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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jul 15, 2015
Contact slevin

Point Rank: # 647
Total Points: 1,048
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 3
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 448 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 79 | Posts 170 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Eldorado Canyon SP - FHRC n...
By: slevin When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: The meeting minutes from the 2-10-2014 meeting, including results from new applications, can be found here:
aceeldo.org/about/view_ace_min...
In a nutshell:
1. The route off the Upper Ramp, right of The Italian Arete was approved (note the application was amended to add 2 bolts).
2. The Exhibit A roof route was approved.
3. The Doub-Griffith Extension was approved.
4. Vote on the "Upper Meadow" (sic) route between Vertigo and To RP Or Not To Be was postponed. The Board needed mor... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Veil : Zabrina (5.10c)
By: slevin When: Apr 5, 2008

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Comments: The bolt has been replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Working Class Hero (5.7)
By: slevin When: Dec 9, 2007

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Comments: This is pitch three of "Working Class Hero", FA Carl Harrison, Jim Stuberg, Chip Ruckgaber*, Sandy East, 1980. [Ref: Boulder New Climbs '81, p27, Alec Sharp] (*Credited in the Falcon guide, but not in Sharp.) Eds. this was submitted on a route which now is P3 of Working Class Hero.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: slevin When: Oct 26, 2007

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Comments: This is "Direct Start To Your Basic Lieback". The overhang left of center is the start of "Just Another Girl's Climb".


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Final Eviction (aka Fre... (5.13)
By: slevin When: Oct 26, 2007

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Comments: "Freeline" is the complete first pitch of the original aid route done here by Ron Olevsky in the early 1970s (A3 crux right off the ground back then). It has been reported as both the "Olevsky Route" and "Aid Line".

The first reported free ascent of pitch one was by Justen Sjong in early 2000 (pitch two was freed by Chris Reveley in the 1970s). The crux is still the first 15 feet, then a long 5.12 section to the bolt, then right into the crux of what is now Evictor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Clean Freak (5.12a PG13)
By: slevin When: Oct 25, 2007

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Comments: Dogpatch (5.8 R) is (was) just a short by-pass, connecting the first pitch of Crow's Landing to Auntie Perspirant, but avoiding the 5.10 R Auntie Perspirant crux. It is the arete in the P1 description. Never reported and very obscure, it's only redeeming feature was avoidance of harder shit-climbing. I would also rate the first pitch as described 5.10-.

Good job on the corner, been looking at that a long time!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Phee-nix (5.12b R)
By: slevin When: Oct 24, 2007

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Comments: From talking with a few people who have done this, Phee Nix does not step in from Flakey Floont on the right, but begins with the boulder problem start described above, i.e. you climb directly into the corner from below (good hold for right, reach left to OK hold, reach right high to sloper, shallow pocket, better pocket, bucket). I still need to ask Mike Brooks (FA) about it, but I know David Light led the bouldery start in the late 1980s after he worked it on TR a bit. On toprope this felt lik... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: slevin When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: The FHRC process for approving/rejecting bolted new route proposals includes a period for input from the climbing community. Please take the time to personally review new route and/or anchor proposals during this period, and make your opinions known.

The FHRC process is only made better with more climber input. It's extra work for you, but not nearly as much work as the climber who susses a new line, puts forth a proposal, goes through the voting, gets a permit from Steve M., installs the li... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Superspar (5.11b)
By: slevin When: Sep 18, 2007

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Comments: Chris- the 5.9+ corner is the top of the Poached Eggs pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Apple Strudel (5.12a)
By: slevin When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: According to High Over Boulder, 1970: "Via a very thin flake, reach a bolt 15-20 feet up, and continue nailing upward. etc."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: slevin When: Aug 26, 2007

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Comments: Ament's 1975 Eldorado guide documents this as a variation to The Yellow Spur, first climbed by Bob Culp in the 1960s. According to Jim Erickson, this was (and one assumes, still is) one of Culp's favorite climbs in the canyon; indeed it was the first route Jim ever climbed with Culp, sometime around 1968 (personal communication).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Upstairs (5.8)
By: slevin When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: This is Upstairs, FA Larry Dalke and Bill Chase, 1965.

According to Jim Erickson in Rocky Heights 1980:
"Upstairs 5.6. This wanders up the right margin of the upper wall (i.e. Upper Peanuts), into a prominent dihedral."

It is the most-obvious and cleanest line on the entire formation, and considering the compressed ratings of the day, it is easy to conclude this is Dalke's route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: slevin When: Jul 20, 2007

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Comments: Just wanted to say this is one of the best sport routes on the Front Range and thanks to Alan for his time, effort and $$$ establishing it for us to enjoy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Continental Crag : Plate Tectonics (5.9)
By: slevin When: Jul 17, 2007

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Comments: Removed the flake today. Another Top Ten Trundle.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Track (5.8)
By: slevin When: Jul 15, 2007

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Comments: The interesting line Leo mentions has been led. See "Do or Do Not".


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: slevin When: Jul 11, 2007

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Comments: We removed the tree this morning. Thanks to Dan Hickstein for joining me, and the Eldo trail crew for monitoring the trails..and shooting a short video clip. I'll try to post the video soon. Top Ten trundle, for sure!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : PA's Variation (5.8 PG13)
By: slevin When: Jun 12, 2007

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Comments: The old pop-top hanger and hex-head screw-in stud (!) has been replaced with a stainless Fixe bolt and hanger.

This is still an R-rated pitch with poor pro at the crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Whittle Wall, The (5.7 R)
By: slevin When: Jun 12, 2007

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Comments: The old spinner on the neighboring "Sticky Feet" (not in database) has been replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: slevin When: May 15, 2007

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Comments: The correct name for this route is "West Side", a name used since the 1967 High Over Boulder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Bloke On The Side (5.9+ R)
By: slevin When: May 11, 2007

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Comments: Pitch two is the crux. It is to the right of the 5.8 pitch described above. Climb an overhanging shallow corner past a downward-pointed flake, up a broken R-facing corner, then left at a ledge. This pitch protects okay and is worth doing.

The 5.8 2nd pitch is a variation finish to Chick on the Side, also worth doing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pseudo Sidetrack (5.4 R)
By: slevin When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: The old quarter incher at the second belay has been replaced.

I don't recommend combining the lower 3 pitches as described by Leo above. Belay after a short lead at the first bolt you come to (a cam backs this up)- this will reduce the chance of getting the rope caught in the flakes one traverses left around near the start of pitch 1. Then belay at the end of the long diagonal section at the newly replaced bolt and a fixed ring angle- to minimize rope stretch in the event of a fall and to allo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Walk the Talk (5.9+ R)
By: slevin When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: The hangerless quarter inch stud has been replaced...hanger included.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Kinnder Rooten (5.9- X)
By: slevin When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: The correct spelling is "Kinnder Rooten", FA Layton Kor and Pat Ament 1963.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : The Fever (5.9 R)
By: slevin When: Feb 24, 2007

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Comments: Tony, you'll have to show me on a photo. The photos of Mark Speiker you posted under Ignominity look like the regular third pitch.

The Rossiter-Ruwitch variation (?) described in the Falcon guide is not the line right of P3 Ignominity (i.e. the stray bolt leading to a tight right-facing corner). Dan Hare placed that bolt, and the climbing is certainly much harder than 5.10b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : The Fever (5.9 R)
By: slevin When: Feb 24, 2007

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Comments: The climb described above sounds like pitch three of Ignominity.


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