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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact slevin

Point Rank: # 619
Total Points: 1,048
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 3
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has slevin been climbing?


All 462 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 85 | Posts 178 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Squeeze Box (5.9)
By: slevin When: Mar 11, 2002

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Comments: I thought this was one of the worst, most insignificant desert towers I have ever done, anywhere. Prepare to do sideways offwidth through packrat spooge on loose, soft rock. Maybe I am old and sensitive, but one star seems pretty generous. Still, if you make it a point of ticking towers, I guess you gotta do it. By the way, the tower is called The Defecating Monk. -SL

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: slevin When: Nov 16, 2001

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Comments: It is possible to test your rope management skills by leading Psychosis in one pitch with a 70m rope (or 60m rope with the 2nd simul-climbing a little). I tried this once, and did not exactly pass the test. It was, however, rather entertaining for my belayer.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: slevin When: Nov 14, 2001

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Comments: I thought Darrin Born replaced the original bolts on this route with modern hardware in 2000.

Although the bolts are widely spaced, I have to disagree with (the deleted comment above) that they are placed in poor locations, or do not adequately protect the cruxes. To my knowledge this gets led frequently and no one has ever been hurt on it.

I agree that you had better be feeling good leading this or else...but isn't that the whole point? I would hate to see anything change on this route ... more >>

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Left Eliminator (V5)
By: slevin When: Oct 22, 2001

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Comments: Two friends used to play a little game on this problem back in the late 70s. For the lunge move they would do a two-handed throw and clap their hands once before catching the bucket. This was done without pads and spotters- further proof that youth is wasted on the young (and certainly these two youths were wasted while doing this).

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: slevin When: Oct 20, 2001

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Comments: Pony Express epitomizes 5.11 Eldorado climbing in many ways: steep, funky, stemming, gear tinkering, short crux, frustrating secondary crux...a real beauty, and definitely one of the best West Ridge routes of this grade. The first pitch is also one of the best 5.9 leads in the canyon, well-protected, but quite short. Many people just do this lead and rap off. The original free version of the crux corner moves left out of the dihedral onto a steep wall at a tight finger crack; you act... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: slevin When: Oct 18, 2001

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Comments: Some historical tidbits: when first free climbed in the early 1970s pitch 1 was the standout crux of the route, due to the abundance of fixed pins filling up most of the finger jams. This was first led by Steve Wunsch and rated 5.10+. On the complete FFA of the route a short while later Jim Erickson, in blue suede RRs, sans chalk, stemmed the entire pitch using only a finger jam or two. Over the years the first pitch became easier and easier, as more pins fell out. By the late 1970s no fixed... more >>

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Easy Jam (5.4)
By: slevin When: Sep 1, 2001

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Comments: Add Handjacker (5.7+) to the Intro to Wide Cracks 101 list.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: slevin When: Aug 31, 2001

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Comments: The pin at the crux has never been an A1 placement, and was not an A1 placement for the FFA way back when. As it stands now Rincon is a "safe" lead for someone able to climb 11a without falling, someone able to reverse the moves and retreat, or someone able to aid through. It is probably not a safe lead for someone pushing things and taking repeated out-of-control falls.

Eventually fixed pins will need to be replaced. If a new pin does not work in the old placement, no other gear is available,... more >>

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Stone Monkey (5.12a)
By: slevin When: Aug 16, 2001

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Comments: One may also access the crux pitch of Stone Monkey via Three Stoners. To do this just head up and left on flakes after the 5.9 corner, aiming for the spacious ledge below the crux .12a finger crack. It is also possible, and recommended, to climb the last pitch of Obviously Four Believers (same exit pitch as Three Stoners), thus avoiding the loose blocks on the Stone Monkey exit. This is the crack system R of where you end up at the top of the .12a crack. A healthy selection of small wireds (... more >>

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: slevin When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Here is another way to reach the worthy summit of Cynical Pinnacle: On pitch three move left to a short, 5.10- finger crack, then hand traverse left to join upper Wunsch's near the end of the dihedral. Watch rope drag, and save a hand-sized piece for the belay. Finish on the bolt ladder- at A0 this finish is easier than "Class Act", the summit pitch from Center Route's false summit. You can rap off the top into the gully behind the formation (in winter its choked with snow, in summer, poison ivy... more >>

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