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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact slevin

Point Rank: # 647
Total Points: 1,048
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 3
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slevin been climbing?










Contributions


All 448 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 79 | Posts 170 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Serpent (5.10b R)
By: slevin When: Apr 29, 2003

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Comments: Tony- I agree there is a great deal of non-descript terrain in the upper reaches between Upper Ruper and T2. Having climbed several "exit" pitches for climbs in this vicinity, I consider most of the rock up there not really worth climbing, let alone demarcating into named "routes" or "variations". I'm sure people have wandered all over up there in past years.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Shasta (5.10- R)
By: slevin When: Apr 29, 2003

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Comments: The climb is named after my wife's golden retriever, Shasta, who as a puppy lived with an older golden retriever named Ruper, named such because his owner was benighted on Upper Ruper shortly before he got his dog. I thought it fitting that Shasta and Ruper should be side-by-side in Eldorado, a place they both enjoyed very much.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Grand View Spire : Southwest Defile Route (5.8 C2)
By: slevin When: Feb 12, 2003

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Comments: Troy- of course you left the old register on top, right?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Red House (5.11b R)
By: slevin When: Jan 15, 2003

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Comments: A classic Hendrix tune (like its neighbor Purple Haze), the name reflects the cluelessness of the new owners of the residence west of the Visitor Center, who tastefully painted their house fire-engine red.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Counterstroke (5.11+ R)
By: slevin When: Jan 9, 2003

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Comments: Rich- In this case all gear was placed on the lead (both Andy and I led it).

A "headpoint" lead is the culmination of toprope rehearsal, cleaning (if necessary), and gear inspection, using clean gear only (in my definition). Matt Samet does a good job presenting headpointing in the Current Features section of this site under Hound Dog Flaming- if you can stomach the thread discussion; and both Matt and Steve Dieckhoff raise some interesting justifications for using the headpoint appr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: slevin When: Dec 17, 2002

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Comments: The Right Side of the Folly has been shut down from rock fall for years.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Counterstroke (5.11+ R)
By: slevin When: Dec 9, 2002

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Comments: The flex flake under the roof is now gone.

After a repeat of this climb yesterday (12-8-02) I think the .12a grade may be soft.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Counterstroke (5.11+ R)
By: slevin When: Dec 4, 2002

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Comments: Andy lost the coin toss so I got to lead this first, placing all the gear, then I cleaned it and Andy led it in similar fashion.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Blackout (5.12b)
By: slevin When: Oct 11, 2002

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Comments: Jim, the beta is actually Right, Left, Right, Left, Right, Left, Right, Left.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: slevin When: Sep 30, 2002

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Comments: Using data from the Wilderness Use Permits the NPS tracks statistics for all inner canyon use (hiking, fishing, climbing, failing to climb). Besides being the law, filling out these permits allows the NPS to accurately count climber use in the inner canyon (we are by far the heaviest user group) which in turn helps our voice be heard by the Park managers.

I suspect climbers who protest the system are lazy, or consider it some vague affront to the "wild and free" Black Canyon experience of yes... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: slevin When: Sep 25, 2002

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Comments: OK Charles, am I that obvious? You see, my manager here at the blood works is catching on that I frig away a lot of time on this site instead of working, so he's started to monitor how often I comment....

I've led the first pitch 2 distinct ways- if memory serves me, first by going up and right after the overlap, into a peg flake/corner system (5.9 R), and second, trending up and slightly left, then following a shallow groove/corner straight up, avoiding the big corner on the right entirely (5... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Englishman's Home (5.11+)
By: slevin When: Sep 19, 2002

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Comments: If you lead this in one pitch from the ground, make sure to use long slings at the start. One idea is to clip the fixed pin and bolt on the Athlete's Feat mantle, then downclimb and unclip from the pin. Once above the mantle reach down and change the QD on the bolt to a long runner. Also, consider using long slings on the gear at the start of the crux section (added excitement), and don't protect right under the CC Crack roof. I did all this and still had some rope drag on the CC Crack crux ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : The Untitled (5.12a)
By: slevin When: Sep 18, 2002

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Comments: Sorry for the misinformation Richard. The story I heard (which you state is incorrect) is that Jack and Bret were the first to free climb (i.e. redpoint) this line, and had named it Fuzzy Dice.

