Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sundevil Chimney, Titan


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Steve Levin


Point Rank: # 391
Total Points: 1,393
Last Year: 67
Last 30 Days: 0
31 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Steve Levin been climbing?










Contributions


All (600) | Routes (86) | Areas (4) | Photos (54) | Comments (203) | Posts (154) | Stars (94) | Ratings (5)
Page 7 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 4, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: It is possible to sneak left around the corner from the base of the 4th pitch and avoid the upper 2 pitches. Just follow T2 to the top (5.8s from this point).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Rain (5.10d R)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 1, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: It is possible to climb up from the first bolt to a bulge (skip bolt 2), then left up a steep arete to the anchors. This direct finish 5.10b, great climbing, and may warrant an R rating.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : East Ridge (5.10)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 22, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Nice route description. I agree it would be easy to combine pitches 1 and 2, but if you are swinging leads with a stronger (or weaker) partner, it is nice to break things up so everybody gets some leading in. Not that ratings are all that important, but the first pitch crack is more like 5.10a in my opinion, and if you are shorter than 5 foot 6 inches the third pitch moves on the right side of the wall, reaching to the start of the leftward hand traverse, are certainly harder than 5.10- (it is... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Left Eliminator (V5)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 22, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Two friends used to play a little game on this problem back in the late 70s. For the lunge move they would do a two-handed throw and clap their hands once before catching the bucket. This was done without pads and spotters- further proof that youth is wasted on the young (and certainly these two youths were wasted while doing this).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 20, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Pony Express epitomizes 5.11 Eldorado climbing in many ways: steep, funky, stemming, gear tinkering, short crux, frustrating secondary crux...a real beauty, and definitely one of the best West Ridge routes of this grade. The first pitch is also one of the best 5.9 leads in the canyon, well-protected, but quite short. Many people just do this lead and rap off. The original free version of the crux corner moves left out of the dihedral onto a steep wall at a tight finger crack; you act... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Iron Horse (5.11)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 19, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent face moves and an easy toprope from the rap anchors atop P1 Pony Express. Somewhere around 5.11c climbing. 4 and 5 RPs also help if leading. The gear placements are tapered and solid, but small, so placing gear provides a satisfactory tinkering experience, and all the tiny wired nuts look cool clipped into the rope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 18, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Some historical tidbits: when first free climbed in the early 1970s pitch 1 was the standout crux of the route, due to the abundance of fixed pins filling up most of the finger jams. This was first led by Steve Wunsch and rated 5.10+. On the complete FFA of the route a short while later Jim Erickson, in blue suede RRs, sans chalk, stemmed the entire pitch using only a finger jam or two. Over the years the first pitch became easier and easier, as more pins fell out. By the late 1970s no fixed... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Whiteman (5.11c)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 8, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for adding this gem, Malcolm. Does anyone know if the bolts protecting the scratch-fest traverse have been replaced?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 5, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: The upper 5.10 crack pitch on the Southern Arete is really good crack climbing.

It is possible to avoid this and traverse right 150 feet to a large corner system, then climb a mungy couple of pitches with some OW, runouts, and a poorly-protected 5.10 section. Did this once and do not recommend it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Three Minute Hero (5.11b R)
By: Steve Levin When: Sep 18, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: This is an overlooked route worth doing, once. A bit dangerous.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Sep 17, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I should add that some climbers call this a Grade IV and not a Grade V. I'm sure none of these climbers have been forced to bivy.

There is a bit of a problem with the Grade V designation in the Black, probably more pronounced in recent years as slightly longer, slightly (or significantly) harder routes have been done. While many consider the Scenic Cruise the benchmark Grade V in the canyon, it is really one of the lesser involved routes of this grade in the Canyon, certainly now with routes ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Kit Carson / The Prow (5.8 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Sep 5, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Sean, thanks for pointing out more details about this climb and area. I last climbed in the Crestones in the late 80s while a Course Director for Outward Bound, so my memory is a bit fuzzy for details (although I still recall vividly the many excellent unclimbed lines and virgin crags). Things have probably changed since then anyhow; I'm sure the trail up Spanish Creek has improved from the vague path I remember. The Golfcourse is an Outward Bound name, and thus its usefulness is li... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Easy Jam (5.4)
By: Steve Levin When: Sep 1, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Add Handjacker (5.7+) to the Intro to Wide Cracks 101 list.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 31, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: The pin at the crux has never been an A1 placement, and was not an A1 placement for the FFA way back when. As it stands now Rincon is a "safe" lead for someone able to climb 11a without falling, someone able to reverse the moves and retreat, or someone able to aid through. It is probably not a safe lead for someone pushing things and taking repeated out-of-control falls.

