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Guiding in RMNP


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 24 mins ago
Contact Steve Levin


Point Rank: # 390
Total Points: 1,510
Last Year: 173
Last 30 Days: 29
32 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Steve Levin been climbing?










Contributions


All 680 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 77 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 202 | Posts 210 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : I'd Rather Be In Philadelph... (5.12)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: The rock quality is marginal on parts of this route, but the climbing is excellent. The crux bulge is difficult and rather continuous, and placing gear is challenging. Desperately lunging for the anchor slings with a full pump is not uncommon. A noble community service would be for someone to replace this anchor with a modern arrangement (sans wad-o-slings), but if you drill be particularly wary of the rock quality. The original line did not stop at the present-day anchors but was purported t... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 30, 2002

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Comments: I recently watched in horror as a climber parked himself at the base of Lamb's Slide to put crampons on (stopping every minute or so to crouch behind a boulder to hide from flying rocks)- and then proceeded to solo it, dodging rocks big enough to take him out the whole way up! A definite candidate for the 2002 Darwin Awards. Best to stay away from this one until it starts freezing solid at night again, then catch it at first light.

Being anywhere near the base of Lamb's Slide, North Chimney, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Boot Lead (5.11d X)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 23, 2002

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Comments: I agree, Close to the Edge is certainly much much harder than the Boot Lead. The stiff rating may reflect a bit of hesitation on part of the FA party to assign a harder grade, although if I recall the crux contains a severe leg-press move, something that the first ascentionist is particularly gifted at. Closer to .12d in my book. The 3rd clip is hard. Some climbers use a longer QD, pre-placed, to facilitate this clip.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.11b)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 16, 2002

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Comments: Bob, real life is what happens between sessions on climbingboulder.com, or is it the other way around?

And I agree, it's nice to have Fred's input.

One person's 5.9 is another's .10c, so as long as we're all having a good time, who cares?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 16, 2002

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Comments: Bill, I was being generous by calling your well-described "lousey pinch" the bucket hold. That's what I match on before getting my feet up. If one can't reach the pinch from the undercling, it is necessary to match on a tiny crimp on the lip, then reach with the right. I'm glad I have it hideously wired.

If one can climb both Athlete's Feat and Country Club Crack in direct sun this time of year, I'd think you'd be ready to solo Astroman...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : La Plata : Ellingwood Ridge
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 10, 2002

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Comments: Excellent, a "Top Ten" climbingboulder.com route description!

We found a faint trial immmediately after the 3rd bridge, and trending with a slight uphill contour, reached the 4th stream without problem. You may want to scout at least part of this the night before if you plan on a pre-dawn start. As stated, there is a reasonably good trail on the right (west) side of the 4th stream, and it is obvious when the terrain opens up to cross the creek and start grunting up the talus to gain the ridge... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Pin Dome : Big Sky Corner (5.12c/d)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 2, 2002

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Comments: Hey Bob- when is this route in the shade? Would you recommend an edging shoe?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Archaeopteryx (5.11d X)
By: Steve Levin When: Jun 28, 2002

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Comments: Actually it was Matt Munster. And yes, this route needs more traffic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Archaeopteryx (5.11d X)
By: Steve Levin When: Jun 27, 2002

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Comments: My ruthless detective work has put a 90% positive ID on the Anonymous Coward in these posts.

AC's first name rhymes with "hat", and last name is the same as the creepy family portrayed in a 60s sitcom.

Furthermore, the part about the Naked Edge not being 3-star was included just to tweek the other participants in the thread (at least according to my source- who of course will remain anonymous).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Steve Levin When: Jun 17, 2002

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Comments: As of yesterday this route (and the rest of the NW face of Chiefshead) is bone-dry.

Spearhead is also bone dry, and the NE face on Chiefshead looked as dry as it gets (at least when viewed with binoculars from the Keyboard of the Winds). There is hardly any snow on the trail in, and that's going quick.

