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Member Since: Feb 21, 2008
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Stevie Nacho

Point Rank: # 1,080
Total Points: 642
Last Year: 47
Last 30 Days: 8
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Stevie Nacho been climbing?










Contributions


All 277 | Routes 17 | Areas 2 | Photos 65 | Page Improvements | Comments 117 | Posts 59 | Stars 17 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Intensive Care Slab : Intensive Care (5.11a R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: Hey Mike,

Don't sweat checking out the last bolt. We're going to stuff in a rawl when we go up on this slab again.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Pebbles and Bambam (5.9)
By: Stevie Nacho When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: After the third bolt, go left into the black water streak. If you look directly up, you'll see a bolt really high. This bolt is an added bolt that really doesn't make sense, don't run it out to here! There is also a new "calderone" route to the left. Since I last did this route, it was obvious climbing with following the bolts. Now, you have to decipher which bolts to climb to. Anyhow, this route is fun if you can figure out the original bolt line to follow.

TO CLIMB THE ORIGINAL PEBBELS... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Cashmere Crack (5.10+)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: I'm with Durf, most all the offwidths in LCC are sandbagged. He's just keepin with the tradition.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Unknown Slab (5.10)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: This route has cleaned up nicely. I think its softer 5.10 because I led it bobble headed and out of balance due to a bad head cold. Take a medium sized cam and a runner for the moves before the last bolt.
Thanks to whomever put is all the new belays.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Bowling Alley : North Wash Bouldering : ... : Punching Bag (V1+)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 18, 2010

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Comments: Really??????? When I climbed in C-town, it was about being crazy and adventurous. Come on boys, climb some real rock.


-TDA


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Bowling Alley : Main Area : Never Again (5.8-)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 6, 2010

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Comments: Its great to see that some climbers a.k.a vertical construction workers, are enjoying the bowling alley. What a fun crag. I like that a roadside crag can bring so much adventure. I spent many days pushing myself on this scrappy cliff. Of all the Cedar crags, I feel this place trained and schooled me the most. It prepared me for many useless yet rewarding challenges. I took my first upside down daisy chain fall onto a #0 t.c.u. at the top of the aid route, only because I forgot to uncl... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Dec 15, 2009

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Comments: Shall I BUMP this?

o.k.

BUMp, BUMp, BUMp!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: There is the first ascent, the first free ascent, the first female ascent, the first solo, the first free solo, what first is this?





Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Zodiac (C3+) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: 1st ascent of el cap in swim trunks?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Valentine Crack (5.8)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: This route is good.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: I did it last weekend. The pins for the first pitch belay seem good. Its easy to back them up with a blue metolius tcu. The first knifeblade at the start of the second pitch (the only good pitch on this route) is junk. I would never fall on it. The next pin on the second pitch (an SMC hybrid angle/knifeblade) seemed good. I did back it up with a lowe-ball and didn't fall on it. I really liked that second pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 3, 2009

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Comments: Good point, Altered States is probably good. I wrote about the chin under the Magic Circus route.

We think that low bolt was an attempt up the water groove. After top-roping that line, we have concluded it unfinished. We couldn't find any type of protection in the blank rock above that low bolt. The climbing is "thugish" but fun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: Mr. Ten,

I actually stared at the Wizards Chin for a long time. I looks as good as it is from my vantage. What a really enjoyable route. I climbed Altered States because I was already up there.
I heard you did "Fish for Brains." I promise to put a lower anchor on that second pitch. Sorry for being lazy and not getting around to it yet.




SN


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: "Bouted?" Hardly, I onsighted it. I actually climbed it again and still think it sucks. I guess I was disappointed because I heard it was one of the Wasatch classics for its grade and it didn't deliver. A bunch of other people I've spoke to think it blows also. Thanks for making fun of my name, buddy.

The Cheese.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: This route sucks.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Romance on the Rocks (5.10d)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: Jeans are a great piece of gear for this route. If you recreate the falls committed by the first ascentionists like I did, do not wear modern, thin, and cute prana pants. I found this leads to cheek raspberries.

A brilliant and beautiful pitch that every slab addict should do.

sn


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Magic Circus (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: The Wizards Chin is well worth climbing. I grinded a bunch of huge gear through there, and didn't use any. If anybody is interested in climbing this cool formation, take a #4 camalot, three #3 camalots, a #2 camalot, and a #1 camalot. Leave the small stuff and nuts on the ground. A sling or two and some draws for the last two bolts of Bright And Shining Lie are also nice. I found it better to finish on the Bright and Shining Lie rather than doing the Wasatch Crunch Fest... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: I recently climbed this magical route for the second time and personally believe those pins are not a big deal. By the time you get to the second pitch corner, it feels like 5.0 If those pins are really loose try to tap them in. If the pin remains loose, pull it and try to fit a nut. If a nut doesn't fit, send a new pin home. Bolts should never be added to this section.

SN


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall : Perseverance Bulge Crack (5.9)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: Really fun trad route. Large cams are not mandatory, yet nice to have. It is the difference between placing arm deep #3 camalots or easily placing larger pieces like a #3.5 or #4 camalot. Basically, if you own those larger pieces, I would recommend bringing them. If not, you can still get it done.

SN


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Rappel Wall Area : The Adventure Route (5.9+)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 30, 2009

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Comments: I bolted that arete. Big 1/2" bolts so enjoy!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 30, 2009

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Comments: I purpose we should all "adopt a route." Instead of relying on the blood, sweat and toil of a few, we should all choose a route and fix it. Learn how to fix bolts, pick a route, and fix that route. Just like the highways, "Adopt a Route."


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Ventral Fin (5.10 A2-3) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: What a picture! How about some more or a comment about the first ascent? "You give an inch we want a mile"

-TDA


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Ventral Fin (5.10 A2-3)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 28, 2009

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Comments: The bolts are all new as of 2009, but there are a few old bolts in which we couldn't remove. Please take the necessary tools to "yank" these and patch the old holes.

Kudos to the Smoot brothers for the lasso on the fourth pitch. I'm sure it will remain one of my most mememorable moments in that canyon. It makes me want to go climb Nob Job.


-TDA


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Bowling Alley : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: May 28, 2009

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Comments: Those bolts are bomber. I placed some of those bolts. You should enjoy the doubt the Bowling Alley gives. Instead of being scared, you should add another 1/2" bolt and call it good. I love this little crag.


=TDA


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Apr 1, 2009

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Comments: Hey Monty,

That looks like fun. Whats a few golf balls compared to the thousands of climbers that frequent this part of the desert.

I know its litter, but it doesn't compare to the spraying of routes on the internet which in return leads to more crowds.

Happy climbing and golfing!

TDA


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