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Member Since: Oct 12, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Steven Reneau


Point Rank: # 3,976
Total Points: 98
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (146) | Routes (5) | Areas | Photos | Comments (48) | Posts (2) | Stars (5) | Ratings (86)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Fourth Sister (FA)

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b (1)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'

NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : South Side, Big Enchilada

Jan 19, 2014

Route 3

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a (3)

Trad, TR, 50'

NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : South Side, Big Enchilada

Mar 22, 2009

Three Sisters

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c (7)

Trad, TR, 50'

NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : South Side, Big Enchilada

Mar 21, 2009

Route 19

5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a (5)

Trad, TR, 50'

NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : South Side, Big Enchilada

Mar 21, 2009

Route 5

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a (2)

Trad, TR, 50'

NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : South Side, Big Enchilada

Mar 21, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : New New Place : Unnamed (5.6)
By: Steven Reneau When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Similar in difficulty to Beginners 5.7, to right.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Sunbaked (5.10)
By: Steven Reneau When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Notably stiffer than Protein Supplement, consistent with Beverly's rating of 5.10+ vs. 5.10a for PS.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Walkway (5.4 PG13)
By: Steven Reneau When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Agree that the start is more like 5.6.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Lower Freeway Wall : False False Smooth as Silk (5.4)
By: Steven Reneau When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: With a 70 m rope, you can do a single rope rap from a large slung chock stone just right of the top of the climb, taking you to easy scrambling near the start. Might need to reinforce the rap station.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Search for Klingons (5.7 PG13)
By: Steven Reneau When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: A bit over 100' to the anchors, with midpoint of 60 m rope ~10'' above ground. Single rope rap might work with stretch, but not sure.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : I Love my Marine (5.5)
By: Steven Reneau When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: 6 bolts, 3 above pin, 3 below.


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Looking Glass Rock
By: Steven Reneau When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: On 11/1/13 the first dirt road to the start of the "Regular Route" (aka "East Rib") was passable for high clearance 4x4, but not regular cars.

From the top, members of our party saw anchors and bolts on the south rib, the extension directly above the arch, and decided we should give it a try. 1st pitch was low 5th class up a crack system starting on the SE side of the south rib (no bolts), ending at a series of 6 bolted anchors, two with slings and a link for rapping, + one old ring piton, on a... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf
By: Steven Reneau When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: Climbed Sugarloaf 10/22 by Ingram’s 4th class route (his “Normal Route”, web.nmsu.edu/~amato/ingrahamguide/Sugarloaf/Sugarloaf_master>>>, perhaps low 5th class by today’s rating; some like ropes for this route (see SummitPost entry for more description). Can be approached from Aguirre Springs, heading to base of North Face and into drainage to east. Upper part of this route passes old rap stations (East Side Rap (‘C’)?), which would need work.

Confirmed that one 60 m rope sho... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Aspen Alley : Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) (5.8)
By: Steven Reneau When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Hanger missing on bolt today, but bolt can be slung with a wire for pro.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Aspen Alley : Analog Analogy (5.11c/d)
By: Steven Reneau When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Hangers missing today, but bolts remain.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Frog
By: Steven Reneau When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: We thought rock quality was mostly good, with the 4th class 3rd pitch being a notable exception (loose blocks; would have tried the direct finish except for lateness and wind). Protection also seemed generally good, and only got runout in a couple places (but had to meander a bit to find places to place good pro). Overall, an enjoyable climb.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Shoes for Industry (5.8+)
By: Steven Reneau When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: There is currently a rap station with several slings, biners, and a screwlink at a sturdy 6" juniper slightly up and right from the end of the good climbing. Works with a 60 m rope. Also accessible by scrambling from tops of Pedernal Cracks and Shitake.

Crux roof can be bypassed left, keeping the climb ~5.6.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Senile Superhero (5.7)
By: Steven Reneau When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: p2 + p3 can be linked without bad rope drag.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Cave Woman (5.3)
By: Steven Reneau When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: To find the anchors, take a route straight up from the cave. They are not visible until you are almost there, at or just past the halfway point on a 60 m rope. If you trend right up the great looking rock above the cave you will end up on the shoulder below and right of the anchors, requiring a traverse. Fun route that can be led entirely with nuts.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Xibalba (5.10d)
By: Steven Reneau When: Feb 23, 2013

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Comments: Agreed that P1 is 5.10a or easier. Extremely good bolting job on P1, closely spaced where needed to protect crux moves.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : Pejos Route (5.7)
By: Steven Reneau When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: Nice TR route(s) to left of bolt line on or left of rib, ~5.9+ or 5.10- on rib or easier to left.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : The Fire Swamp (5.8)
By: Steven Reneau When: Oct 11, 2012

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Comments: Fifth bolt added last summer by Brett Kettering to reduce ground-fall potential, after consulting with the original bolters.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Mark's Crack (5.8)
By: Steven Reneau When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: #4.5 Camalot worked well as a first piece.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Unknown (5.7)
By: Steven Reneau When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: By route description and location, this seems to be a duplicate entry with "Evening Stroll", 5.8.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Face Value (5.9-)
By: Steven Reneau When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: Note that Stewart Green's book (2010, 2nd Ed., p. 337) has wrong location for Face Value. If you use his photo as a guide, you end up on Mike Johnson Route (5.10b).


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