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Member Since: Feb 21, 2008
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,057
Total Points: 597
Last Year: 51
Last 30 Days: 0
25 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Stevie Nacho been climbing?










Contributions


All 248 | Routes 16 | Areas 2 | Photos 60 | Page Improvements | Comments 107 | Posts 47 | Stars 16 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Magic Circus (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: The Wizards Chin is well worth climbing. I grinded a bunch of huge gear through there, and didn't use any. If anybody is interested in climbing this cool formation, take a #4 camalot, three #3 camalots, a #2 camalot, and a #1 camalot. Leave the small stuff and nuts on the ground. A sling or two and some draws for the last two bolts of Bright And Shining Lie are also nice. I found it better to finish on the Bright and Shining Lie rather than doing the Wasatch Crunch Fest... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: I recently climbed this magical route for the second time and personally believe those pins are not a big deal. By the time you get to the second pitch corner, it feels like 5.0 If those pins are really loose try to tap them in. If the pin remains loose, pull it and try to fit a nut. If a nut doesn't fit, send a new pin home. Bolts should never be added to this section.

SN


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall : Perseverance Bulge Crack (5.9)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: Really fun trad route. Large cams are not mandatory, yet nice to have. It is the difference between placing arm deep #3 camalots or easily placing larger pieces like a #3.5 or #4 camalot. Basically, if you own those larger pieces, I would recommend bringing them. If not, you can still get it done.

SN


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Rappel Wall Area : The Adventure Route (5.9+)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 30, 2009

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Comments: I bolted that arete. Big 1/2" bolts so enjoy!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 30, 2009

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Comments: I purpose we should all "adopt a route." Instead of relying on the blood, sweat and toil of a few, we should all choose a route and fix it. Learn how to fix bolts, pick a route, and fix that route. Just like the highways, "Adopt a Route."


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Ventral Fin (5.10 A2-3) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: What a picture! How about some more or a comment about the first ascent? "You give an inch we want a mile"

-TDA


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Ventral Fin (5.10 A2-3)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 28, 2009

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Comments: The bolts are all new as of 2009, but there are a few old bolts in which we couldn't remove. Please take the necessary tools to "yank" these and patch the old holes.

Kudos to the Smoot brothers for the lasso on the fourth pitch. I'm sure it will remain one of my most mememorable moments in that canyon. It makes me want to go climb Nob Job.


-TDA


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Bowling Alley : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: May 28, 2009

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Comments: Those bolts are bomber. I placed some of those bolts. You should enjoy the doubt the Bowling Alley gives. Instead of being scared, you should add another 1/2" bolt and call it good. I love this little crag.


=TDA


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Apr 1, 2009

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Comments: Hey Monty,

That looks like fun. Whats a few golf balls compared to the thousands of climbers that frequent this part of the desert.

I know its litter, but it doesn't compare to the spraying of routes on the internet which in return leads to more crowds.

Happy climbing and golfing!

TDA


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gargoyle Wall : Cloister (5.11a)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 27, 2009

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Comments: I am really interested in somebody elses opinion of this route. Has anybody out there climbed this? This may be my favorite off-width route in wonderful LCC. I added a new bolt and chains to the anchor. The one single lead bolt is junk, but after finding that I could back it up with gear I decided not to replace it. I can't wait to do this again.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 15, 2009

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Comments: I was at Crescent Crack Buttress this weekend and discovered a chiseled boulder at the intersection of the trail where you go left to Crescent Crack Buttress or right to the Egg. The rock has two arrows with black tar in them and the words "Hong" and "Egg" chiseled in. It looks as though the criminal didn't finish carving "Crescent Crack Buttress" in. Maybe their wrist was tired. I've been climbing here since 1994 and I've never seen this graffiti.

THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE! PLEASE STOP!

Li... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Tower : East Face : Eagle Terrace (5.10b) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jan 27, 2009

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Comments: Does Luke have enough "drawls?"


