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Member Since: Feb 21, 2008
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Stevie Nacho


Point Rank: # 979
Total Points: 595
Last Year: 53
Last 30 Days: 0
23 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Stevie Nacho been climbing?










Contributions


All (244) | Routes (16) | Areas (2) | Photos (60) | Comments (105) | Posts (45) | Stars (16) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (5.11 C1)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Dec 4, 2010

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Comments: I'd rate it C2-. I've done it twice and aided most of it. I probably claim 5.8/5.9 being the hardest I freed. Take a big cam and some brassies. This route is funner than it looks.

-Tda


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : ... : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: I got the first armless/handless toprope on this years ago. Let us rejoice that these new bolts will be pulled. There is NO excuse, even for the first ascentionist to add such lame bolts.

Seriously, we need to stop bickering and defend our wilderness.

-TDA


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : ... : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 4, 2010

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Comments: Really?

This is getting ridiculous. What the hell are the drillers thinking? I'm putting a two-sized wrench in my pack.

-tda


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Sep 22, 2010

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Comments: Well said Mr. Smoot! I could not agree with you more. I learned to climb in the Wasatch and I also have witnessed a disturbing trend of bolt placement regardless of natural protection. It seems that setting up a gear belay is becoming extinct. On some of my first ascents, I've been guilty of having the tunnel vision of looking for a spot to drill a belay rather than looking at what the rock has to offer. Recently I've been changing my mindset and trying to only place bolts where absolutely m... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: Cool!

If this was still around, then the Wasatch outdoor community may have never started drinking PBR.

-TDA


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Intensive Care Slab : Intensive Care (5.11- R) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: Ode to beers and really low budget video! We just got done watching the Intensive Care video, and boy-o-boy it was good. We are going back up there for another shoot, except we will bring beautiful women to make this flick really worth watching. Its funny how 5.11 slab looks so lame and easy from a camera. We have figured out that if you add sexy women, all climbing looks cool. Even bouldering looks cool with hot girls!

TDA


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Intensive Care Slab : Intensive Care (5.11- R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: Hey Mike,

Don't sweat checking out the last bolt. We're going to stuff in a rawl when we go up on this slab again.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Pebbles and Bambam (5.9)
By: Stevie Nacho When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: After the third bolt, go left into the black water streak. If you look directly up, you'll see a bolt really high. This bolt is an added bolt that really doesn't make sense, don't run it out to here! There is also a new "calderone" route to the left. Since I last did this route, it was obvious climbing with following the bolts. Now, you have to decipher which bolts to climb to. Anyhow, this route is fun if you can figure out the original bolt line to follow.

TO CLIMB THE ORIGINAL PEBBELS... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Cashmere Crack (5.10+)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: I'm with Durf, most all the offwidths in LCC are sandbagged. He's just keepin with the tradition.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Unknown Slab (5.10)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: This route has cleaned up nicely. I think its softer 5.10 because I led it bobble headed and out of balance due to a bad head cold. Take a medium sized cam and a runner for the moves before the last bolt.
Thanks to whomever put is all the new belays.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Bowling Alley : North Wash Bouldering : ... : Punching Bag (V1+)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 18, 2010

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Comments: Really??????? When I climbed in C-town, it was about being crazy and adventurous. Come on boys, climb some real rock.


-TDA


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Bowling Alley : Main Area : Never Again (5.8-)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 6, 2010

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Comments: Its great to see that some climbers a.k.a vertical construction workers, are enjoying the bowling alley. What a fun crag. I like that a roadside crag can bring so much adventure. I spent many days pushing myself on this scrappy cliff. Of all the Cedar crags, I feel this place trained and schooled me the most. It prepared me for many useless yet rewarding challenges. I took my first upside down daisy chain fall onto a #0 t.c.u. at the top of the aid route, only because I forgot to uncl... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Dec 15, 2009

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Comments: Shall I BUMP this?

o.k.

BUMp, BUMp, BUMp!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: There is the first ascent, the first free ascent, the first female ascent, the first solo, the first free solo, what first is this?





Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Zodiac (C3+) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: 1st ascent of el cap in swim trunks?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Valentine Crack (5.8)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: This route is good.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: I did it last weekend. The pins for the first pitch belay seem good. Its easy to back them up with a blue metolius tcu. The first knifeblade at the start of the second pitch (the only good pitch on this route) is junk. I would never fall on it. The next pin on the second pitch (an SMC hybrid angle/knifeblade) seemed good. I did back it up with a lowe-ball and didn't fall on it. I really liked that second pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 3, 2009

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Comments: Good point, Altered States is probably good. I wrote about the chin under the Magic Circus route.

We think that low bolt was an attempt up the water groove. After top-roping that line, we have concluded it unfinished. We couldn't find any type of protection in the blank rock above that low bolt. The climbing is "thugish" but fun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: Mr. Ten,

I actually stared at the Wizards Chin for a long time. I looks as good as it is from my vantage. What a really enjoyable route. I climbed Altered States because I was already up there.
I heard you did "Fish for Brains." I promise to put a lower anchor on that second pitch. Sorry for being lazy and not getting around to it yet.




SN


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: "Bouted?" Hardly, I onsighted it. I actually climbed it again and still think it sucks. I guess I was disappointed because I heard it was one of the Wasatch classics for its grade and it didn't deliver. A bunch of other people I've spoke to think it blows also. Thanks for making fun of my name, buddy.

The Cheese.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: This route sucks.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Romance on the Rocks (5.10d)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: Jeans are a great piece of gear for this route. If you recreate the falls committed by the first ascentionists like I did, do not wear modern, thin, and cute prana pants. I found this leads to cheek raspberries.

A brilliant and beautiful pitch that every slab addict should do.

sn


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Magic Circus (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: The Wizards Chin is well worth climbing. I grinded a bunch of huge gear through there, and didn't use any. If anybody is interested in climbing this cool formation, take a #4 camalot, three #3 camalots, a #2 camalot, and a #1 camalot. Leave the small stuff and nuts on the ground. A sling or two and some draws for the last two bolts of Bright And Shining Lie are also nice. I found it better to finish on the Bright and Shining Lie rather than doing the Wasatch Crunch Fest... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: I recently climbed this magical route for the second time and personally believe those pins are not a big deal. By the time you get to the second pitch corner, it feels like 5.0 If those pins are really loose try to tap them in. If the pin remains loose, pull it and try to fit a nut. If a nut doesn't fit, send a new pin home. Bolts should never be added to this section.

SN


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall : Perseverance Bulge Crack (5.9)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: Really fun trad route. Large cams are not mandatory, yet nice to have. It is the difference between placing arm deep #3 camalots or easily placing larger pieces like a #3.5 or #4 camalot. Basically, if you own those larger pieces, I would recommend bringing them. If not, you can still get it done.

SN


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