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Lion King with the pup.


Member Since: Sep 7, 2007
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,353
Total Points: 422
Last Year: 71
Last 30 Days: 4
18 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Contributions


All (1625) | Routes (11) | Areas | Photos (45) | Comments (87) | Posts (62) | Stars (1267) | Ratings (153)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Irok
By: SteveZ When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Cool little crag out and away from the road. It gets decent sun for the winter, and if the ice is thick, you can quickly walk across the river rather than dealing with the tyrol.

Partner and I both thought the 12s on the main (left) wall had significantly better rock than the routes up and right. Excellent place to get a workout on the short, steep face.

On a random note there appears to be a very new (read: shiny) highline anchor just downstream from the tyrol.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall
By: SteveZ When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Just a note on the approach...walk further than you would think on the big flat trail before turning uphill. Go past the wall to a noticeable trail heading up hill. It will take you to the right side of the wall.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Wiled Horses (5.13-)
By: SteveZ When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: Poop conditions are pretty reasonable right now. Mostly it's like 10 feet of easier climbing after the last piton getting set up under the roof and there are non poopy areas that you can use for holds. A little dirty in general through that part but it would clean up with traffic or a good brushing. Once on the roof you're home...er poop-free.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Black and Tan (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: I jumped on this yesterday after encouragement from Jay (from comments above) and found that it still goes without being absurdly hard. Maybe 13b or c? I'm 5'9", and reach wasn't an issue as I never went all the way out to the arete (until after the crux). Just terrible feet and hands to sort of balance your way through to the jugs. Not wanting to be too spray-y, just hoping to see people out putting this one away again! My beta was pretty straightforward, but if anyone's interested, I'd be happ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls (5.12b/c)
By: SteveZ When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Looks like there is a bolt to link the beginning of Balkan into this for two cruxes. Shouldn't really change the overall grade though as you have the no hands rest to recover.

Fun route!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Decoletage (5.12b/c)
By: SteveZ When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Forgot to take a picture but cool looking route on good rock! Thought I would chime in that there's a pretty big run from the last bolt to the anchors. Maybe 25 feet, and while the climbing is easier, it's still perhaps 11- easing into 10. Even one stopper or mid-sized cam would go a long way to making the end more comfortable. Also, the anchor bolts are pretty old, one looked like a 1/4", and they're equipped w/ old sun-baked webbing. If I'm back up there, I'll bring some quicklinks or chain, b... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: SteveZ When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Hey Tito, not a stupid question if you don't know :). In theory the 5.9 refers to the highest level of mandatory free climbing (that which is not aidable). You could certainly climb it at 5.10 C2 or 5.12 C2 or just free at 13+/14- too. This is how aid ratings work, same is said for the C2 part, it's the hardest aid on the route. Only C2 because the gear is pretty straight forward, just awkward/not quite perfect at a couple points. That and you can do it with clean gear alone (hence the "C").


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Stool Pigeon (5.11b R) : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Hell yeah, raawwwrr!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Road To Emmaus (5.11a/b)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 14, 2012

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Comments: For what it's worth, the chain on the first bolt is back.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, buddy! I can just sense that Remo-style psych through the internet!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Chaos (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: I don't think any of the clips are particularly tough or dangerous. At 5'9", I can get the first two with my feet on the good blocks down low. You have jugs for the third and fourth bolts, and it's maybe 11+/12- climbing anyway. Not trying to be that internet tough guy but rather encourage people to try this one.

...now if I could just pull all the moves.

Edit: after finally putting this thing together, I would add that it's a very subtle route. Very slight changes in body position or momentu... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Machine Gun Funk (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: This line is so good, well bolted, gymnastic, and STEEP! A classic for CCC in my opinion... thanks for the work, guys.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: SteveZ When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know what the short little route is that sits above Question Authority? It's about 3 bolts and maybe 20 ft. Doesn't appear to have an anchor either.

Also, has anyone tried the project to the left of Chaos, right of Anarchitect? It looks pretty blank, but I'm sure there's some sneaky beta out there... right?

Edit: ... so to answer my own question, the project is really tough. The second half is very doable at probably 12- but the first half is heinously blank. There may be just enou... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Buster Brown (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: Sorry, forgot to snap a picture of this one :-/. In my opinion this is the best looking and climbing route on the wall!


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne
By: SteveZ When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: We got stormed off of Dude's Throne pretty quickly today. Because of all the lightning, we ended up leaving draws on buster brown (just left of Dude's Jam Crack). I'll be back up to rescue them on Sunday.... I'm just asking if everyone will be so kind as to leave them up there until then :). Makes for some good non-committal climbing if you're headed out tomorrow. Thanks!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: Haha oh man you should see the neon flower tights that used to be rocked in lax. Hansel... er Travis. So hot right now.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: Hilarious. Get some! ...it's all about the tank top.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Energy Crag : Thievery (V8)
By: SteveZ When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: Will,
I'm sure someone here will have better directions than this as I've only been there once, but... from Prince Charles if you look SWish (down the hill and a bit to your right), you'll see some flat rock slabs kind of across the gully. Really roughly maybe a hundred-ish yards away. These are the top of the Thievery area, though you won't be able to see the problems as they face away from you (when looking from PC). If you wander over to those slabs and scramble down the other side, just scan... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: How did I miss that thing last time I was there?!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Price For Fire (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: Hey all, noticed the 1st bolt was wiggling in its hole today (2/25/12) and thought I would post as a heads up. It didn't pull out by hand, but I wouldn't want to have to trust it either...unfortunately I don't know how to replace it. If anyone would be willing to show me, I'd buy ya a beer. Also, the purple sling on the fixed cam is worn almost all the way through. I'll fix that next time I'm out with some webbing. I left draws up today too, so the fixed hardware is in good shape if anyone is lo... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Twitch (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 27, 2011

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Comments: Cool, thanks for more info and the open projects!

... now I just have to get really strong I suppose.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Twitch (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 27, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the info, guys. Cool on the open project too, Luke...though if you guys didn't already send it, I'm not sure I'll be capable either. But I'll give it a shot some time, and if by some stroke of luck I manage to claw my way up it, I'll let you know! Did you bolt the red tagged line to the right, too? That thing looks pretty stout as well.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Twitch (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone know what the alternate finish to Twitch is? It looked like there was a line of bolts that split off right after a few shared bolts down low. I don't think it is red tagged like the other independent line to the right, but please correct me if I'm wrong.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: I was thinking of getting on that one too. Maybe I will next time I'm out, but thanks for the heads up on the traverse in. Have either of you tried the orange one??


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Ghetto Activity (5.10b/c)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 4, 2011

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Comments: Still cleaning up a bit, keep an eye out when belaying. Cool movement though.


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