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Spanish Fork Canyon : Spanish Fork Canyon / Hwy 6... : The Pricecicle (WI4)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jan 27, 2009

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Comments: Hey Mr. Bones,

Although Frozen Assets is a noble objective, one of which I would drive hours to complete, we didn't top out the route. If you remember, we were blown with warm wind,melted off the thing, and robbed of the last two pitches. This is similiar to that of the Great Ampitheater Gulley the same year. Another possible good time thwarted by warm weather. Nothing like ice climbing is the blazing sun with really warm weather.
Need I emphasize again that ice climbing is fun, yet very d... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Spanish Fork Canyon : Spanish Fork Canyon / Hwy 6... : The Pricecicle (WI4)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jan 23, 2009

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Comments: Yes I did find some poop near the poopcicle. That poop belonged to Bill Bones. After getting the courage to aid/ice climb the bottom 20' of this crapcicle, he screamed down to me in horror. After removing myself from a cocoon of down and highway noise, I realized Bill was asking me for assistance. He wanted me to tie the powerdrill to his hall line. I know that cordless drills don't last in the cold, however Bill has devised a plan to keep the battery warm. He keep the battery in his "warm... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Spanish Fork Canyon : Spanish Fork Canyon / Hwy 6... : The Pricecicle (WI4)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jan 8, 2009

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Comments: If poop froze, Bill Bones would send his picks into it and call it good. This guy, Bill Bones, has a constant frozen wood for anything cold and climbable. One must commend him on his enthusiam, yet we must help him understand that skiing is more fun and much more consistant. Bill Bones lived in Las Vegas for years, yet managed to climb more ice that most northerners. Once again Bill, not all frozen poop is good.

-The Nacho


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Ice Falls : The Leisure Route (5.8)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Luke, you hit it head on regarding my "vision" for this route. I wanted to keep it as old school as possible. Its great to climb easy terrain yet be concerned for your life. The only section of this route that could be dangerous is the easy 5.6 at the bottom. The Leisure route will keep people on their toes and possibly able them for adventures in the desert. A definate must do.

James, Thanks for your comment on this rad route. Please go back when you aren't coming back from an injury. ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Squeeze My Lemon (5.7) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 13, 2008

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Comments: Is this serious? I've done this route a bunch with a single rope and never thought I needed this. I'm sure this is a joke, if not...the rope should be removed.

TDA


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Death of a Monarch (5.8+ X)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 10, 2008

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Comments: Hey Luke!
I agree that this route is really good. I think I snapped that photo of John Star. I don't think you should add any bolts, this route protects where you need it too. I didn't feel it to be dangerous, so you should keep it in its original state.

Happy Times!

TDA


Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 26, 2008

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Comments: Way better than the Rodeo Wall. This place can provide some fun climbing, but should not be a destination. The routes are well bolted with new bolts and hanger, to protect the sometimes greasy hand and footholds. Its fun for a day or so.

TDA


Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield : Far Right (Warmup Area) : Hook It (5.9)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 26, 2008

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Comments: Good but the moves can be greasy!

TDA


Location: WY : Teton Canyon : Main Wall : Afternoon Delight (P1) (5.9)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 26, 2008

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Comments: I vote this really good route should be rated 5.10a


TDA


Location: WY : Teton Canyon : Main Wall : Z-Crack (5.9+)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 26, 2008

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Comments: I led this really fun climb in one pitch with a 60 meter rope. We walked off to the west. This route is really good, yet you should bring a big rack if leading it in one pitch. I ran out of gear and also gas, at the top 20'. Save a yellow metolius for the top. You know when you use it. Ignore the chain belay and walk off. Once again, really good.

TDA

p.s. I agree with Jeff


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 19, 2008

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Comments: Hey LDS Climber,

I agree with your actions. Those bolts DID take the spice out of this Merrill Bitter classic. Its great to see there are still routes that aspiring climbers can "sack up" to lead and do NOT have the convienance of bailing to a bolt. What you did was just and you have my support.

Sincerely,

Troy D. Anderson
Victor, Idaho


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Minions of Chaos Area : Minions of Chaos (5.10+)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 11, 2008

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Comments: Finally this route got posted so I can spray how damned good it is. I've done it twice and believe it too be one of the best multi-pitch routes in LCC. Move for move the sport pitch and last pitch handcrack are ultra-classic! DO IT!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Playing Hooky Var. (5.8)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Sep 18, 2008

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Comments: ten bucks says this has been done back in the day. Come on you "old timers" you know you've sent this in the Chuck Taylors. I'm talking to you Smoot Brothers, Kim Miller, Tyler Phillips, James Garrett, Doug Heinrich, Luke Douglas, Dennis Turnville, Jansen Gunderson, Mark Bennett, Nate Brown, George Lowe, Richard Green, Greg Lowe, Guate Garcia, and don't forget Tony Calderone.

TDA


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