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Where two deserts meet, 5.8 JT


Member Since: Jun 5, 2008
Last Visit: Sep 19, 2012
Contact steve richert


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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 26 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 9 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Where two deserts meet, 5.8 JT

Where two deserts meet, 5.8 JT

steve richert : Living the dream

Jan 29, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : The Thumb Aid Climb (C2)
By: steve richert When: Mar 24, 2012

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Comments: This was my first aid route ever. As of 3.24.12 the bolts and fixed gear held my 185lbs plus gear. I would definitely advise bringing a selection of nuts, to capture the bolts as some of the hangers are akin to a rusty potato chip and others are worn more than half through. The bolts themselves seemed passable. Well I guess they WERE passable really. I brought a standard BD hook with me and was glad to have it, both towards the beginning and pulling onto the ledge at the end.

Fun route, can't ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: steve richert When: Jan 29, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for all the info here! I am thinking about a trip out here Mid Feb, but I was a little concerned after googling the ranch and reading about what seems to be a big problem they are having with illegal immigrant traffic in the area--I am not local to the southwest and I don't have much experience to draw on regarding this issue-usually, I keep a low profile and follow the golden rule-with good results. Is this something that I should be concerned about? Thanks!

Steve


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon
By: steve richert When: Jan 29, 2012

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Comments: Hi everyone- I am going to be in the area around mid Feb as part of a project I am doing to raise awareness for type1 diabetes by climbing every day for 365 days and I would like a little beta on the area if someone would be able to drop me an email steve@livingvertical.org I would REALLY appreciate it!

It would just be my wife and I, nothing major or obtrusive--we just are looking for places to climb that will have favorable weather at this time of year and we are going to be in the area hosti... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders
By: steve richert When: Jan 19, 2012

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Comments: Just a heads up, on the LEFTMOST of the mudball cracks, there is a bees nest. It is probably best to avoid this. I was initially told it was a wasps nest, but upon slightly closer inspection I saw a pretty extensive honeycomb in there! Bees are endangered right now, so I am giving them a wide berth...ish. We climbed the other two cracks and faces and didn't seem to stoke their ire.

pictures here on my blog livingvertical.org/2012/01/19/...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: steve richert When: Jun 2, 2011

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Comments: One way to help protect the second from rope stretch-induced groundfall is to have the second pull all of the stretch out of the cord and the belayer can take up the slack created. By climbing before the rope regains its elasticity (I believe 30 sec to a minute)any falls will be subject to far less rope stretch. This is the same reason it is advised that when projecting a route and taking repeated falls, it is best to give the rope a bit to recover between burns. I climbed this today and that fi... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Layback (5.5)
By: steve richert When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: I climbed this on memorial day, and it was pretty moist in the chimney--I hope to try running up the face as an alternative next time, since that chimney seems difficult to climb gracefully! The layback section above is all there, but much trickier without some wide gear, as has been mentioned here. I found myself up a creek without a #3 or 4 Camalot, and there was some definite pucker factor. If you are long enough to cheat out to the left of the crack, it is possible to get a nut (and/or... more >>


Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Rock Springs Buttress
By: steve richert When: May 18, 2011

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Comments: is it possible to bivvy in ones car on this service road?


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Circus Wall : Barbarian (5.6 R)
By: steve richert When: Aug 16, 2010

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Comments: P2 and 3 are seldom climbed. I know P1 gets climbed more than...well it gets a lot of traffic. What a splendid route. It would be nice if there was a bit more clarity in the guidebook about what route goes where because between bolts and pins you are potentially looking as rope drag which is no fun...


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Hillside Area : The Painted Crack Area : ... : Photo
By: steve richert When: Nov 6, 2009

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Comments: I did a route that looked to be relatively well traveled but that I haven't seen listed in any guides or on here- it is on the left side of the boulder- sit start underneath on a rail then a hard pull to gain a crimp then over the lip and up on easy holds. It felt about v3+ to me but I can never tell...I would love to hear from anyone else who has done this.

Thanks!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : The Tower (5.7)
By: steve richert When: Oct 17, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun route but I would say for the new leader, the crux move is a bit committing since blowing this move could cause you to ledge out with one or both feet. My wife had an easier time though and she is short...I am 6'3 and it was a real stumper for me.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: steve richert When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: where? ;)


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Reef 1 : Way Cool Junior (5.7)
By: steve richert When: Jul 18, 2008

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Comments: I dont see the point in having a bolt at eye-level (when standing on the ground) and then a 18 foot run-out to the next bolt. Its illogical as well as unsafe.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: steve richert When: Jul 5, 2008

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Comments: Hi folks, I am going to be heading out to Spearfish in a few weeks and I was just wondering what the camping situation is like- especially dispersed camping/free camping. Any info/help is greatly appreciated. That said, I am totally psyched to come out- it seems like a wonderful area with a great community.

Steve


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s...
By: steve richert When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: That sounds awesome. I am coming out in a few weeks to learn the ways of the offwidth (and history, if someone is giving dissertations on how what now is once was).


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets
By: steve richert When: Jun 22, 2008

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Comments: Question, since I see mention of the simul rap here... I am not adverse to simul rapping, however my belayer is about 90 pounds lighter than me...we will be visiting this summer by the way... and I have done a couple simul raps with larger partners who wont be on this road trip...that said, is it possible to simul rap with that weight disparity?


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: How hard do people really climb?General Climbingsteve richertJun 6, 2011
Lost Gear at the Gunks (Yellow Ridge) 11.20Lost and Foundsteve richertNov 21, 2010
re: Backpack suggestionsClimbing Gear Reviewssteve richertOct 25, 2010
Lost sunglasses at Circus Wall in Snow CanyonSouthern Utah Desertssteve richertAug 15, 2010
re: Zion, coffee shop lies, attitudes...Southern Utah Desertssteve richertFeb 20, 2010
re: Lost CityEastern Statessteve richertJan 27, 2010
re: San Diego area climbsSouthern Californiasteve richertJan 11, 2010
re: SLCA shows poor etiquetteNorthern Utah & Idahosteve richertOct 24, 2009
re: Is climbing important?General Climbingsteve richertOct 23, 2009
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