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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Gates of Galas (5.10d X)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route yesterday via the route in the guide book and you do start about 50' up hill from where the 2nd rap touches down. The first 30' or so climbs up the right side of a huge block leaning against the main wall that is unprotected but not that hard, maybe 5.8. Once on top of the block you can place a bomber stopper at your feet but there is no other pro until your through the crux. If you look up on the face above the block you will also see an old quarter inch bolt and another... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : West Overhang (5.11a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just got back on this route yesterday and found that with the right sequence at the crux it probably is about 11a. It's still a heady lead, but all the holds are there at the crux if you do it right.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : Crack a Smile (5.12a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still only one fixed nut, there are good stances to place gear from though.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Huggys Pull-up (5.8)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a sandbag at 5.8, probably closer to 5.9 or 9+. If your a 5.8 leader get ready to flail.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : Rafting with Rednecks (aka ... (5.10c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good warm-up route with the crux starting right away and continuing for the first 3 bolts. After that the climbing easies up except for a couple moves near the top.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : Natural Born Drilla (5.12c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got on this route yesterday and was not impressed. Yes the climbing is hard and sustained but I thought the rock was dirty and the holds were sharp. Maybe if it got climbed more it would get better but there is no way this is a classic.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Ithaca (5.12a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Rob, this would be a 4 star route if it was a little cleaner, but it's still well worth doing. A note about the crux pitch: the fixed nut is not there and I didn't really see a spot where you could place one, but it's hard to see the crack when you're climbing it.
Also I wouldn't rate this pitch any harder than 11c, if you compare it to the crux on "All to Obvious" on Spearhead I thought it was definitely easier. It's heady though since I was only able to get good pro at the st... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower : West Face (5.7 C2)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is only a grade IV for a competent party. You can link 9 and 10 also and do it in 5 pitches.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some friends and I just made a new trail about a week ago on the north side of the cliff. Take the same dirt road as if your going to "The Wall" but stay straight instead of turning left. Follow the road for a half mile or so and take the first right and then the next right into a parking area with a fire ring. The trail is well marked and easy to follow and takes about 30 minutes to get to the base of the wall.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Mad Cow Disease (5.11-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route but the finish to the anchors is desperate for sure and harder than 11-.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall) : Black Cat Bone (5.10d)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun varied route thats worth getting on for sure. There are bolts everywhere you need them and the raps are pretty clean for Potrero. Be careful on the loose rock sections.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : Lower Virgin : El Balota (5.11d)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was slightly harder than "Don Quixote" but not hard enough to be a 5.12. I think it's right on the boarder line of 11+/12-.
Danes guide says the first ascent was made by Marco Curti, Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Paola Fanton and Luca Leoni in 1998.
Talk about a group effort.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : Lower Virgin : Don Quixote (5.11d)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route but some of the bolts are pretty rusty.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since when does "obvious climbing" and "positive holds" negate the X rating? The X rating is based on possible consequences if you fall and if you for some reason blew it on the first part of this route, then you're going to get jacked up for sure.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Foxtrot (5.11d PG13)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An anchor would be nice but at some point you need to draw the line between convenience and necessity. If you're able to climb this route, then the traverse to the anchor shouldn't really be that big of an issue. And there is adequate gear to protect the initial moves into the traverse so that kind of cancels out any argument for the anchor as a safety measure IMO.
I've used the existing anchor to set up topropes on "Foxtrot" and "Crazy Fingers" with directionals in place and never had any ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, I didn't say it would be an easy onsight. It's just a lot more climber friendly than say the "Wisdom" or even a route like "Foxtrot".
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd agree with Rob, this route is by far the easiest 5.12 that I've done in Eldo and the gear is pretty obvious for most of the pitch. If your looking for a potential 12a trad route to onsight in Eldo this one is probably your best bet.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Practice Climb 101 (5.12c R)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jan 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route rules! It took me a while to get the redpoint but I was always motivated to get back on it because it's so good. I'd still get back on it even after the redpoint. Thanks for the belays Rob, Joe, John and Carrie!
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Location: CO : Alpinist Re-launched
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet, that's good news for sure!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Onsight Baby! I messed with some gear at the big hold halfway up and after fiddling for a few seconds thought "F*#@ it I have a bucket" and kept climbing.
That's for you John, thanks for the belay!
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jan 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Those stainless bolt anchors must be new since I was there in 2006.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Fear and Loathing, III (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jan 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went right at the 6th bolt and had to do a pretty hard undercling move that felt like the crux. I did see two ticked holds going straight up though.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Photo
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Chambered Round (5.10)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd bring some extra .5 Camalots for this one, it's mostly fingers.
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Location: Rob Kepley : Yosemite Valley : Photo
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nutella Baby!
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