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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Dutchman Rampart : Oh Rats (5.8) : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Jun 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha. Though it might actually make more sense for me to change given my last name doesn't even have a Z in it? That or we could have a highlanderesque showdown (there can only be one) ...
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Energy Crag : Hands and Fist Crack (V0-1)
By: SteveZ When: May 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed with the sandbag, this felt the same difficulty as energy to me...only more painful.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Scotland 'Wales' (V4)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kind of awkward avoiding the boulder on the left.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Apr 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right on, maybe I'll see you up there sometime.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Appreciate the work, Matt. Is the black route open for business or tagged?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, man, let me know when you want to come out and do The Diamond!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Afterburner (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Might want a stick clip for this one. That or climb Muscle Beach and equip this on the way down. Pretty high first bolt with some non-trivial climbing to reach it.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Under A Blood Red Wall (5.11d)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed with Slim. Maybe something broke?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Dirt Me (5.12- PG13)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That dead thing (we thought it was a mouse) was still in there when we climbed this in about 2011! I laughed when I saw mention of it from 2008. Pretty nasty route as Chris illustrates.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Stiff Upper Lip (5.12a) : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...cell phone photo :-/
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Micro Chip (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool boulder problem standing up to that "hold". Rock is a little flakey in spots but good stone where you need it. Thanks for throwing hangers back on this one, Derek, and good work on getting it!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Leap of Faith (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seemed like a big right hand bump from and to sidepulls or a lock off on the one finger crimp (that Joshua mentions) with the left hand? Thoughts anyone? Either way it felt unpleasant IMO. The rock is still crumbling in places on this one.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Red Tag Hag (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Curious where that broken hold was, anyone know? Whatever the case, this one seems the hardest on the wall in its current state. This one probably has the best rock of the hard routes at this end of Highlander.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would give this route 5 stars if it let me. Also I agree the height dependency on the move to the manta ray at least with the stand up method. Maybe an all out lunge if you're shorter than 5'9"?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Two Hoofers (5.12)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Doug! Funny about the extra bolts...I don't even own a hammer so I'll probably just do what you guys did and keep climbing. But maybe I can track one down somewhere. Depends on what the partners are feeling like while we're out there but I'll be sure to let you know how it goes if I get to try this thing. Sweet looking route.
ps. Is the name because you two are part of the hoofers club?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Two Hoofers (5.12)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like a cool route, I'm just curious what kind of terrain the big run outs are on. From the topo it looks like friction 5.6. Anything more difficult? Thinking about doing this next trip out, but need to return in one piece ;-)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Feeding the Beast (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone knows the FA info, let me know and I'll edit it in.
For what it's worth, my partner and I thought the crux was pretty stout (though brief) for 12b as listed in Bob D's book. Probably somewhere in between Joy Ride and Der Letzte Zug difficulty wise.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s
By: SteveZ When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found: A pair of shoes and a chalk bag. Separate areas, so likely different owners. Let me know if you lost something, and we'll get it back to you.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: SteveZ When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found a camera up here today near Frank's Years. Give a pm if it was yours, and we can figure out how to get it back to you.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Global Gorilla (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Feb 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did the full route as one pitch and were pretty certain an 80m line would get you down from the top (though didn't confirm this). Otherwise lower and re-thread at the top of p2... a 70m will take you down from there.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Irok
By: SteveZ When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool little crag out and away from the road. It gets decent sun for the winter, and if the ice is thick, you can quickly walk across the river rather than dealing with the tyrol.
Partner and I both thought the 12s on the main (left) wall had significantly better rock than the routes up and right. Excellent place to get a workout on the short, steep face.
On a random note there appears to be a very new (read: shiny) highline anchor just downstream from the tyrol.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall
By: SteveZ When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a note on the approach...walk further than you would think on the big flat trail before turning uphill. Go past the wall to a noticeable trail heading up hill. It will take you to the right side of the wall.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Wiled Horses (5.13-)
By: SteveZ When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Poop conditions are pretty reasonable right now. Mostly it's like 10 feet of easier climbing after the last piton getting set up under the roof and there are non poopy areas that you can use for holds. A little dirty in general through that part but it would clean up with traffic or a good brushing. Once on the roof you're home...er poop-free.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Black and Tan (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I jumped on this yesterday after encouragement from Jay (from comments above) and found that it still goes without being absurdly hard. Maybe 13b or c? I'm 5'9", and reach wasn't an issue as I never went all the way out to the arete (until after the crux). Just terrible feet and hands to sort of balance your way through to the jugs. Not wanting to be too spray-y, just hoping to see people out putting this one away again! My beta was pretty straightforward, but if anyone's interested, I'd be happ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls (5.12b/c)
By: SteveZ When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like there is a bolt to link the beginning of Balkan into this for two cruxes. Shouldn't really change the overall grade though as you have the no hands rest to recover.
Fun route!
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