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Guiding in RMNP


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 405
Total Points: 1,449
Last Year: 123
Last 30 Days: 20
32 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Steve Levin been climbing?










Contributions


All 667 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 65 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 203 | Posts 208 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Air Mail (5.10a PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Dec 17, 2006

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Comments: The webbing on the flake has been removed. It's easy to climb right and finish on Zip Code, then rap Pony Express.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Whatever (5.9 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Dec 17, 2006

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Comments: There are two routes in this area from the 1980s, unreported in the current guide, and never well-described to begin with:

Office Hours 5.9
First ascent in 1982 by Carl Harrison and Sandy East.

SNFS 5.9
First ascent in 1982 by Carl Harrison and Sandy East.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Shot and Chaser (5.11b)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 28, 2006

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Comments: This sounds like the original line taken by Reveley and John Ruger in 1974.

Eldorado- A Climber's Route Guide (Ament) 1975: "A severely overhanging, strenuous pitch leads up a crack and right up the southern extension of a prominent, inset "Y", to the top."

Eldorado- A Rock Climber's Guide (Ament) 1980: "...a prominent "Y" formed by a crack leading through a slot to two dihedrals...taking the more difficult right (southern) extension of the Y."

Rocky Heights (Erickson) 1980: "...a severely o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mickey Mouse Nailup (5.9+ R)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 20, 2006

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Comments: A month or so ago I removed the loose block down low, so no need for heads up there.

Variation: Climb to the chimney in the big hanging flake, but climb right around the flake to a short, dirty right-facing corner (crux), then up past some blocks and a crack (Darin Lang Mar 21, 2002 variation meets here). Exit left on a slab to the rappel chains. ("Mouse Trap" 5.10a PG 0-stars, FRA David Light, Steve Levin Oct 2006). The quantity of jettisoned loose rock on our ascent suggests no climber had e... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Track (5.8)
By: Steve Levin When: Sep 15, 2006

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Comments: I should add that Bob D' did all the work. Since it's hard to sandbag him on a climb, I had to do it this way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 1, 2006

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Comments: This is a photograph of Finkle Finger of Eight, not Tracer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Track (5.8)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 31, 2006

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Comments: The old bolt has been replaced with stainless 3/8".

The old bolt on "No Visible Means of Support" (not in data base) was also replaced.

The old bolt on "Jackson Browne" (not in data base) was also replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Your Basic Lieback (5.6)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 27, 2006

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Comments: The large block mentioned above by Scott Edlin has been removed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Clear the Deck (5.11a X)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 17, 2006

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Comments: Boulos.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Dihedral Two (5.9)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 9, 2006

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Comments: FA is unknown.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Dihedral One (5.11b V2 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 9, 2006

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Comments: The FA of this route is unknown; it's been listed in guidebooks since at least the early 1970s.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Mineral Maze (5.11d)
By: Steve Levin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The second bolt has been replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Water Line (5.11a)
By: Steve Levin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The bolt has been recently replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Earnest Stemmingway (5.9)
By: Steve Levin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The bolt has been replaced. The original stud was a 1" split shaft quarter incher that came out with hardly any effort.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: Steve Levin When: Apr 28, 2006

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Comments: The rap route in question has been a safe, efficient, and popular ESTABLISHED rap route for years now. It is quick, the rope toss and pull are easy, the stations manageable, no loose rock, etc. I see no reason at all to change the location of the upper anchor. If indeed the tree is no good, place a bolted anchor in the immediate vicinity of the tree. Very simple. Climbers can deal with scrambling to this point with or without the tree (they have for years), and they can also deal with tree ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Court Jester (5.11a PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Mar 10, 2006

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Comments: I think the route described here, and the photos shown, are for Court Jester (rated 5.10c S in the current guide, but actually closer to .11a). Court Jester climbs directly above the "101" in the page 219 photo in the Falcon guide.

There are four lines between Sooberb and Sidewall:
(1) The first crack immediately left of Sooberb is broken, vague and somewhat unappealing, and leads into an alcove, then goes up to the slung tree on Sooberb. This is not documented in the Falcon guide, but is ca... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Court Jester (5.11a PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Mar 10, 2006

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Comments: Aren't these photos for Court Jester? The Human Factor takes on the red, larger right-facing corner just left of where Ivan is climbing...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 22, 2004

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Comments: Bernard- correct.

I guess the footage of Derek was from Rosy...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 16, 2004

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Comments: Bob D: you get a "B"; first answer is incorrect (read the question more carefully), all others are correct.

Chris: good point, but I think the footage of Derek was from this climb. Can anybody out there verify?

Greg: memory not so good. Seneca 1976?

So anybody want to name the climb, and where the RB initials are located on the climb??


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 15, 2004

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Comments: For those 2 or 3 trivia buffs still wondering about the name of the climb with the "RB" initials, here are some hints to lead the way...

"RB" followed one of the 60s Eldo pioneers up this route on the declared FFA. Name the lead climber.

Many consider the route was NOT climbed completely free on this ascent. Why?

One of the heros of a prominent East Coast climbing area almost refused to follow the overhanging direct finish on the FFA of this pitch. Name this East Coast climbing legend.

Th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Bit by Bit (5.11c/d)
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 1, 2004

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Comments: This is a really good route. I climbed the face directly following the bolts, rather than moving right to the arete as described above. Kudos to Dougald and Mark for putting this route up- it must have been quite an effort rigging the ropes from above.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: Steve Levin When: May 11, 2004

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Comments: Temperatures in late May and early June can be just fine in the Black. As an added benefit, the poison ivy is really starting to leaf out, and the ticks are in full bloom.

If it is really stinking hot, many routes don't go into the sun until late morning / early afternoon (for example Checkerboard Wall, Comic Relief area, Great White Wall area, etc.), so you can hop on these very early in the morning, and by the time the sun hits you will be too committed to do anything about it other than c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : The Radlands of Infinity (5.12d)
By: Steve Levin When: Jan 26, 2004

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Comments: Apologies to Richard W. for leading him astray with my comments on shoe type, route quality, etc. for this route, but I still maintain the points I made above.

Climbs feel different for different climbers, we each have our strengths amd weaknesses- and preferences. I still feel an edging shoe works best (for me) on this type of climb- I am more of a tap-tap edging climber than a smear-er (huh?), and still find myself wearing Syncros on high-angle granite. Perhaps a hybrid edge-smear shoe li... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Saturnalia (5.11b PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 22, 2003

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Comments: The first ascent was previewed and then led with long slings hanging from gear, with clip-ins roughly where the 2 bolts are now placed. Rumor has the pitch was led by Charlie Fowler in the '80s.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: Going straight up the wide crack (with the bolt) after the Dagger pitch is good 5.10, and protects fine with just a single 4 Camalot (slide it with you). It will be exciting, but you will be OK. Unless of course you would rather sew it up. P.S. Watch getting the rope stuck at the top of the Dagger. -SL


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