Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Shoes for Industry (5.8+)
By: Steven Reneau When: May 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is currently a rap station with several slings, biners, and a screwlink at a sturdy 6" juniper slightly up and right from the end of the good climbing. Works with a 60 m rope. Also accessible by scrambling from tops of Pedernal Cracks and Shitake.
Crux roof can be bypassed left, keeping the climb ~5.6.
|
Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Senile Superhero (5.7)
By: Steven Reneau When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: p2 + p3 can be linked without bad rope drag.
|
Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Cave Woman (5.3)
By: Steven Reneau When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: To find the anchors, take a route straight up from the cave. They are not visible until you are almost there, at or just past the halfway point on a 60 m rope. If you trend right up the great looking rock above the cave you will end up on the shoulder below and right of the anchors, requiring a traverse. Fun route that can be led entirely with nuts.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Xibalba (5.10d)
By: Steven Reneau When: Feb 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed that P1 is 5.10a or easier. Extremely good bolting job on P1, closely spaced where needed to protect crux moves.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : Pejos Route (5.7)
By: Steven Reneau When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice TR route(s) to left of bolt line on or left of rib, ~5.9+ or 5.10- on rib or easier to left.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : The Fire Swamp (5.8)
By: Steven Reneau When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fifth bolt added last summer by Brett Kettering to reduce ground-fall potential, after consulting with the original bolters.
|
Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Mark's Crack (5.8)
By: Steven Reneau When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: #4.5 Camalot worked well as a first piece.
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (10) Red Light District : People Mover (5.6)
By: Steven Reneau When: Sep 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only found 3 bolts.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Unknown (5.7)
By: Steven Reneau When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: By route description and location, this seems to be a duplicate entry with "Evening Stroll", 5.8.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Face Value (5.9-)
By: Steven Reneau When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note that Stewart Green's book (2010, 2nd Ed., p. 337) has wrong location for Face Value. If you use his photo as a guide, you end up on Mike Johnson Route (5.10b).
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilder... : Coxcomb Peak : Southwest Chimney (5.6)
By: Steven Reneau When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the 4th class gully, there are a pair of chimneys. The broader left chimney is the standard route, where we found a stuck tri-cam last week. Rap anchors (slings around a boulder, with rap rings) are at the top of the right chimney; not visible on the way up, but easy enough to find on the way down.
|
Location: CO : Silverton area : The Stripe
By: Steven Reneau When: Jun 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: CR 31 not marked, but just past creek. 1.1 mi on good dirt road to 2nd set of old mining buildings, past gate (open, no private property signs). From there, 5 min walk to crag.
|
Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Bloody Fingers Corridor : Intruding Dike (5.7)
By: Steven Reneau When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Closest anchors are just left of where crack tops out, past fissure. Twist and Crawl. If you have a 60m, accessible farther left are Bloody Finger anchors.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : ... : Baby Jr. Gets Spanked (5.6)
By: Steven Reneau When: Apr 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the ground, the climb is ~95 ft long, with 7 bolts. Long scramble to the first bolt.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Tortilla Flats : Frijoles Crack (5.8)
By: Steven Reneau When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I’ve climbed this twice, and both times staying in the off-width seems like a stiff 5.8, at least. Alternative on this route is to bail on the crack and use face holds to the left.
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : The Sentinel : Almost Overlooked (5.7 PG13)
By: Steven Reneau When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the base, we tried the 1-inch crack and the face just left of it, ~8 ft right of the log. Perhaps more interesting than the crack with vege to the left, but the right crack ends at a ledge easily reachable from the ground, so didn’t add much. We did not find the button-head bolt, but found a piton with a screwgate down left from the short pine tree. Maybe we were left of the bulge, bypassing the crux? Reached the belay ledge at ~35 m. After traversing right below the P2 roof, joined the upper... more >>
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : The Sentinel : Lost Ledge (5.7)
By: Steven Reneau When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the descent, we found easy 4th class heading east (not south) to the east saddle, then descended north to join the approach route to the Sentinel. The “rap station” was puzzling, with the rap rings on the east side of the boulders, but set up poorly to rap east (which wasn’t needed). Perhaps set up instead for the Tyrolean traverse mountainproject.com/v/106588698?
|
Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station
By: Steven Reneau When: Jul 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of today, these routes are posted as closed (BLM sign at the base of the crag).
|
Location: CO : Buena Vista : Chocolate Tower
By: Steven Reneau When: Jul 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of today, the hangers are still missing from these routes, as noted by Ben Panter a few weeks ago.
|
Location: CO : Buena Vista : Turtle Rocks : Shoulder Season (5.6)
By: Steven Reneau When: Jul 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shoulder Season is ~75 ft left of Dr. Who. And ~100 ft farther left is a pair of TR anchors above what look to be some easier routes, I’m guessing for teaching beginners.
|
Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Boulder Wall : Corner Crack (5.7)
By: Steven Reneau When: Jul 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rap anchors are just out of sight from the base of the climb, a fair bit higher than the Grave Line anchors. Does anyone know if these work with a single 60 m rope?
|
RSS Feed
