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Sundevil Chimney, Titan


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Steve Levin


Point Rank: # 390
Total Points: 1,393
Last Year: 67
Last 30 Days: 0
31 Compliments
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Contributions


All (600) | Routes (86) | Areas (4) | Photos (54) | Comments (203) | Posts (154) | Stars (94) | Ratings (5)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Streaked Wall : Rodeo Queen (5.10 A4)
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this with Jeff Achey in November 1999 in a very leisurely 5 days car-to-car. Think it was the 4th ascent (Pennings & Hollenbaugh did the 3rd). We had a pair of ravens hang with us the entire time. The only dangerous pitch was the last one because it was really soft and the wall went to less-than-vertical and you could hit something if you fell- every other pitch (except maybe off Rubicon) you could rip and just fall into space. Topped out on Jeff's birthday to the last of our red wine. G... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : NED (Nothing Except Dynamic... (5.12b PG13) : Photo
By: Steve Levin When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: Bob, apologies on not getting the first solo ascent correct. I'll credit you in the 3rd edition ... just saw this and we've gone to press with the 2nd.
Hope you are well!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Arkansas Patriot (aka Wonde... (5.9+)
By: Steve Levin When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: There is another bolted route left of the route described in this entry and shown in the photos Ivan posted. It has 4 bolts and 1 fixed pin to 2-bolt anchor, with a 5.9 move between bolts 1 & 2.
I'm confused.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : ... : Southeast Face (5.11-)
By: Steve Levin When: Dec 30, 2012

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Comments: FFA Mark Robinson, Sandy Stewart, Steve Levin, August 1977.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : New Eldo Guidebook + free e...
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 15, 2009

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Comments: The new Eldo guide is available now at area shops including Neptune and Bent Gate.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : New Eldo Guidebook - Previe...
By: Steve Levin When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: The new Eldorado guidebook has arrived in Colorado!
Neptune Mountaineering has copies...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Roofed Out (5.7 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Mar 27, 2009

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Comments: As a side note, during research for the Eldo guide I'm now finishing up, climbers have reported doing this variation as far back as 1970. It was the standard bailout for failure on the Tagger Roof; ascents starting as far back as late-1968 (right after Erickson freed the roof) probably occurred.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11a)
By: Steve Levin When: Mar 17, 2009

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Comments: The loose flake has been removed.
Note it is now more difficult (and more runout) to clip the fixed pin off the rotten band-- the flake was a foothold for the clip.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Steve Levin When: Feb 18, 2009

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Comments: The proposal was approved, but the anchor has not been installed. Should happen soon....


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock : Regular Route (5.9 C0)
By: Steve Levin When: Jan 21, 2009

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Comments: This is one of the great classic North American rock climbs. It is up there among the best routes I have ever done, not for the climbing, but for the experience. And after all, that's what we're after, right?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Steve Levin When: Jan 10, 2009

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Comments: One of the holds is called the "Peanut."


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Crystal Vision (5.11 R)
By: Steve Levin When: Dec 29, 2008

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Comments: I thought the approach was pretty okay--6 double rope rappels and then down-gully slummin' with no poison ivy. Locate the first rap anchor the day before-- it's a bit obscure. The route itself is alright. It'll clean up a bit with more ascents, notably the chimney pitch. Still a bit of that shady-side dirtiness to it. Kind of a worker's crack climb, although the cruxes up high are both face climbing. The 5.10+ arete is definitely sketch. Get on it early in the day and it'll be a good route for w... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Magnum Block : Magnum Force (V5)
By: Steve Levin When: Sep 26, 2008

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Comments: FA Dan Stone.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11a)
By: Steve Levin When: Jun 15, 2008

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Comments: The Park is waiting to determine the exact location of the gas line that runs a mere few inches under the road surface. I believe RMR will do the removal once they get the go-ahead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Zeros and Ones (5.11+ PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: Jun 6, 2008

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Comments: Chris--
It's the original fourth pitch of Practice Climb 101, which tackles the huge roof left of the Sooberb crux roof. Erickson left it out of Rocky Heights, since as you know he only included free climbs. The omission was perpetuated in subsequent guidebooks.

From: "ELDORADO: A Climber's Route Guide" by Pat Ament (1975) pages 105-106:
Practice Climb Number 101. II, 5.7, A3.
First ascent in 1966 by Larry and Roger Dalke.
Find the start to the Side Wall. Immediately to the left (north) is a s... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Sobo : Bo Diddley (5.11c R)
By: Steve Levin When: Jun 4, 2008

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Comments: We decided to call this fantastic SoBo pitch "Bo Diddley" in remembrance of the recently-deceased rock and blues guitar great.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Foxtrot (5.11d PG13)
By: Steve Levin When: May 24, 2008

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Comments: I proposed a 2-bolt anchor above Foxtrot/Crazy Fingers in 2001, and (if I remember correctly) it was approved by the FHRC in June of that year. Due to events out of my control I never followed up on the proposal, and after some thought, decided against pursuing it further. I agree that the current set-up is inconvenient, but Foxtrot is getting a lot of ascents, and the current anchor is, at least, workable. There are many examples in the canyon where a 2-bolt anchor is necessary. Is this one of ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Serrated Jam Crack (5.10a)
By: Steve Levin When: May 2, 2008

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Comments: This route was first described on page 124 of Pat Ament's 1975 Eldorado guidebook, so it is hardly likely that a 1983 first ascent claim is valid.

"Serrated Jam-Crack 5.9+.
Reach a sloping ledge about 40 feet below a large tree in the prominent dihedral between the two main aretes. Starting with a traverse left beneath a rotten overhang, climb 40 feet up and right to a prominent, serrated jam-crack which leads to the rotten ledge on Gambit."

No first ascent credit is given.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Veil : Zabrina (5.10c)
By: Steve Levin When: Apr 5, 2008

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Comments: The bolt has been replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Steve Levin When: Feb 21, 2008

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Comments: Last week Steve Annecone and I rappelled the route with intent to replace the pulled bolt. We both missed the location of the bolt hole, and both thought the route looked "intact" i.e. no significant runout up by the flake. With Joshua's information now in hand, I think the FHRC is evaluating the necessity of replacing the (button head) bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Steve Levin When: Feb 11, 2008

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Comments: Greg, Joshua,
I have a permit from the park to replace this bolt (and evaluate all others). I will be doing this on Wednesday. I'll post when it's been replaced.
Cheers,
Steve


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbol... (5.11+)
By: Steve Levin When: Dec 14, 2007

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Comments: The reference I've found for "Raccoon Soup" is Alec Sharp's "Boulder New Climbs '81" p21. This credits the "first ascent" as Chris Peisker, Christian Griffith 8-12-1980. So Ken Duncan and Scott Blunk did indeed do the FA in 1977.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Camouflage (5.12b)
By: Steve Levin When: Dec 14, 2007

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Comments: To my knowledge the arete is unclimbed. Anyone else know more?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Working Class Hero (5.7)
By: Steve Levin When: Dec 9, 2007

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Comments: This is pitch three of "Working Class Hero", FA Carl Harrison, Jim Stuberg, Chip Ruckgaber*, Sandy East, 1980. [Ref: Boulder New Climbs '81, p27, Alec Sharp] (*Credited in the Falcon guide, but not in Sharp.) Eds. this was submitted on a route which now is P3 of Working Class Hero.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : ... : Photo
By: Steve Levin When: Nov 21, 2007

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Comments: Nope, it should stay in "Routes below the Lower Ramp", according to the organization of this website. Sorry I was unclear.


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