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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : The Slabs : Sliding Board (5.7 R)
By: Steve Marr When: Nov 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: We "discovered" an interesting variation to Sliding Board when there was a steady stream of water trickling down the second pitch. From the first belay, step right, climb up a steep slab, and gain the 2nd pitch of Tidal Wave. Follow the white rock just above the rim of the arch in one long, run out pitch to a horizontal flake. You can get a little protection in a flaring crack before traversing right to a bolted anchor (clipping into the anchors was a relief). Rejoin Sliding Board's 4th pitc... more >>
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Location: AK : Fairbanks Environs: East Gr...
By: Steve Marr When: Aug 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Of the two trails that lead out of parking lot, the South Trail is the most conspicuous of the two. The North Trail is fainter, and located about 100 feet back along the road (towards the highway). Both trails gain elevation quickly but are fairly easy. The south trail is a little more developed than the north. Heading up the south trail, you'll pass by the southern end of Lowest Rock after a few minutes, followed by Gorilla Rock. Continue up the path straight to the Twin Towers. From the ... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Junco (5.8+)
By: Steve Marr When: Apr 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. A long sling is useful at the third bolt. The layback moves near the top will make you think.
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Location: MA : Crow Hill : Main Face : Intertwine (5.8)
By: Steve Marr When: Jan 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb that protects well, especially at the crux. It looks easier than it is, and the crux moves are stout (like all of the other climbs at Crow Hill), but very well protected. The hand jams at the top of the crack can be a little slick.
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Dead Cats : Smelling Cat Calvin (5.8)
By: Steve Marr When: Jan 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I probably have the name of this route wrong. If anyone knows the correct name, please let me know and I'll update. Thanks.
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch
By: Steve Marr When: Dec 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can download a number of .pdf topos for the climbing areas at Reimer's Ranch from the Texas Climbers web site (texasclimbers.com):
Reimer's Ranch Topos
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Yellow Corner (5.5)
By: Steve Marr When: Nov 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route for the grade, but the gear can be a little tricky to place. Many of the cracks are flaring, and the protection isn't as straight forward as on other 5.5s.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Aerial Anticipation : Shake Your Groove Thing (5.6)
By: Steve Marr When: Nov 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic climb - fun climbing, some interesting moves above the roof, great exposure, and a free rappel back to the water at the base of the route. Take care not to get your rope too wet.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Lichen Wall : Old Number 7 (5.7)
By: Steve Marr When: Nov 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a great descent from Old Number 7, continue up the chimney that Craig describes. From the top of the chimney, its a short scramble up and right to the anchors above Legion of Doom and Spaceballs. The rappel from the top of Spaceballs is a long, mostly free rappel back to the ground.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura...
By: Steve Marr When: Sep 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a quick overview of the climbing at E-Rock, download a map produced by the TPWD on their web site (www.tpwd.state.tx.us):
E-Rock Climbing Overview
It's not very detailed, but it will get you to the general area. There is also a "select" list of climbs throughout the park on the 2nd page.
The TPWD website contains a lot of additional information on the park such as camping and hiking trails.
[[E-R... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : The Luminosity (5.9)
By: Steve Marr When: Aug 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was another great route on Solaris. Fun, sustained climbing to the anchors, with great position. The final moves up the arcing hand crack just below the anchors are great. I would agree with Ron - the best route on Solaris, and worth going back to.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Contact (5.9)
By: Steve Marr When: Aug 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a great route, and definitely worth the visit. The first pitch felt a little harder than 5.7 at the third bolt. You can't see the P1 anchors until you are past the fourth bolt and pull up onto the ledge. The second pitch was a lot of fun - great climbing throughout on great rock. The crux comes early at the second bolt, followed by a fun transition from face to slab just below the anchors. The anchors are in a great position with good views up the canyon. Definitely reco... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark : Dark Tower (5.6)
By: Steve Marr When: Aug 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: No ants as of July 2006, but still not worth hauling a rack up to the crag for. The climbing was easy, but I thought the pro was less than great. The line looks better than it is.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark : Glennevere (5.8+)
By: Steve Marr When: Aug 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the route wasn't too bad for the crag - the upper section above the small roof was definitely better. It felt harder than the other 5.8s at the crag - probably due to the steeper nature of the face. We scrambled up to a shelf running below Glennevere, Twin Peaks, and Dark Tower to belay from.
