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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Owen Spalding (5.4) : Photo
By: Steve Knapp When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot, this really shows the exposure!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Petered Out (5.9)
By: Steve Knapp When: May 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed BRCM on 5/16. Here are some comments from Chris, who led 6/7 pitches. I led the easier last pitch. Pretty amazing climb!
General Comments – First 2 Pitches
The 5.9 pitches below the Gum Drop are intense and relentless. I feeling was a bit frazzled by the time we reached the Gum Drop. The dihedral off-width cracks are awkward and strenuous (…all I have to say is cav burn), and eat-up gear if your not comfortable running it out. I would suggest doubling if not tripling up on sizes @POU... more >>
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Rusty's Crack (5.10a) : Photo
By: Steve Knapp When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny, nice humping! Great to run into you guys at Shelf Road today.
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : LaCholla Jackson (5.9)
By: Steve Knapp When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fantastic route. I felt the crux was around the 2nd bolt, the crack is too thin for use there but there are some good pockets. Look around closely for footholds, they are there. Above that the route is consistent 5.8 with some nice hand jams and small ledges for feet. There even a section to use a crack for the right hand and another for the left. Cool! Super fun route and highly recommended for moderate leaders. Mostly left handed clips, probably easier to keep most of the draws on th... more >>
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Ol' 47 (5.9)
By: Steve Knapp When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This felt pretty tough for the grade, even on toprope. Crux is getting over a bulge near the 3rd or 4th bolt. There the good feet basically end and you are left with some rough limestone with a few small pockets and crimps for hands. It is sharp and can hurt the fingers. Bolts are a bit widely spaced and it wouldn't be good to fall before a clip. One nice thing is you can bail right to the flake if the going gets too tough (yeah, I must admit I had to do that). Maybe I'll get it next time.
Sho... more >>
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Solar Eclipse (5.9)
By: Steve Knapp When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a 3-star route on lead if only the bolts were closer to it. It does not make much sense to move way left off of the route to use the Red Eclipse bolts. Instead, toprope it from the anchors on Red Eclipse, which can also be reached by leading Ian's. Solar Eclipse is a fine line with a crack that narrows to fingers in spots and disappears in others. A couple nice jugs along the way to keep it moderate. Hardest moves seem about 5.9.
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Ian's Route (5.8+)
By: Steve Knapp When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice fun crack just right of super easy Alexi's route. Crux is near the second bolt, but the holds are all there. Agree that it's a touch harder than 5.7 at the crux. Also a bit harder than 5.7 if you stay on the face/arete at the last bolt instead of moving left near the Alexi's route anchor. This is a good route to use to setup a top rop for Red Eclipse or Solar Eclipse (which we did and enjoyed profusely).
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : You Show Me Your Heavy Weap... (5.7)
By: Steve Knapp When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Follow the flake, this is a fun moderate lead. Perhaps a little spicy at the grade with a bit of a runout in the middle. This route is also an easy bailout option for OL'47. It can be toproped most easily from the Black Sabbeth anchors higher and to the right. The advantage to that is you can get about 20 feet of more good moderate climbing in what would be a very runout section on lead.
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Black Slabbeth (5.10a)
By: Steve Knapp When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Joe. The only 10a moves on this route are probably on the face. The crack to the right of the bolts is fun though and probably goes at 5.9 only on the toughest move. It is a worthy route though any way you do it. A couple nice finger jams in the crack.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Honky Jam Ass Crack (5.7)
By: Steve Knapp When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this route, one of my few true crack climbing leads. It was enjoyable with a tricky crux. The crux is about 2/3 way up where you really have to rely on the hand jams because the crack won't take feet there. This climb is great because you can jam the crack for practice as well as find other holds outside of the crack.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Steve Knapp When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice pic! I'm glad we don't have to deal with these in Colorado. The snakes are bad enough.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : ... : Photo
By: Steve Knapp When: Sep 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a great photo Dave. Makes our extra credit approach a little more worthwhile!
