Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community

Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact slevin

Point Rank: # 686
Total Points: 1,044
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 3
27 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has slevin been climbing?


All 462 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 81 | Posts 182 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
Page 4 of 4.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4

Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Plastic Jesus (5.11b R)
By: slevin When: May 2, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Talked with Roger about the way he went on the first ascent. He moved right at the blank-out spot, not left like I described in the comments. Either way its good climbing. -SL

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Squeeze Box (5.9)
By: slevin When: Mar 11, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was one of the worst, most insignificant desert towers I have ever done, anywhere. Prepare to do sideways offwidth through packrat spooge on loose, soft rock. Maybe I am old and sensitive, but one star seems pretty generous. Still, if you make it a point of ticking towers, I guess you gotta do it. By the way, the tower is called The Defecating Monk. -SL

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: slevin When: Oct 18, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Some historical tidbits: when first free climbed in the early 1970s pitch 1 was the standout crux of the route, due to the abundance of fixed pins filling up most of the finger jams. This was first led by Steve Wunsch and rated 5.10+. On the complete FFA of the route a short while later Jim Erickson, in blue suede RRs, sans chalk, stemmed the entire pitch using only a finger jam or two. Over the years the first pitch became easier and easier, as more pins fell out. By the late 1970s no fixed... more >>

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Easy Jam (5.4)
By: slevin When: Sep 1, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Add Handjacker (5.7+) to the Intro to Wide Cracks 101 list.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: slevin When: Aug 31, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: The pin at the crux has never been an A1 placement, and was not an A1 placement for the FFA way back when. As it stands now Rincon is a "safe" lead for someone able to climb 11a without falling, someone able to reverse the moves and retreat, or someone able to aid through. It is probably not a safe lead for someone pushing things and taking repeated out-of-control falls.

Eventually fixed pins will need to be replaced. If a new pin does not work in the old placement, no other gear is available,... more >>

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Stone Monkey (5.12a)
By: slevin When: Aug 16, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: One may also access the crux pitch of Stone Monkey via Three Stoners. To do this just head up and left on flakes after the 5.9 corner, aiming for the spacious ledge below the crux .12a finger crack. It is also possible, and recommended, to climb the last pitch of Obviously Four Believers (same exit pitch as Three Stoners), thus avoiding the loose blocks on the Stone Monkey exit. This is the crack system R of where you end up at the top of the .12a crack. A healthy selection of small wireds (... more >>

Page 4 of 4.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!