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Lion King with the pup.


Member Since: Sep 7, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,339
Total Points: 446
Last Year: 64
Last 30 Days: 20
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1673 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos 49 | Page Improvments | Comments 91 | Posts 71 | Stars 1297 | Ratings 154
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Red Tag Hag (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: Curious where that broken hold was, anyone know? Whatever the case, this one seems the hardest on the wall in its current state. This one probably has the best rock of the hard routes at this end of Highlander.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 9, 2013

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Comments: I would give this route 5 stars if it let me. Also I agree the height dependency on the move to the manta ray at least with the stand up method. Maybe an all out lunge if you're shorter than 5'9"?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Two Hoofers (5.12)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 7, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Doug! Funny about the extra bolts...I don't even own a hammer so I'll probably just do what you guys did and keep climbing. But maybe I can track one down somewhere. Depends on what the partners are feeling like while we're out there but I'll be sure to let you know how it goes if I get to try this thing. Sweet looking route.

ps. Is the name because you two are part of the hoofers club?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Two Hoofers (5.12)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: Looks like a cool route, I'm just curious what kind of terrain the big run outs are on. From the topo it looks like friction 5.6. Anything more difficult? Thinking about doing this next trip out, but need to return in one piece ;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Feeding the Beast (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: If anyone knows the FA info, let me know and I'll edit it in.

For what it's worth, my partner and I thought the crux was pretty stout (though brief) for 12b as listed in Bob D's book. Probably somewhere in between Joy Ride and Der Letzte Zug difficulty wise.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s
By: SteveZ When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: Found: A pair of shoes and a chalk bag. Separate areas, so likely different owners. Let me know if you lost something, and we'll get it back to you.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: SteveZ When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: Found a camera up here today near Frank's Years. Give a pm if it was yours, and we can figure out how to get it back to you.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Global Gorilla (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: We did the full route as one pitch and were pretty certain an 80m line would get you down from the top (though didn't confirm this). Otherwise lower and re-thread at the top of p2... a 70m will take you down from there.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Irok
By: SteveZ When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Cool little crag out and away from the road. It gets decent sun for the winter, and if the ice is thick, you can quickly walk across the river rather than dealing with the tyrol.

Partner and I both thought the 12s on the main (left) wall had significantly better rock than the routes up and right. Excellent place to get a workout on the short, steep face.

On a random note there appears to be a very new (read: shiny) highline anchor just downstream from the tyrol.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall
By: SteveZ When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Just a note on the approach...walk further than you would think on the big flat trail before turning uphill. Go past the wall to a noticeable trail heading up hill. It will take you to the right side of the wall.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Wiled Horses (5.13-)
By: SteveZ When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: Poop conditions are pretty reasonable right now. Mostly it's like 10 feet of easier climbing after the last piton getting set up under the roof and there are non poopy areas that you can use for holds. A little dirty in general through that part but it would clean up with traffic or a good brushing. Once on the roof you're home...er poop-free.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Black and Tan (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: I jumped on this yesterday after encouragement from Jay (from comments above) and found that it still goes without being absurdly hard. Maybe 13b or c? I'm 5'9", and reach wasn't an issue as I never went all the way out to the arete (until after the crux). Just terrible feet and hands to sort of balance your way through to the jugs. Not wanting to be too spray-y, just hoping to see people out putting this one away again! My beta was pretty straightforward, but if anyone's interested, I'd be happ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls (5.12b/c)
By: SteveZ When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Looks like there is a bolt to link the beginning of Balkan into this for two cruxes. Shouldn't really change the overall grade though as you have the no hands rest to recover.

Fun route!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Decoletage (5.12b/c)
By: SteveZ When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Forgot to take a picture but cool looking route on good rock! Thought I would chime in that there's a pretty big run from the last bolt to the anchors. Maybe 25 feet, and while the climbing is easier, it's still perhaps 11- easing into 10. Even one stopper or mid-sized cam would go a long way to making the end more comfortable. Also, the anchor bolts are pretty old, one looked like a 1/4", and they're equipped w/ old sun-baked webbing. If I'm back up there, I'll bring some quicklinks or chain, b... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: SteveZ When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Hey Tito, not a stupid question if you don't know :). In theory the 5.9 refers to the highest level of mandatory free climbing (that which is not aidable). You could certainly climb it at 5.10 C2 or 5.12 C2 or just free at 13+/14- too. This is how aid ratings work, same is said for the C2 part, it's the hardest aid on the route. Only C2 because the gear is pretty straight forward, just awkward/not quite perfect at a couple points. That and you can do it with clean gear alone (hence the "C").


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Stool Pigeon (5.11b R) : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Hell yeah, raawwwrr!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Road To Emmaus (5.11a/b)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 14, 2012

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Comments: For what it's worth, the chain on the first bolt is back.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, buddy! I can just sense that Remo-style psych through the internet!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Chaos (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: I don't think any of the clips are particularly tough or dangerous. At 5'9", I can get the first two with my feet on the good blocks down low. You have jugs for the third and fourth bolts, and it's maybe 11+/12- climbing anyway. Not trying to be that internet tough guy but rather encourage people to try this one.

...now if I could just pull all the moves.

Edit: after finally putting this thing together, I would add that it's a very subtle route. Very slight changes in body position or momentu... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Machine Gun Funk (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: This line is so good, well bolted, gymnastic, and STEEP! A classic for CCC in my opinion... thanks for the work, guys.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: SteveZ When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know what the short little route is that sits above Question Authority? It's about 3 bolts and maybe 20 ft. Doesn't appear to have an anchor either.

Also, has anyone tried the project to the left of Chaos, right of Anarchitect? It looks pretty blank, but I'm sure there's some sneaky beta out there... right?

Edit: ... so to answer my own question, the project is really tough. The second half is very doable at probably 12- but the first half is heinously blank. There may be just enou... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Buster Brown (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: Sorry, forgot to snap a picture of this one :-/. In my opinion this is the best looking and climbing route on the wall!


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne
By: SteveZ When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: We got stormed off of Dude's Throne pretty quickly today. Because of all the lightning, we ended up leaving draws on buster brown (just left of Dude's Jam Crack). I'll be back up to rescue them on Sunday.... I'm just asking if everyone will be so kind as to leave them up there until then :). Makes for some good non-committal climbing if you're headed out tomorrow. Thanks!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: Haha oh man you should see the neon flower tights that used to be rocked in lax. Hansel... er Travis. So hot right now.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: Hilarious. Get some! ...it's all about the tank top.


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