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Member Since: Jul 8, 2005
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Steven Lucarelli

Point Rank: # 94
Total Points: 4,371
Last Year: 292
Last 30 Days: 12
202 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 4082 | Routes 233 | Areas 62 | Photos 182 | Page Improvements | Comments 201 | Posts 92 | Stars 1784 | Ratings 1528
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Mostly vertical with a few small sections that are a little steeper and some less than vertical as well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : Axis of Evil (5.12b/c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 22, 2015

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Comments: .4's & .5's work better. A gray Alien or two is perfect.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Just climbed this and have some additional beta that might be helpful for pitches 9 & 10. On the topo, the pitch 9 belay looks like it's right next to the peg band, but it's actually about 8' to the right on a right slanting ledge. The best way to reach it is to climb the peg until you get to the final good #2 Camalot hand crack. Then make some thin face move directly right to good edges and the anchor. The anchor consists of one new bolt and a loose knifeblade that can be wiggled out by h... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Laos : Thakhek
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: This area is fun with routes for all abilities but a word of caution should be made about the anchors. For some reason all the anchors are composed of two bolts connected to each other by an old piece of rope that is not equalized. One of the bolts will have one quick link on it that is used for lowering or rappelling from, making the second bolt virtually useless. If the bolt your lowering off of was to fail the second bolt would be shock loaded by the old piece of rope which would most like... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: 5.9 is the hardest "mandatory" free climbing on the route but if you can climb harder then that's up to you.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : The Bugaboos
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Some people do and some even go without anything (just approach shoes!). It really depends on the snow/glacier conditions, your objectives and your comfort level. I personally prefer a light set of aluminum crampons and light mountaineering boots. The crampons for the added security and the boots for stability and dry feet. Its not the lightest or least bulky set up by any means but I can access anything I want, such as North Howser and not have to worry about it.

If your not going to far... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Maceo (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: One 70m rope will get you down from the anchor.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Felix (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: A pretty bold route by Indian Creek standards but worth doing if your up for it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Paper Crane (5.13a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Josh, my friend found some key beta on the last crux move that I feel drops the grade one letter. The way I was originally trying it (same as in your photos) would warrant the coveted 13a grade but the alternate beta makes this sequence much much easier.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Its possible to rap off this route with one 70m rope. The first rap reaches with rope stretch and you'll have to stop at the intermediate belay in the chimney for the last rap to reach.

I used one #1 Camalot and one offset stopper for the last pitch.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Are there any shady walls worth climbing at this time of year?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bullwinkle Tower
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: The anchor is now down to one slightly loose bolt and a bunch of webbing wrapped around a bomber block. If the bolt ever comes out the block would be more than adequate. If the bolt anchor ever gets replaced some glue-ins in the existing holes would be a better option.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Merrimac Butte, The Albatro... (5.11c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Extra-extra #1's and .75's. Anything bigger than a #2 Camalot is just extra weight.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : super bubbushka (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: I think most people will find this route very stout for the grade. I would describe the crux as off-balance and insecure, but the gear is good despite its small size.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Paper Crane (5.13a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: This is an amazing route! I thought it was even better than The Trad Warrior!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed (5.10+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Yeah I saw that route but the crack sizes and gear description were way off so I figured he must be describing another route. This thing is definitely .5 camalots at the start which gradually widen to baggy .75s or super tight #1's. Then there is another section of .5's followed by a short OW and about 60' of hands to the anchor. The crack doesn't get wider the higher you go it is pretty much a hand crack all the way to the anchor with a few pods. Also a 70m rope does reach the ground ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : ... : Photo
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, that's pitch 3.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Voodoo Child (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: An outstanding desert adventure but you better be solid at the grade and an experienced desert climber. Jay Smith sure has an eye for good lines!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Bioturbation Wall : Just the Tips (5.12)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: This route is sweet! There is bomber gear all the way up it but a couple of the thin placements at the top are tricky to find and wiggle in. I thought the following rack was perfect to sew it up.

(2).1 (black alien), (1).3, (3).4, (2).5 & (3).75


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Air Voyage (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this route yesterday, and Greg's description of the 12- OW is dead on. It doesn't look that bad, but man is it hard! After two attempts, I gave in to the old French Free. Would love to know what the technique is for getting up this pitch, or maybe it just comes down to some serious fitness? 5.11 C1 for me!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Paper Crane (5.13a) : Photo (Copy)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: My friend figured out a cross-over move here that is way easier than what is shown in this picture. The cross-over beta probably drops the grade to 12d.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Sacred Cow (5.12c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: There isn't a move of 5.12 on this route but you'll have a 5.12 pump by the time you get to the top of the headwall.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Hydroponic Pork (5.10+ PG13)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: The start is a little spicy but a black alien or .1 camalot seemed pretty bomber before committing to the face moves.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Trad Warrior (5.12+ PG13)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: This route deserves more than 4 stars! One of the best pitches I've done in Upper or Lower Mill Creek, or anywhere for that matter!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Jewel of Denial (5.11-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Hardest 11- at the Creek? I've climbed 11+ easier than this route.


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