Eventually fixed pins will need to be replaced. If a new pin does not work in the old placement, no other gear is available,... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Baldwin's Chimney (5.4)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 31, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Anonymous Coward: This, like all wide cracks, is a buttpoint.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Lion (5.12b X)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 30, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Climbers have died toproping, sport climbing, trad climbing, free soloing, on 4th class approaches and rappel descents, due to inexperience, simple mistakes, poor judgment, or calculated risk gone wrong. Whether one climbs well-bolted sport routes in Clear Creek, leads 5.9 trad in Eldo, free solos 5.6 in the Flatirons, climbs 5.11 in the Black, or headpoints The Lion, the imperative is to climb in control and within the limits of our abilities.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : The Radlands of Infinity (5.12d)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 30, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I meant to add that some have suggested doing this all in one pitch, but with good intermediate anchors and the potential for rope drag (not to mention blowing it up high), breaking it in 2 pitches makes a lot more sense. Great climb!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 27, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I once followed this route at dusk and, racing to get to the top before complete darkness set in, got my hand sequence messed up and used my CHIN on the hold at the lip to let go and switch hands. Probably bad beta though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Lion (5.12b X)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 27, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Sure, an onsight would have been incredibly impressive. But having climbed The Lion on toprope I can assure you a rehearsed lead of The Lion is still significant.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Lion (5.12b X)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 23, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Richard, you have a point about publicizing dangerous routes. The X rating should hopefully make climbers aware of the seriousness of the climbing.

Chad Greedy just repeated The Lion after previewing it on toprope. Matt Samet just put up a 5.13c X route in the Flatirons using a headpoint approach. Considering the bolting restrictions in Eldo and the Flatirons, I see more of this to come.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Lion (5.12b X)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 22, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I don't see this style of climbing as self-limiting at all. Yes, these routes will never become popular. What if these routes are never repeated?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Leisure Climb (5.9)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 20, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: If you find the "best" way the crux is 5.9-. Place a TCU in the crack to the right below the overlap, step left and surmount the overlap at a jug. Still, it has a runout flavor to it.

Just a thought, but I would recommend against simul-climbing the upper pitches. The climbing wanders, the rock is loose, many blocks waiting to go, etc. When simul-climbing the belayer (bottom climber) has little time to protect themselves if a rock is dislodged from above, and more often than not it is the ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Stone Monkey (5.12a)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 16, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: One may also access the crux pitch of Stone Monkey via Three Stoners. To do this just head up and left on flakes after the 5.9 corner, aiming for the spacious ledge below the crux .12a finger crack. It is also possible, and recommended, to climb the last pitch of Obviously Four Believers (same exit pitch as Three Stoners), thus avoiding the loose blocks on the Stone Monkey exit. This is the crack system R of where you end up at the top of the .12a crack. A healthy selection of small wireds (... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Better than Love (5.8 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 1, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Good alternative to the Culp-Bossier. We went directly up the "headwall" as described in Gillett, but found harder climbing than the "5.7 finger cracks" described, and the gear wasn't very good- maybe too direct. We joined the Love Route rather than trending right into the upper 5.8 pitch on Better Than Love and thus avoided any big routefinding problems. The crux "5.9" pitch on the Love Route, up the right side of the black overhang was bone dry (Aug 1) and felt like 5.7. It's good climbing... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Grand Inquisitor (5.12a R)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 26, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: There is a right kneelock right after the dyno on GI that really helps, esp. for getting that gear in. I just did the "direct" again recently, going straight up instead of L around the corner, and it felt like 12a climbing. The "trad" Purpose is actually accessed from immediately after the crux dyno at the start (i.e. just below the bulge on GI), and moved right roughly at the level of the crystal seam to the bottom of the vertical "fin".


Page 7 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>