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Tower Crack (5.7)
By: Steve Marr When: Jun 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route. I would agree with everything Paul says - steep, short, and strenuous. The crack is actually smaller than it appears from the ground, and protects well with a couple stoppers and some medium-sized cams. Makes a great exit pitch off Wiessner's Slab.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Whittle Wall, The (5.7 R)
By: Steve Marr When: Nov 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: We tried this route a couple of weeks ago, and I definitely agree with the comments. The 's' rating on this one is significant. I used quite a bit of pro on the first pitch, but placements around the crux (just above the ramp) are difficult to find and dubious at best. The rock is solid, and there are good hands, but the [feet] didn't inspire much confidence. I also agree with Ivan's comment that the route description appears to be a bit off. Be careful where you place protection down low, ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : College Drop Out aka East F... (5.7)
By: Steve Marr When: Nov 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route that avoids the crowds on the Standard Route. Some of the best moves on the route are the transition to the face on the second pitch (above the tree). About half way between the tree and the base of the PhD Roof, look for a large, pointed flake that points toward the roof. This is where we climbed up and over - steep, but good holds, good protection, and not a lot of lichen. You could also transition to the face from the first belay at the tree, but rope drag might be a problem.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Old Dihedral (5.8)
By: Steve Marr When: Nov 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route with great pro and positive edges all of the way to the top. Well worth the effort if you brought trad gear. An easy way to set up a top rope on Joint Venture.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Sun Dancer (5.8)
By: Steve Marr When: Jun 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route - one of the best pitches that I've climbed. Charles' comments are right on. Once you climb over the chockstone, you're committed to the route. I thought that the crux was located about 20 or 30 feet above the start of the crack. We also used double ropes, which significantly reduced the rope drag. If using a single rope, bring lots of slings. Great pro, great rock, and great climbing.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Credibility Gap (5.9+)
By: Steve Marr When: Jul 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. Climbed Credibility Gap on June 16th, 2004. The rock was solid, and we didn't have any problems with sandy or brittle holds. The runout to the first bolt can be protected by slinging a blunt horn about 1/2 way up from the ground. Additionally, there is another pot hole between the last pin and the anchor that will provide a little security for the final moves to the anchor. The last two pins are about 18" apart, and the upper pin is a little loose. Well worth the time.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Strategery (5.7)
By: Steve Marr When: Jul 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy route to end the day with. This is the last route uphill before reaching the Top Rope area, and is immediately across from Edge of Time. From the start, climb to the first bolt and then traverse left to a dihedral. The remaining bolts are located in a line up the groove. The crux is between the second and third bolt with some awkward moves through the dihedral. Short, but enjoyable.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Mighty Young Joe aka Captai... (5.8)
By: Steve Marr When: Jul 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! The crux is getting past the thin slab at the start and placing your fist piece in the dihedral. Once in the dihedral, there are plenty of good stances along the route to place additional pro. The goofy anchor at the top is a steel cable wrapped around a block with rap rings backed up with a ratty sling. It looked solid, and we made it to the ground in one piece...
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : La Chaim (5.7 R)
By: Steve Marr When: Jul 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's possible to climb La Chaim in a single pitch with some moderate scrambling. We climbing up to the ledge with the tree and belayed from there. From the ledge, climb straight up, clipping the first three bolts on Salud (fun climbing over the small overhand). At the third bolt, break right, climb through some broken looking rock (solid), and aim for the finger crack. Follow the crack to the ledge and walk off. The crack is a lot of fun and well worth doing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: Steve Marr When: Jul 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would have to agree with some of the other comments that it's the final pitch that makes this a great climb. The first two are good, but not stellar. We used a slightly different belay after the first pitch. Instead of belaying in the dihedral like the book shows (small pro), I traversed along the wide crack that leads to the arete and belayed at the end. It was interesting. There is an old fixed pin directly above the belay. On the second pitch, we climbed the face directly above the di... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Moor's Crossing (5.6)
By: Steve Marr When: Apr 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would definitely agree with the comments made about the first pitch of this route listed under Barf Bucket Traverse. "If you happen to be anything larger than a 42" shoulder and taller than, say, 5'9" don't try to finish the pitch by going behind the choke stone." I'm 6'3" and unfortunately didn't read that until after flailing miserably on this route! There is no way around that chock stone. We even scrambled up to the top and rapped off the sling anchor at the top of pitch one to find a ... more >>
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