"Fuzzy Dice" is a clever and fitting name for a route on this crag. However, the name "The Untitled" should probably be reinstated now that you have clarified the route's history.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: slevin When: Sep 18, 2002

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Comments: Just a reminder that you must sign out for ALL inner-canyon travel. It only takes a minute to go down to the North Rim ranger station and fill out a "Wilderness Use Permit" located in a box outside the building and available 24 hours a day (on the South Rim, the permit box is located outside the Visitor Center). Also, fill out the white board outside the building with your name, date and climb- this helps inform others where you will be, and allows fellow climbers to see where heavy traffic mig... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Gorilla's Delight (5.9+)
By: slevin When: Sep 13, 2002

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Comments: As I'm sure many of you know, "Hot Henry" Barber on-sight free soloed this in the mid-1970s and, according to his account, came closer to taking the big one on it than on any of his other solos. When climbing GD this is easy to understand- a difficult start into thin, insecure climbing, and a bit of routefinding on the slab. Henry stated that, in retrospect, it was a poor choice for a free solo, but his approach at that time was pretty much to "do it and ask questions later", so to speak. I al... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes
By: slevin When: Sep 10, 2002

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Comments: Nice that published guides have not eliminated adventure in the Black.

It would probably be wise to take anything ever written about the Black- whether in a guidebook, magazine article, or on this website- with a big grain of salt.

This applies in particular to anything I have written.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes
By: slevin When: Sep 5, 2002

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Comments: [Eds. this comment has been edited at the request of the commenter] For routes on the main SCVW a viable access is via the "Astro Slog" raps (see the topo under the Astro Dog route description). The start is upriver a few feet from the overlook, at a boulder. Two ropes are required. This has cleaned up a bit, the anchors are good, and most are easy to locate. Try to trend more climbers-right at the bottom, lest you stray into the super-munge to the left. Plan on 2-3 hours. A second option is t... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: slevin When: Sep 5, 2002

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Comments: For those of you with a copy of Jeff Achey, Dudley Chelton and Bob Godfrey's revised "CLIMB! The History of Colorado Rock Climbing", the crux pitch of Astrodog is pictured on the cover.

The name derives from the FA party's discovery at the base of the climb of a decaying poodle carcass- the remnants of a poor little pooch who had taken the big dive from the rim.

Astro Dog belongs to the "Astro" series of routes (all must-do routes) including Astroman in Yosemite, Astro Hulk in the Sierras... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Bell Crack (5.11b)
By: slevin When: Sep 3, 2002

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Comments: Alternative gear list: Camalots #.75, #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, Big Bro #2, long slings. Plan on sliding the #4 and #5 Camalots along in places. As of 09-01-02 there is a fixed wire at the crux roof that is easy to clip your aider into. It would be unwise to climb this with any skin exposed below neck level. Regarding the moves, if you are able to lock off on a painful hand jam, let both feet dangle, and then rock onto a tenuous toe jam while s... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : I'd Rather Be In Philadelph... (5.12)
By: slevin When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: The rock quality is marginal on parts of this route, but the climbing is excellent. The crux bulge is difficult and rather continuous, and placing gear is challenging. Desperately lunging for the anchor slings with a full pump is not uncommon. A noble community service would be for someone to replace this anchor with a modern arrangement (sans wad-o-slings), but if you drill be particularly wary of the rock quality. The original line did not stop at the present-day anchors but was purported t... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: slevin When: Jul 30, 2002

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Comments: I recently watched in horror as a climber parked himself at the base of Lamb's Slide to put crampons on (stopping every minute or so to crouch behind a boulder to hide from flying rocks)- and then proceeded to solo it, dodging rocks big enough to take him out the whole way up! A definite candidate for the 2002 Darwin Awards. Best to stay away from this one until it starts freezing solid at night again, then catch it at first light.

Being anywhere near the base of Lamb's Slide, North Chimney, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Plastic Jesus (5.11b R)
By: slevin When: May 2, 2002

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Comments: Talked with Roger about the way he went on the first ascent. He moved right at the blank-out spot, not left like I described in the comments. Either way its good climbing. -SL


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Squeeze Box (5.9)
By: slevin When: Mar 11, 2002

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Comments: I thought this was one of the worst, most insignificant desert towers I have ever done, anywhere. Prepare to do sideways offwidth through packrat spooge on loose, soft rock. Maybe I am old and sensitive, but one star seems pretty generous. Still, if you make it a point of ticking towers, I guess you gotta do it. By the way, the tower is called The Defecating Monk. -SL


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: slevin When: Oct 18, 2001

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Comments: Some historical tidbits: when first free climbed in the early 1970s pitch 1 was the standout crux of the route, due to the abundance of fixed pins filling up most of the finger jams. This was first led by Steve Wunsch and rated 5.10+. On the complete FFA of the route a short while later Jim Erickson, in blue suede RRs, sans chalk, stemmed the entire pitch using only a finger jam or two. Over the years the first pitch became easier and easier, as more pins fell out. By the late 1970s no fixed... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Easy Jam (5.4)
By: slevin When: Sep 1, 2001

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Comments: Add Handjacker (5.7+) to the Intro to Wide Cracks 101 list.


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