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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Your Basic Lieback (5.6)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The large block mentioned above by Scott Edlin has been removed.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Clear the Deck (5.11a X)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Boulos.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Dihedral Two (5.9)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA is unknown.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Dihedral One (5.11b V2 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FA of this route is unknown; it's been listed in guidebooks since at least the early 1970s.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Mineral Maze (5.11d)
By: Steve Levin When: May 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second bolt has been replaced.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Water Line (5.11a)
By: Steve Levin When: May 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt has been recently replaced.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Earnest Stemmingway (5.9)
By: Steve Levin When: May 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt has been replaced. The original stud was a 1" split shaft quarter incher that came out with hardly any effort.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: Steve Levin When: Apr 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rap route in question has been a safe, efficient, and popular ESTABLISHED rap route for years now. It is quick, the rope toss and pull are easy, the stations manageable, no loose rock, etc. I see no reason at all to change the location of the upper anchor. If indeed the tree is no good, place a bolted anchor in the immediate vicinity of the tree. Very simple. Climbers can deal with scrambling to this point with or without the tree (they have for years), and they can also deal with tree ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Court Jester (5.11a PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the route described here, and the photos shown, are for Court Jester (rated 5.10c S in the current guide, but actually closer to .11a). Court Jester climbs directly above the "101" in the page 219 photo in the Falcon guide.
There are four lines between Sooberb and Sidewall:
(1) The first crack immediately left of Sooberb is broken, vague and somewhat unappealing, and leads into an alcove, then goes up to the slung tree on Sooberb. This is not documented in the Falcon guide, but is ca... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Court Jester (5.11a PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aren't these photos for Court Jester? The Human Factor takes on the red, larger right-facing corner just left of where Ivan is climbing...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bernard- correct.
I guess the footage of Derek was from Rosy...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob D: you get a "B"; first answer is incorrect (read the question more carefully), all others are correct.
Chris: good point, but I think the footage of Derek was from this climb. Can anybody out there verify?
Greg: memory not so good. Seneca 1976?
So anybody want to name the climb, and where the RB initials are located on the climb??
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those 2 or 3 trivia buffs still wondering about the name of the climb with the "RB" initials, here are some hints to lead the way...
"RB" followed one of the 60s Eldo pioneers up this route on the declared FFA. Name the lead climber.
Many consider the route was NOT climbed completely free on this ascent. Why?
One of the heros of a prominent East Coast climbing area almost refused to follow the overhanging direct finish on the FFA of this pitch. Name this East Coast climbing legend.
Th... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Bit by Bit (5.11c/d)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really good route. I climbed the face directly following the bolts, rather than moving right to the arete as described above. Kudos to Dougald and Mark for putting this route up- it must have been quite an effort rigging the ropes from above.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: Steve Levin When: May 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Temperatures in late May and early June can be just fine in the Black. As an added benefit, the poison ivy is really starting to leaf out, and the ticks are in full bloom.
If it is really stinking hot, many routes don't go into the sun until late morning / early afternoon (for example Checkerboard Wall, Comic Relief area, Great White Wall area, etc.), so you can hop on these very early in the morning, and by the time the sun hits you will be too committed to do anything about it other than c... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : The Radlands of Infinity (5.12d)
By: Steve Levin When: Jan 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apologies to Richard W. for leading him astray with my comments on shoe type, route quality, etc. for this route, but I still maintain the points I made above.
Climbs feel different for different climbers, we each have our strengths amd weaknesses- and preferences. I still feel an edging shoe works best (for me) on this type of climb- I am more of a tap-tap edging climber than a smear-er (huh?), and still find myself wearing Syncros on high-angle granite. Perhaps a hybrid edge-smear shoe li... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Saturnalia (5.11b PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 22, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first ascent was previewed and then led with long slings hanging from gear, with clip-ins roughly where the 2 bolts are now placed. Rumor has the pitch was led by Charlie Fowler in the '80s.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going straight up the wide crack (with the bolt) after the Dagger pitch is good 5.10, and protects fine with just a single 4 Camalot (slide it with you). It will be exciting, but you will be OK. Unless of course you would rather sew it up. P.S. Watch getting the rope stuck at the top of the Dagger. -SL
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brad, you are a strong lad to carry all that wide gear up there. The adventurous may consider less wide gear, since there is a crack inside the OW that accepts smaller cams. -SL
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Father Figure (5.11b)
By: Steve Levin When: Jun 17, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Add up how long these dudes have been climbing, and the total will be well over 100 years. That has got to break some kind of record.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
By: Steve Levin When: May 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are also good arguments for bivying up at Spearhead:
1. Incredible light show on the Keyboard of the Winds each evening as the alpenglow takes over.
2. Sipping coffee from your sleeping bag in the morning as you watch the day-trippers wind their way through the willows far below.
3. Watching from 4 pitches up as a marmot tries to reach your hanging food bag- and stumbles up-side-down into the talus.
4. Excellent bouldering sessions while the soup is cooking.
5. A chance to use all that fa... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Steve Levin When: May 8, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: A tidbit of trivia about the FFA of pitch one:
Jim Erickson: "We were all trying the first pitch, but nobody was willing to do the unprotected 5.10 move. Along came Ed (Webster) hiking up the roof routes trail. He was young, impressionable, and out to make a name for himself. So he tied in and we sent him up there. Thankfully, he got the rope up there for us."
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Serpent (5.10b R)
By: Steve Levin When: Apr 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony- I agree there is a great deal of non-descript terrain in the upper reaches between Upper Ruper and T2. Having climbed several "exit" pitches for climbs in this vicinity, I consider most of the rock up there not really worth climbing, let alone demarcating into named "routes" or "variations". I'm sure people have wandered all over up there in past years.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Shasta (5.10- R)
By: Steve Levin When: Apr 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb is named after my wife's golden retriever, Shasta, who as a puppy lived with an older golden retriever named Ruper, named such because his owner was benighted on Upper Ruper shortly before he got his dog. I thought it fitting that Shasta and Ruper should be side-by-side in Eldorado, a place they both enjoyed very much.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Grand View Spire : Southwest Defile Route (5.8 C2)
By: Steve Levin When: Feb 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Troy- of course you left the old register on top, right?
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