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Virgin Bolters (5.9-)
By: Steve Knapp When: Sep 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice short route with a tough crux. I had to grab a finger pocket and pull up mainly from that. Enjoyable.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : Pockets a' Plenty (5.9)
By: Steve Knapp When: Sep 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is the most fun of the three on the Whale's Tail. We weren't even sure what we were climbing until later. Crux is tricky and the finger pockets are fun. Long route! The two big holes below the anchors are interesting and make for a good stance while clipping the anchors. Oh yeah, poison ivy right on the route below and right of the first bolt.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Route Canal (5.9)
By: Steve Knapp When: Sep 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be done on toprope using the same anchor as Gondolier Arete after someone has led it. Super fun crack in a dihedral. Would be a very nice lead.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Hiatus (5.7)
By: Steve Knapp When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a sweet route, our second at Lumpy. We only did two pitches and walked off. P1 seems the most spicy and is a bit run out. The crack disappears and you must make some moves on the face below the roof. Traversing below the roof is tough too with questionable gear. P2 is super classic and a lot of fun. Nice layback on the dihedral allowing you to weight the feet. When the crack disappears up high you can stem out to another crack to the left. I really loved P2.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : White Whale (5.7)
By: Steve Knapp When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did all four pitches on this, our first ever at Lumpy. Awesome route! P1 is mostly easy with the toughest move at the flake below the belay tree. Nice finger crack there. P2 is totally sweet with a nice hand crack most of the way. Lots of places for nuts and cams. Slightly runout below the alcove at the end of the pitch. There is a fixed nut up there which I clipped. P3 is also fun but much more run out. You can walk off from the top of P2 if you don't want to do P3. P4 is also optional and s... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : Jumping the Gun (5.9+)
By: Steve Knapp When: Aug 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my favorite route of the four we did this evening. The hardest part was getting to the 1st bolt. Try to find the grippiest rock and enough hands to take a bit of pressure off the feet to prevent slippage. After the 1st bolt it's all fun, some big reaches to jugs on a few ledge systems.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Sayers' Wall : Electric Swimming Pool (5.9)
By: Steve Knapp When: Aug 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a challenging route for the grade. Slabby start with a few solution pockets to grab. Crux was between 3rd and 4th bolt. The key is an ascending traverse to the left on a ledge system only about an inch wide, then standing up with nearly nothing to hang onto and reaching way up for a hold. The crux can be bypassed with an easier 5.8 section to the right.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : The Dungeon : Whackbusher (5.6)
By: Steve Knapp When: Aug 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be toproped from slings around a rock at the top, backed up with a #3 cam. The route could be led as well.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Rat's Nest (5.8)
By: Steve Knapp When: Mar 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjoyed this climb on toprope. First move is tough for shorter people, but I am just tall enough (6'2") to reach the rats nest from the ground. I followed the crack all the way, but you can move onto the face as well. If you go all the way onto the rim, the last move is sweet.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Hot Fudge (5.8)
By: Steve Knapp When: Mar 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a fun route on toprope. The undercling below the roof is nice, though I slipped once but did not hit the deck (big pendulum swing). A bit tougher where the crack goes vertical, this was the crux for me. It wasn't stylish, but I made it up.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Easy Chimney (5.6)
By: Steve Knapp When: Nov 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this on Saturday, my first ever lead at Turkey Perch. I used four cams and a couple nuts. Nice offwidth, you have to alternate between having your whole body in the crack to just hand jams in other spots. A couple tough moves but nothing too hairy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Steve Knapp When: Nov 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on Saturday with two other guys. Simul-climbed the entire route including the rap in one hour. It was awesome. The rap from the Sea of Joy is incredible. We were using twin ropes which did not supply much friction for the rappel. Wish I had brought gloves for that, ouch! Never saw anybody else up there. This is a great climb.
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