I have never seen so little snow in Upper Glacier Gorge this early in the season.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: Steve Levin When: Jun 14, 2002

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Comments: A nice variation to this route: from Middle Earth trend up and left a full rope length over slabs and short flake/corners to a belay at the base of a spectacular and clean left-facing corner. Climb this corner and connect with the top of the first 5.9 pitch- the corner is maybe the best 5.8 pitch on Spearhead. Apparently this doesn't get done much since some gear my climbing partner and I had to leave up there last August 5 was still there last week.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : A Midsummer's Night Dream (5.11a)
By: Steve Levin When: May 22, 2002

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Comments: Sorry Crusher, didn't intend to sandbag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Plastic Jesus (5.11b R)
By: Steve Levin When: May 2, 2002

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Comments: Talked with Roger about the way he went on the first ascent. He moved right at the blank-out spot, not left like I described in the comments. Either way its good climbing. -SL


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Wendego (5.12a R)
By: Steve Levin When: Apr 18, 2002

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Comments: Nate, you stated that replacing the pin with a bolt would "in the long run reduce the damage to the rock, while allowing people to climb this fine route."

In many instances I agree. But can you imagine the amount of chalk (i.e. "damage to the rock") on the first part of Wendego if a bolt replaced that first pin, "allowing people to climb this fine route"?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Route That Dan Missed (5.10 X)
By: Steve Levin When: Apr 17, 2002

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Comments: Mark, with all due repsect, please do not retro-bolt this line. It is one of the few climbs of it's grade in Boulder Canyon with good climbing and a spicy runout. There are plenty of bolted 5.10s to do elsewhere in the canyon. Thank you.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Gates of Eden (5.10a)
By: Steve Levin When: Apr 5, 2002

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Comments: A more realistic training day for the NE Buttress on Higher Cathedral Rock in the Valley would be to do these 5 routes at least twice, and then hike Green Mountain.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Squeeze Box (5.9)
By: Steve Levin When: Mar 11, 2002

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Comments: I thought this was one of the worst, most insignificant desert towers I have ever done, anywhere. Prepare to do sideways offwidth through packrat spooge on loose, soft rock. Maybe I am old and sensitive, but one star seems pretty generous. Still, if you make it a point of ticking towers, I guess you gotta do it. By the way, the tower is called The Defecating Monk. -SL


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon
By: Steve Levin When: Feb 11, 2002

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Comments: Rincon is one of the premier crags in Colorado and should not be missed!



Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Power Bulge (5.12c)
By: Steve Levin When: Jan 30, 2002

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Comments: Power Bulge is an excellent, technical, powerful route. The wall gets good sun, making this a good winter location to climb (if the trails getting there are not too snowed under). After a series of strenuous but not-too-difficult moves, the climber is faced with a thin crux at the bulge involving something of a reach on fairly small holds. I found the body position for setting up this move crucial to success, and the footwork equally as important as was finger strength. The final wall is sust... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Allosaur (5.9 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Jan 28, 2002

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Comments: A variation to this route goes up the wall left of pitch 2. It is runout 5.8.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Silver Raven (5.11d)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 29, 2001

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Comments: There are 2 different rap anchors on the broken ledge atop these routes- both are slings around trees. The right-most is directly above Paris Girls, and requires 2 ropes to get down. The other anchor is a bit left from here, and if you rap more into the gully left (careful of loose rock) it is possible to get off with a single 60m rope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Plastic Jesus (5.11b R)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 25, 2001

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Comments: Mike Schlauch reminded me of some crux beta you may wish to know...from the last gear (a green Alien) at the end of the flake it is unclear which way to go, and some of us are drawn up and right into no-mans land. Better to move left with good feet but poor hand holds, then step back right a bit higher.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 16, 2001

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Comments: It is possible to test your rope management skills by leading Psychosis in one pitch with a 70m rope (or 60m rope with the 2nd simul-climbing a little). I tried this once, and did not exactly pass the test. It was, however, rather entertaining for my belayer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 14, 2001

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Comments: I thought Darrin Born replaced the original bolts on this route with modern hardware in 2000.

Although the bolts are widely spaced, I have to disagree with (the deleted comment above) that they are placed in poor locations, or do not adequately protect the cruxes. To my knowledge this gets led frequently and no one has ever been hurt on it.

I agree that you had better be feeling good leading this or else...but isn't that the whole point? I would hate to see anything change on this route ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 4, 2001

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Comments: It is possible to sneak left around the corner from the base of the 4th pitch and avoid the upper 2 pitches. Just follow T2 to the top (5.8s from this point).


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