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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Veil : Zabrina (5.10c)
By: Steve Levin When: Apr 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt has been replaced.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Steve Levin When: Feb 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Last week Steve Annecone and I rappelled the route with intent to replace the pulled bolt. We both missed the location of the bolt hole, and both thought the route looked "intact" i.e. no significant runout up by the flake. With Joshua's information now in hand, I think the FHRC is evaluating the necessity of replacing the (button head) bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Steve Levin When: Feb 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg, Joshua,
I have a permit from the park to replace this bolt (and evaluate all others). I will be doing this on Wednesday. I'll post when it's been replaced.
Cheers,
Steve
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbol... (5.11+)
By: Steve Levin When: Dec 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The reference I've found for "Raccoon Soup" is Alec Sharp's "Boulder New Climbs '81" p21. This credits the "first ascent" as Chris Peisker, Christian Griffith 8-12-1980. So Ken Duncan and Scott Blunk did indeed do the FA in 1977.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Camouflage (5.12b)
By: Steve Levin When: Dec 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: To my knowledge the arete is unclimbed. Anyone else know more?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Working Class Hero (5.7)
By: Steve Levin When: Dec 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is pitch three of "Working Class Hero", FA Carl Harrison, Jim Stuberg, Chip Ruckgaber*, Sandy East, 1980. [Ref: Boulder New Climbs '81, p27, Alec Sharp] (*Credited in the Falcon guide, but not in Sharp.) Eds. this was submitted on a route which now is P3 of Working Class Hero.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : ... : Photo
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nope, it should stay in "Routes below the Lower Ramp", according to the organization of this website. Sorry I was unclear.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : ... : Photo
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Direct Start to Super Slab is on the Lower West Face of Redgarden Wall, roughly below the summit of Vertigo tower, which in turn is below the top of Tower One. The climb ends at Grand Giraffe ledge (i.e. the top of the Lower Ramp) very near the start to Super Slab (which summits Vertigo tower).
Redgarden is complex, and the system used on this website is but one way to subdivide and organize the various facets of the formation.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is "Direct Start To Your Basic Lieback". The overhang left of center is the start of "Just Another Girl's Climb".
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Final Eviction (aka Fre... (5.13)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Freeline" is the complete first pitch of the original aid route done here by Ron Olevsky in the early 1970s (A3 crux right off the ground back then). It has been reported as both the "Olevsky Route" and "Aid Line".
The first reported free ascent of pitch one was by Justen Sjong in early 2000 (pitch two was freed by Chris Reveley in the 1970s). The crux is still the first 15 feet, then a long 5.12 section to the bolt, then right into the crux of what is now Evictor.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Clean Freak (5.12a PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dogpatch (5.8 R) is (was) just a short by-pass, connecting the first pitch of Crow's Landing to Auntie Perspirant, but avoiding the 5.10 R Auntie Perspirant crux. It is the arete in the P1 description. Never reported and very obscure, it's only redeeming feature was avoidance of harder shit-climbing. I would also rate the first pitch as described 5.10-.
Good job on the corner, been looking at that a long time!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Phee-nix (5.12b R)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: From talking with a few people who have done this, Phee Nix does not step in from Flakey Floont on the right, but begins with the boulder problem start described above, i.e. you climb directly into the corner from below (good hold for right, reach left to OK hold, reach right high to sloper, shallow pocket, better pocket, bucket). I still need to ask Mike Brooks (FA) about it, but I know David Light led the bouldery start in the late 1980s after he worked it on TR a bit. On toprope this felt lik... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FHRC process for approving/rejecting bolted new route proposals includes a period for input from the climbing community. Please take the time to personally review new route and/or anchor proposals during this period, and make your opinions known.
The FHRC process is only made better with more climber input. It's extra work for you, but not nearly as much work as the climber who susses a new line, puts forth a proposal, goes through the voting, gets a permit from Steve M., installs the li... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Sands of Iwo Jima (5.11c/d)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, what's with the double bolts at the crux?
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Location: Ron Olsen : Eldorado Anchor Proposals : Photo
By: Steve Levin When: Sep 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This anchor was (obviously) needed, and thanks Ron, Greg and Bob.
Just a thought: for high traffic rappel routes wouldn't a double ring be better? I'm sure this Fixe stainless ring is very strong, and suitable at the time of installation. But even stainless will wear over time from repeated rope friction. IMHO redundancy in an anchor should extend to the rope interface. On several occasions I have seen carabiners at this anchor left to back up the single ring, by climbers who seem to agree.
O... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Hanging Chad (5.11b PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Sep 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hanging Chad 5.11b PG13 *
FA Chad Greedy & Steve Levin, March 2007
Climb the first crack left of Sick Flake to easy flakes (5.10a). Go straight up the left-arching column (the "hanging chad") and pull over just left of the Sooberb corner.
Technical and strenuous, a bit contrived but worthwhile climbing. An earlier attempt (2000) veered left below the chad and joined Court Jester- the route Tony described above.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Superspar (5.11b)
By: Steve Levin When: Sep 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris- the 5.9+ corner is the top of the Poached Eggs pitch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Apple Strudel (5.12a)
By: Steve Levin When: Sep 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to High Over Boulder, 1970: "Via a very thin flake, reach a bolt 15-20 feet up, and continue nailing upward. etc."
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: David- Either you had a psychotic episode and should seek immediate medical attention, or the Grandmother's Challenge crack goes all the way through to Darkness 'Til Dawn, and the human sounds you heard were from a climber grunting their way up that climb. My guess is there's no need to find your insurance card just yet.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ament's 1975 Eldorado guide documents this as a variation to The Yellow Spur, first climbed by Bob Culp in the 1960s. According to Jim Erickson, this was (and one assumes, still is) one of Culp's favorite climbs in the canyon; indeed it was the first route Jim ever climbed with Culp, sometime around 1968 (personal communication).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Upstairs (5.8)
By: Steve Levin When: Aug 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Upstairs, FA Larry Dalke and Bill Chase, 1965.
According to Jim Erickson in Rocky Heights 1980:
"Upstairs 5.6. This wanders up the right margin of the upper wall (i.e. Upper Peanuts), into a prominent dihedral."
It is the most-obvious and cleanest line on the entire formation, and considering the compressed ratings of the day, it is easy to conclude this is Dalke's route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just wanted to say this is one of the best sport routes on the Front Range and thanks to Alan for his time, effort and $$$ establishing it for us to enjoy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Open project, bolted late 1990s by Fred Knapp and dubbed The Ordinary and the Mundane.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Continental Crag : Plate Tectonics (5.9)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Removed the flake today. Another Top Ten Trundle.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Track (5.8)
By: Steve Levin When: Jul 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The interesting line Leo mentions has been led. See "Do or Do Not".
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