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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 640
Total Points: 1,048
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 3
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slevin been climbing?










Contributions


All 448 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 79 | Posts 170 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Daedalus (5.5)
By: slevin When: Feb 19, 2007

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Comments: Per the 1961 Dornan guide (Eldorado's first guide):
"The Dirty Deed, Grade 5, easy.
This route starts in the chimney 150 ft. north of the Yellow Spur. Climb up the crack on the right one lead to a large ledge. Traverse right until it is possible to diagonal up a face south of a gully. The final section of this face is easiest by the south ridge. The route finishes up the Yellow Spur summit."

High Over Boulder, First Edition 1967:
"The Dirty Deed. I, 5.5. First ascent in 1959 by Charles Alexande... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: slevin When: Jan 26, 2007

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Comments: FA Chris Reveley and John Ruger 1974. They exited the Y-slot right; see "Shot and Chaser".


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Working Class Hero (5.7)
By: slevin When: Jan 12, 2007

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Comments: This is actually a 3-pitch climb, finishing on a higher tier of rock near Highway 61.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Fine Line (5.9)
By: slevin When: Jan 12, 2007

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Comments: Zap Snack climbs Fine Line to the small ledge (FA belayed here), then moves right to climb the steep upper dihedral of Terminal Velocity. It predates both of those routes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: slevin When: Jan 8, 2007

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Comments: The old bolt has been replaced. Thanks to Greg Hand for coming out to Eldo on such a windy day to...lend a hand.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : ... : Photo
By: slevin When: Dec 27, 2006

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Comments: Bret Ruckman.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Lightning Bolt Crack (5.8+)
By: slevin When: Dec 26, 2006

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Comments: The variation George Bell describes, a handcrack exit out the alcove above the Mail Ridge V-slot, was first done in 1980 by Jim Erickson, who rated it 5.10a and didn't name it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Air Mail (5.10a PG13)
By: slevin When: Dec 17, 2006

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Comments: The webbing on the flake has been removed. It's easy to climb right and finish on Zip Code, then rap Pony Express.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Whatever (5.9 R)
By: slevin When: Dec 17, 2006

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Comments: There are two routes in this area from the 1980s, unreported in the current guide, and never well-described to begin with:

Office Hours 5.9
First ascent in 1982 by Carl Harrison and Sandy East.

SNFS 5.9
First ascent in 1982 by Carl Harrison and Sandy East.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Shot and Chaser (5.11b)
By: slevin When: Nov 28, 2006

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Comments: This sounds like the original line taken by Reveley and John Ruger in 1974.

Eldorado- A Climber's Route Guide (Ament) 1975: "A severely overhanging, strenuous pitch leads up a crack and right up the southern extension of a prominent, inset "Y", to the top."

Eldorado- A Rock Climber's Guide (Ament) 1980: "...a prominent "Y" formed by a crack leading through a slot to two dihedrals...taking the more difficult right (southern) extension of the Y."

Rocky Heights (Erickson) 1980: "...a severely o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mickey Mouse Nailup (5.9+ R)
By: slevin When: Oct 20, 2006

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Comments: A month or so ago I removed the loose block down low, so no need for heads up there.

Variation: Climb to the chimney in the big hanging flake, but climb right around the flake to a short, dirty right-facing corner (crux), then up past some blocks and a crack (Darin Lang Mar 21, 2002 variation meets here). Exit left on a slab to the rappel chains. ("Mouse Trap" 5.10a PG 0-stars, FRA David Light, Steve Levin Oct 2006). The quantity of jettisoned loose rock on our ascent suggests no climber had e... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: slevin When: Aug 1, 2006

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Comments: This is a photograph of Finkle Finger of Eight, not Tracer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Your Basic Lieback (5.6)
By: slevin When: Jul 27, 2006

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Comments: The large block mentioned above by Scott Edlin has been removed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Clear the Deck (5.11a X)
By: slevin When: Jul 17, 2006

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Comments: Boulos.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Dihedral Two (5.9)
By: slevin When: Jul 9, 2006

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Comments: FA is unknown.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Dihedral One (5.11b V2 R)
By: slevin When: Jul 9, 2006

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Comments: The FA of this route is unknown; it's been listed in guidebooks since at least the early 1970s.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Mineral Maze (5.11d)
By: slevin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The second bolt has been replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Water Line (5.11a)
By: slevin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The bolt has been recently replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Earnest Stemmingway (5.9)
By: slevin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The bolt has been replaced. The original stud was a 1" split shaft quarter incher that came out with hardly any effort.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Court Jester (5.11a PG13)
By: slevin When: Mar 10, 2006

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Comments: I think the route described here, and the photos shown, are for Court Jester (rated 5.10c S in the current guide, but actually closer to .11a). Court Jester climbs directly above the "101" in the page 219 photo in the Falcon guide.

There are four lines between Sooberb and Sidewall:
(1) The first crack immediately left of Sooberb is broken, vague and somewhat unappealing, and leads into an alcove, then goes up to the slung tree on Sooberb. This is not documented in the Falcon guide, but is ca... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Court Jester (5.11a PG13)
By: slevin When: Mar 10, 2006

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Comments: Aren't these photos for Court Jester? The Human Factor takes on the red, larger right-facing corner just left of where Ivan is climbing...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Bit by Bit (5.11c/d)
By: slevin When: Nov 1, 2004

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Comments: This is a really good route. I climbed the face directly following the bolts, rather than moving right to the arete as described above. Kudos to Dougald and Mark for putting this route up- it must have been quite an effort rigging the ropes from above.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: slevin When: May 11, 2004

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Comments: Temperatures in late May and early June can be just fine in the Black. As an added benefit, the poison ivy is really starting to leaf out, and the ticks are in full bloom.

If it is really stinking hot, many routes don't go into the sun until late morning / early afternoon (for example Checkerboard Wall, Comic Relief area, Great White Wall area, etc.), so you can hop on these very early in the morning, and by the time the sun hits you will be too committed to do anything about it other than c... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: slevin When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: Going straight up the wide crack (with the bolt) after the Dagger pitch is good 5.10, and protects fine with just a single 4 Camalot (slide it with you). It will be exciting, but you will be OK. Unless of course you would rather sew it up. P.S. Watch getting the rope stuck at the top of the Dagger. -SL


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: slevin When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: Brad, you are a strong lad to carry all that wide gear up there. The adventurous may consider less wide gear, since there is a crack inside the OW that accepts smaller cams. -SL


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