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Member Since: May 8, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 6, 2014
Contact steven sadler


Point Rank: # 4,836
Total Points: 81
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has steven sadler been climbing?










Contributions


All 118 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 46 | Posts 64 | Stars 3 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Xanadu (5.10a A3+)
By: steven sadler When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: I've talked to Calder about this line and it's supposed to be awesome clean corners all the way to the top, no loose, groveling pitches. However, the first pitch is 80 feet or so of just hooking with no bolts.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Park Avenue : Tilting at Windmills (5.8 A3)
By: steven sadler When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: I looked at the first pitch and it looked like it could be an awesome free climb. If I find the time I'll head down there and give it a go.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Park Avenue
By: steven sadler When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: What's the beautiful lightning bolt splitter on the face to the left of Cinnamon Rose? It looks hard, maybe .12. Anyone know?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Park Avenue : Cinnamon Rose (5.9) : Photo
By: steven sadler When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: I was there the other day and saw that awesome lightning bolt splitter on the face to the left of cinnamon rose. Looks hard, maybe 5.12 or so. Anyone know what that is? Pretty sure it's not zinger.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Eat the Rich (5.10c)
By: steven sadler When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Jumped on this not knowing what it was and it was a really good route. Came down thinking it was an 11a, maybe I'm just a wuss but there was quit a bit of tight fingers with not a lot of feet. Awesome route none the less.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (5.10+)
By: steven sadler When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: I'd agree with Pat Mac, the extension felt pretty hard, definitely in the harder 11's. I remember thinking 11+ when I got done. That said the extension was my favorite part of the route.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: steven sadler When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Has anyone done this route in late November or early December? Or just in the winter anytime? Just wondering if it is in the sun long enough to be doable in the cold.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Parking Lot Area : ... : Shothole Number One (V2 R)
By: steven sadler When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: I'm surprised this thing only gets a V2 rating. Felt a lot harder that that to me. Maybe it was just the fact that falling off this thing would result in some serious pain. A very good problem but harder, at least for me, than V2. You can climb the drilled out crack to the right of this and top rope the corner like I did when I got scared half way up the corner and bailed.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hogum Fork : Hogum's Heroes (5.11-)
By: steven sadler When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: So is the fourth pitch .11- or .11+? That's a pretty big difference and on a route that far back in there I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into before heading out there.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Disco Inferno (5.8 C2)
By: steven sadler When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: This route now has shiny new hardware up the bolt ladder pitch (pitch 5). Me and a buddy (Jordan Schaefer) went up and drilled and put in new 1/2" bolts in all the old blown out holes.
A few notes on the route:
1) Not sure how to run the first two pitches together. with the pendulum/tension traverses you'd have to really run it out after to cut rope drag down enough to make it possible.
2)The chimney pitch is scary but not horrible. If you start in the very back you can get some gear. Then ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatoween (5.11a)
By: steven sadler When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: Do you need to permit to bivy on this route?

edit: From what I've been able to find no permit is required to bivy on this route. Could someone verify this information?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon
By: steven sadler When: Dec 5, 2012

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Comments: I'm seeing some pictures of a lot of snow in this area. Is it too cold to climb here in December?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon
By: steven sadler When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Drove up to maverick buttress the other day in my girlfriends toyota yaris. Didn't have any problems at all. had to drive pretty slow a lot of the way but made it all the way to where the boulder hangs over the road. So unless your in a smart car, you can probably make it maverick buttress without any serious problems.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Unknown, left of Keyhole Fl... (5.10-) : Photo
By: steven sadler When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: a 120 lb girlfriend works well too. that's what we did.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: steven sadler When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: would anyone disagree with me removing that unnecessary bolt on pitch 4?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Out of Touch (5.9+ R)
By: steven sadler When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: Just before the roof you can get the best knee bar i've ever had. just adds to the fun of this route. Definately don't cheat yourself and go right. going straight up over the roof where the bolt is was awesome.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque
By: steven sadler When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: Went up this past weekend (june 29-july 1) and saw two rattlers on the hike up. Just about stepped on one of them. Be careful on the hike. gettin bit by one of those would definitely ruin your weekend


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c)
By: steven sadler When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: This is an amazing route. Definately a good one for those trying to push their limits. Don't overload on gear, a number 4 could be placed but 2's and 3's can go in above or below so don't bring it. I stick clipped the pin and the biner needs to be flipped upside down so it's not loaded on the nose of the biner. There is also a stuck stopper above the pin which made things nice.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Condor (5.12)
By: steven sadler When: Jun 15, 2012

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Comments: Tried this one out today and it's definitely soft for 12a but still an amazing route. Even above the crux the climbing stays fun with a sweet move to the chains.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Disco Inferno (5.8 C2)
By: steven sadler When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: I went climbing with Calder, the first ascentionist, and he said he would like bolts put in those holes if anyone feels up to it. He's just too lazy to get back up there and put them in himself.

EDIT: I just got off the phone with Calder and I will be heading up this route in the middle of march to put 1/2" bolts into the blown out holes. Seeing as how I've never done this route and Calder hasn't been on it since he first did it, if anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : MA 1 (5.10a)
By: steven sadler When: Jan 20, 2012

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Comments: Did this the other day and the traverse is way easy. Just run it out from the chains of the green A to the corner. Really fun climb with a really awkward move above the lie back.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Speed Trap : Mach 5 (5.11d)
By: steven sadler When: Aug 17, 2011

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Comments: I'm working this route and bolt one looks way rusted, bolt 2 is a spinner and the rest seem really good. I think this route is awesome. some big moves and once your off the big blocks there are no rests. very pumpy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Baby Blue (5.11a)
By: steven sadler When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: this is only the second 11a I've red pointed so whether the grade is sandbagged or not i couldn't tell ya. but this is an amazing climb. a number 1 camalot fits nice in the big flare right before the crux and it caught my 20+ foot fall(which was pretty scary because the route is only 30 or so feet tall). the crux can be lie backed but i just finger jammed that top part as well. could only fit the little fingers in but way more fun than liebacking. it's an amazing route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Flakes of Wrath Direct (5.11 R)
By: steven sadler When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: TR'd this route a couple of times. The 5.9+ big hands crack is pretty stiff. It's a funny angle so it's pretty strenuous. When i did it this last time someone had placed a bolt on the face but it's been removed. That section is run out but it would be a safe fall and that little runout section makes the climb way more fun and interesting. No need for a bolt there. Thanks to whoever removed it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Astro Lad (5.11a)
By: steven sadler When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: does anyone know anything about the upper pitches on this climb. Last time i was there i think i saw two pitches above the first.


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