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Lion King with the pup.


Member Since: Sep 7, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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SteveZ
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Total Points: 458
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 3
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1752 | Routes 13 | Areas | Photos 45 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 100 | Posts 83 | Stars 1349 | Ratings 161
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Bird's Nest : Ladies in Love aka: Lesbia... (5.12b/c)
By: SteveZ When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: One of the rare hand friendly routes in the area. Gets full on sun during most of the day though, making it a good morning/evening route (or winter).


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : Spinal Tap (5.11)
By: SteveZ When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: The bottom of this route is awesome. Some sharp hard moves up top that aren't as awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: ^^^Thanks, Gregger Man. Shoot me a PM if you could use any hardware, money, or beer donations for the cause.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : Wild Blue Yonder (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: WBY also sports a direct start off the ramp at about 12a. Ends up at the same no-hands rest, so it doesn't really increase the overall difficulty but makes the belay spot nicer.


Location: Chris treggE : Climbing Shots : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: *Magnum* (Dear God, it's beautiful)



Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Kleptocracy (5.13-)
By: SteveZ When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: Anyone have beta they wouldn't mind sharing for "the move"? I'm totally stumped! The rest of the route is really cool, but the one move is such a show stopper for me.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: I've done it with the direct moves and the traverse method, and they feel about the same difficulty wise to me. Didn't find a no-hands rest though. They're also both really cool. I would say the rock on the direct path is better though.

How are there no pictures of this yet?!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Pit Bull Prowser (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: There is a very definite crux at the third bolt (of pitch 2) that seemed like it would go two ways. A huge body length dyno up and right to an angled rail or classic BoCan crystal crimping up and left. I only managed the latter, but the dyno would be spectacular. Either way it's pretty mean and punchy. Good stone, but it looked as if the second pitch doesn't see much action these days.

It's also worth noting that pitch 1 shares anchors and the last four bolts with Cujo Tranquilizer to the left... more >>


Location: CO : Idaho Springs : Loch Lomond : Reynolds Lake : Reynolds Boulder : Bob Loblaw (V6)
By: SteveZ When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: "Lobs law bombs on his law blog"

Awesome route name!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Fabled Creatures Wall : Unicorn (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Seemed like this route and Incubus held shade the longest due to their aspect. Maybe 3 or 4pm?

...and only two monos for me (fortunately). Though they are at the steepest part.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: I was confused by this line in the way Reboot mentions above. There seemed to be several places to traverse left to the arete from the crack above the first roof. We figured out at least three. It always seemed like the natural line wanted to take you up and right but the bolts to the left. Kind of nebulous but good rock at the very least.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Naked Kill (5.12d R)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Ha, perfect indeed...

(fine handy work up there).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Slacks (5.11c)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: I agree with above, rolling over the lip is kind of heady with nothing to clip there. Sweet huecos down low!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Naked Kill (5.12d R)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ Agreed. It climbs like a mix between finger crack and a sport climb.

As a note on gear, there are good pieces, it just helps to know where they are and where to just climb. Going ground up on this would be pretty bad ass. Excellent pro before the crux helps a lot (currently fixed nut here, sorry). I also added a nut hanger to the old bolt at the anchor to connect it with the new 1/2" bolt with locker to add some redundancy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bumbling Stock : Crack a Beer (5.10+)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: I fully admit I suck at OW, but this felt considerably harder than 5.10. Maybe if you have big paws and can get some decent fists it would help, but otherwise it's some pretty steep stacks or arm bars. Felt like Generator crack kicked back 20 degrees but fortunately the business is only for like 15 feet. Whatever the case, this thing is an awesome bit of crack climbing.

WMC - for setting a TR, I'm not sure, but it looked like you could scramble up the back of the formation and the anchors were... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bumbling Stock : Desiderata (5.11+)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: The second half of this route is excellent. The first half is crumbly and weird. Second half is worth it I think.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Eastern Heart (5.12a)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: A lot of loose rock on this one. It's definitely still cleaning up, and I suspect it will get harder as more holds rip. I almost gave it a bomb, but the positioning at the top is sweet.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Flying Fish (5.12c/d)
By: SteveZ When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: The jug/good edge about 2/3 the way up ripped off today. I hadn't been on the route before it went, so I can't say if it's harder or not but just a heads up. Maybe my partner will chime in as he had done it in both states. It cleaned up nicely though, and the route still goes.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: SteveZ When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Snow conditions:

I went yesterday and it was great. No problem driving up to The Bank parking in my 2WD wagon. We went to the bank at it was no problem walking. Snow was packed down in some places, but where it wasn't, it was only ankle deep at most and usually avoidable or brief. When we were walking in, another party dropped off to go to Cactus, etc. all and seemed to have no problem. None of the walls at The Bank were seeping or wet that we saw and even the bases were totally clear of snow. ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Dog Run (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: Agreed, this line seemed totally independent of Big Dog. You could clip the first bolt of Big Dog on the slab perhaps but certainly not needed.

Not quite as good as Big Dog, but there are fun, steep moves throughout.


Location: Chris. T. : climb : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Would that be type II "enjoyment"? ;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Film Noir (5.12c/d)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: I had avoided this route for a while due to its height-dependent crux. I wish I hadn't though as it is excellent. Maybe the best stone on the wall even? Whatever the case, I'm not quite 5'10 (even index) and thought the crux was reasonable. Go get it, shorties!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Indirect Savant (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: I was back up here recently, and I think I know what the deal is. With the newer route Notorious in, there are now three routes that end at the same anchor, and it makes it seem like the 11 (Idiot Savant) is the leftmost. Indirect Savant is farthest left of the (now) three routes there. Really small crimps and poor feet to start.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Black and Tan (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^^
That's pretty much what I did too. Though once I got the slopey dish with the LH, I bumped RH out right to a gaston that you can kind of lean over into. From there, it worked to either sink onto the RH and cross LH all the way out to the jug on the arete or press up LH to a decent hold that's hard to see. Might depend on your height which is easier? Good luck!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Little Debbie's Boulder : Dynoman (V8) : Photo (Copy)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: -"Winnie" Ha.


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