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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : El Padre (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It took us about an hour to find the rap anchor and the discription for finding it is way off (we used the description for Crystal Vision)! For one, they are not in a gully and they are about 80' down from the rim, not 30' to 40'. The best way to find them is to head towards the Painted Wall View Point and then break right off the trail once your close to the rim. Follow the rim for about 100' to 150', and look for a cairn and a worn climber's trail heading down a gap in the rim. Downclimb a... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Long Canyon North : Chalk is Cheap (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good route but the first pitch seemed rather improbable, especially at 12-.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Long Canyon North : Dawn of an Error (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some hard climbing getting above the first anchor and then it eases up to the second anchor. Great route!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Lean and Green (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Karl Kelley
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Disappointment Cliffs : 2 Much (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I do remember seeing a splitter fist crack about 100 yards to the right of this route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Breakfast Social (5.10-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Karl Kelley
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Hand Solo (5.9)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Karl Kelley
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Solo East (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Karl Kelley
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Solo West (5.11-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Karl Kelley
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mega Cassic route!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : The Shipyard : Torpedo Bay (5.12c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route but there is no way that its 12c when compaired to other 12's in the area. The stance in the middle makes it a very reasonable onsight and a set of stoppers, as MIYG recommended, is definitely the ticket for the middle section.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Northside Routes : Trail of The Navajo (5.11c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route! Calling this the Astroman of the desert isn't to far off either.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Northside Routes : Trail of The Navajo (5.11c) : Photo
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That pitch was pretty wild! Never done moves like that before.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : North Fork
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with Jakobi's sentiments completely. While this area is undoubtedly beautiful, so to are most places in this region but that does not mean that we should never visit them. There are two reasons that climbing areas become popular, one is high quality routes and the other is easy access. And while the North Fork has some fun routes I wouldn't place it in either of those categories, so your fear of it being overrun is unwarranted. And knowing the person who developed this area p... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : ... : Ass Over Teacup (5.11a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure how this could be considered 11a unless I completely missed the sequence at the crux? I can typically onsight up to 11d at most areas and I couldn't even figure this one out no matter what I tried.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11) : Photo
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Dec 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh they were all going up and then rapping back down from Heart. We were the only party actually continuing up the Salathe Wall.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One word, "Aliens"! Used all sizes on almost every pitch. Also used a bunch of offset stoppers from small brassies to the largest DMM offset. Found a pink tri-cam to be pretty crucial at the crux under the roof. It wasn't the most inspiring piece but it held body weight and a light bounce test.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat Burglar (5.12)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My rack recommendation would be (3) .3 Camalots and (4) .4 Camalots. A green alien works well at the crux.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Suburbia : Killer (5.12a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just fixed the discription and the gear beta.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw : North Wall Little Italy Can... : Tracy (5.10d)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Handcrack if you can jam tight #1 and .75 Camalots.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw : North Wall Little Italy Can... : Round & Up (5.11d)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hardest 11d I've ever tried. Sandbag?
Gear: (1)Green Alien, .3 Camalot, (2).4, (3).5, (6).75, (4)Quickdraws.
Stopped at first anchor but the crack continues through a huge overhang to a second anchor.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Money (5.10)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bottoms not bad but there was a super hollow flake about halfway up thats no longer there, we kicked it off.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Suburbia : R.I.L.F. (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Completely horizontal
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Suburbia : R.I.L.F. (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the catch and the pictures Jake!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Family Home Night (5.12)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bomber blue Alien and or .2 Camalot (I place both) protect the middle face section just fine. I just climb up a couple feet off the ledge, place and clip the gear and then climb back down to rest. If your short the gear placements might be hard to reach.
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