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Lion King with the pup.


Member Since: Sep 7, 2007
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 1,365
Total Points: 447
Last Year: 53
Last 30 Days: 1
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1684 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos 49 | Page Improvements | Comments 92 | Posts 75 | Stars 1302 | Ratings 155
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Idaho Springs : Loch Lomond : Reynolds Lake : Reynolds Boulder : Bob Loblaw (V7)
By: SteveZ When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: "Lobs law bombs on his law blog"

Awesome route name!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Fabled Creatures Wall : Unicorn (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Seemed like this route and Incubus held shade the longest due to their aspect. Maybe 3 or 4pm?

...and only two monos for me (fortunately). Though they are at the steepest part.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: I was confused by this line in the way Reboot mentions above. There seemed to be several places to traverse left to the arete from the crack above the first roof. We figured out at least three. It always seemed like the natural line wanted to take you up and right but the bolts to the left. Kind of nebulous but good rock at the very least.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Naked Kill (5.12d R)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Ha, perfect indeed...

(fine handy work up there).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Slacks (5.11c)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: I agree with above, rolling over the lip is kind of heady with nothing to clip there. Sweet huecos down low!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Naked Kill (5.12d R)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ Agreed. It climbs like a mix between finger crack and a sport climb.

As a note on gear, there are good pieces, it just helps to know where they are and where to just climb. Going ground up on this would be pretty bad ass. Excellent pro before the crux helps a lot (currently fixed nut here, sorry). I also added a nut hanger to the old bolt at the anchor to connect it with the new 1/2" bolt with locker to add some redundancy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bumbling Stock : Crack a Beer (5.10+)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: I fully admit I suck at OW, but this felt considerably harder than 5.10. Maybe if you have big paws and can get some decent fists it would help, but otherwise it's some pretty steep stacks or arm bars. Felt like Generator crack kicked back 20 degrees but fortunately the business is only for like 15 feet. Whatever the case, this thing is an awesome bit of crack climbing.

WMC - for setting a TR, I'm not sure, but it looked like you could scramble up the back of the formation and the anchors were... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bumbling Stock : Desiderata (5.11+)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: The second half of this route is excellent. The first half is crumbly and weird. Second half is worth it I think.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Eastern Heart (5.12a)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: A lot of loose rock on this one. It's definitely still cleaning up, and I suspect it will get harder as more holds rip. I almost gave it a bomb, but the positioning at the top is sweet.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Flying Fish (5.12c/d)
By: SteveZ When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: The jug/good edge about 2/3 the way up ripped off today. I hadn't been on the route before it went, so I can't say if it's harder or not but just a heads up. Maybe my partner will chime in as he had done it in both states. It cleaned up nicely though, and the route still goes.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: SteveZ When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Snow conditions:

I went yesterday and it was great. No problem driving up to The Bank parking in my 2WD wagon. We went to the bank at it was no problem walking. Snow was packed down in some places, but where it wasn't, it was only ankle deep at most and usually avoidable or brief. When we were walking in, another party dropped off to go to Cactus, etc. all and seemed to have no problem. None of the walls at The Bank were seeping or wet that we saw and even the bases were totally clear of snow. ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Dog Run (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: Agreed, this line seemed totally independent of Big Dog. You could clip the first bolt of Big Dog on the slab perhaps but certainly not needed.

Not quite as good as Big Dog, but there are fun, steep moves throughout.


Location: CHRIS.T : climb : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Would that be type II "enjoyment"? ;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Film Noir (5.12c/d)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: I had avoided this route for a while due to its height-dependent crux. I wish I hadn't though as it is excellent. Maybe the best stone on the wall even? Whatever the case, I'm not quite 5'10 (even index) and thought the crux was reasonable. Go get it, shorties!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Indirect Savant (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: I was back up here recently, and I think I know what the deal is. With the newer route Notorious in, there are now three routes that end at the same anchor, and it makes it seem like the 11 (Idiot Savant) is the leftmost. Indirect Savant is farthest left of the (now) three routes there. Really small crimps and poor feet to start.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Black and Tan (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^^
That's pretty much what I did too. Though once I got the slopey dish with the LH, I bumped RH out right to a gaston that you can kind of lean over into. From there, it worked to either sink onto the RH and cross LH all the way out to the jug on the arete or press up LH to a decent hold that's hard to see. Might depend on your height which is easier? Good luck!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Little Debbie's Boulder : Dynoman (V8) : Photo (Copy)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: -"Winnie" Ha.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : Redstone Area : River Boulders : North of Corkscrew Boulder : ... : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: Obviously rad poster. Poorly developed SoS [social skills]. [Thread] Would have been better without. ;-)


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Vixen (5.11a)
By: SteveZ When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Tried the second pitch today. Doesn't look like it sees much action. The first bulge to below the huge roof is manageable, but the roof itself felt pretty burly. Some flat blocks to sink out against then some sloping gastons as part of the crack. Above the lip, there are a couple of crimps and an undercling. I stopped there though as the rock quality was not so great and I wasn't making much progress. I thought the movement felt oddly similar to to Double Stout roof around the corner but with mu... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock : Lightning Rod (5.11a)
By: SteveZ When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Currently only has a one bolt anchor.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock : Thunder Road (5.11b)
By: SteveZ When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Bolts have been removed from this route (not by me).


Location: SD : Lightning Creek : Tsunami Wall~ : Bermuda Triangle (5.12)
By: SteveZ When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: As of last week there is a nest of baby swifts in the big jug hole half way up. May be best to avoid this one for a bit until they're all moved out.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Indirect Savant (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: If memory serves, it's the left variation as posted. You're just crushing these days? Or maybe something broke?

...or both?!

Don't remember much about it unfortunately, maybe a punchy crux down low?


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Breakfast Wall : Honeycomb (5.11b)
By: SteveZ When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Apt name for the route... there's a wasp nest in one of the huge roof jugs. Avoidable hold, but they're still not too welcoming as you go past.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Black and Tan (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: "Either way, go climb on them. Be psyched, and don't forget we're just talking about rocks."

Total agreement.


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