

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Comments: I think this is Vicodin Rock...


Location: Joshua Balke : rampart range : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007

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Comments: This is Simian Slabs.


Location: Joshua Balke : rampart range : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007

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Comments: This is Simian Slabs.


Location: Joshua Balke : rampart range : Photo
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 27, 2007

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Comments: This is the backside of Rehab Mountain near Scorpio Dome.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower
By: Stewart M. Green When: May 18, 2007

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Comments: I did that bolt ladder up the east face back in the late seventies. Those pins were pretty manky then...I hate to think of them now. Do it in 2 pitches. First pitch up to a stance below the ladder. Second pitch is clipping bolts in aiders. I remember it as kinda fun, but also scary.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Apr 24, 2007

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Comments: Alex, thanks for the update on those anchors atop West Point Crack/Kor's Korner pillar. Myself and a couple other climbers replaced the manky anchors atop there 3 years ago. Two big bolts with Metolius hangers and later I added chain. Someone took the chain shortly afterward and put slings on the bolts. I will go back and replace the missing bolt, maybe with a big glue-in and add chain again. Brad Saren also wants to go up and replace the anchors on the top of Kor's Korner's first pitch, so mayb... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Spray (5.13b/c)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Dec 8, 2006

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Comments: First free ascent by Ian Spencer-Green in 1995.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle : Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route (5.11c)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Nov 16, 2006

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Comments: This route is named the Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route. First ascent was by Ron Olevsky and Joy Ungritch (5.7 A2) on May 2, 1985. Ron named the spire after a horse he was riding on a reconnaisance mission reared and fell backwards, pinning his thigh to the ground and giving him a Charley Horse. First free ascent was by Ken Sims, Mark Hesse, and Maura Hanning-Sims in 1995. Ken also did a 5.12 finger crack variation on first pitch on the face right of the regular dihedral. The first belay is in a window... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 25, 2006

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Comments: As of November 1, the road to Cactus Cliff will be closed by the BLM. If you want to climb at Cactus Cliff or Spiney Ridge, park at the new spacious parking lot at The Bank campground. Hike down the road and follow the trail toward 2150 Wall. A new trail constructed by the Rocky Mountain Field Institute cuts right just above the bottom of the gulch and follows a bench east to Cactus Cliff. Hiking distance is about a mile and takes 20 or so minutes.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Solar Slab : Tava (5.10b)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 17, 2006

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Comments: FA by Stewart Green and Brian Shelton, 2004.

This was the first route on Solar Slab. Named Tava, the Ute Indian word for "sun" and often given to Pikes Peak.

Watch for wasps in that good hole!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishi... (5.10a/b)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 11, 2006

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Comments: This route is actually called "Trout Fishing in America" or in Rick's book, "Trout Fishing." It was opened by the ubiquitous Ken Trout. Of course Trout Fishing in America was a famous counter-culture book by Richard Bratigan back about 1970. And I agree with Mike, this offers fun pocket-pulling in a great setting. The only thing I don't like are the open shuts at the top.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 16, 2006

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Comments: Thanks, Brett. I agree with your Snubnose assessment. It has gotten harder. I was thinking of 9+, so 10a is close enough. The holds have smoothed out a bit. Most of the Ripple Wall routes have gotten harder. Like The Pipe Route...I would call it 5.8 now. Likewise, Jumping the Gun maybe a grade harder. Sandstone...you gotta love it...always changing. Just wait til the next rainstorm! Oh, congratulations, Brett, on being the first to climb ALL the routes (except that sick project). Great job.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Sentinel and Specimen Rocks
By: Stewart M. Green When: Sep 16, 2006

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Comments: This area is not called Tenney Crags. Tenney Crags is the summit of the mountain high above. These are Sentinel and Specimen Rocks. There is a climber trail to Specimen and there are many established routes that have been done in the past 50 years. So, it is not a great unknown crag or area. The directions to access the cliffs are way off. It is advisable to approach by parking lower on High Drive, and hiking up the Palmer-Red Rock Loop before cutting up a long steep ridge on a climber/mineral c... more >>


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