Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 7, 2005
Contact steve dieckhoff


Point Rank: # 2,954
Total Points: 168
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has steve dieckhoff been climbing?










Contributions


All 85 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts | Stars 8 | Ratings
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Rhythm Scratch (5.10+ R)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Jan 7, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Rhythm Scratch follows the arch above that of Connections as shown in this photo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Pitts (5.11b)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Dec 14, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: This is an excellent route. I believe it has been soloed by Eric Goukas.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Jul 30, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: After forgetting this site for a pleasantly long time I see that not much has changed..... but I'd like to say that I appreciate Richard Wright's thoughtful comments and open-minded attitude.

If there's anything that gives a moment's pause to impulse-bolting then it's all for the good - because what's the big hurry? I think a good climb is more than just a series of moves and that over-bolting stunts the imagination and makes it all prosaic and pedestrian. I've said time and time again that I... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Jul 29, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, this is a typical example of doublespeak. On the one hand this is only a gym route (and gym routes are changed with regularity) but on the other there is supposed to be a special honor conferred on somebody who poorly bolts a piece of rock after top-roping it. It's ironic that the "right of the first-ascentionist" is the one traditional right proclaimed, even when they really aren't a first-ascentionist at all but only a misguided routesetter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: steve dieckhoff When: May 21, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Bill makes a good point but actually I think there are 2 variations which work as 3rd pitches. One is shown on the photo and one is as he describes. I believe the one he describes is the Barber Direct. The convenience bolts at the top of the dihedral were approverd by the FHRC to facilitate lowering back down the dihedral and were proposed by someone who was "guiding" in Eldo at the time. It seems to me that any "convenience" is compromised by having the second have to fight thru the rope at... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: steve dieckhoff When: May 17, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: PLEASE DON'T RAP DOWN ONTO PONY EXPRESS. A walk-off, with a short easy down-climbing section, begins in the notch to the west of the summit and angles west. It's faster, and safer for everyone, if you use this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : The Side Wall (5.11b R)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Apr 2, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: It's good to link these pitches. The rope runs well - see photo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Conversions (5.12 X)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Apr 2, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Rolo repeated this today in true "Headpoint" style, but w/o crashpads. See attached photos of duct-taped hooks & Birdbeak and try to imagine the horrified excitement I felt as the belayer. Whew.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Rictus (5.11c X)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Mar 31, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: The headlines would be: Rolo Flashes Rictus-Second Unable to Follow. We were inspired today by Dougald's excellent beta and after I toproped it, sort of, and sussed out the gear we pulled the rope and Rolando Garibotti led it. It took a bit of seduction, a few reversals, and plenty of gear fiddling. The piece I had the most faith in, as a belayer, was a sling behind the top of the flake. Rolo committed to the sequence and then forsake the "gear placed at our feet" episode in favor of upward m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Thunderworld (5.11)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Nov 21, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: The hold was broken when I first got there. I drilled the bolt (3/8") by hand on the lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdeath/Candallegro (5.13b)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Nov 6, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: -responding to the question about Mickey Mouse Die-rect.....It's a very good route with the crux being safer than getting to it. Not wanting to spoil it with too much beta I'll only say that there are different ways to do it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Nov 6, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I'd like to second Quincy's comment. Many pitches in Eldo are far more memorable than they would be as clip-ups. I think if you consider a 'climb' as an event rather than just a sequence of moves then you value the ones that give you a lasting memory rather than just your daily pump. Put the 2nd (crux) pitch of the Northwest Corner of the Bastille on the list of things that were quite safe with modern gear after the fixed pins had fallen out. A perfect cam protected the crux but Chris Archer wen... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Nov 2, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Another good loop is to go up the Rover dihedral and down Ruper....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Smoke & Mirrors (5.10a)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Oct 30, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Actually since Smoke & Mirrors was first done as a solo and later bolted I think this shows that good routes would be done. There are quite a few examples of routes that were first done as solos - Blind Faith is probably the best known around here. Sometimes the person returns to it to add bolts after getting input from 'the community'. I imagine that you all would be surprised to know that even I've done this (in Arizona). Mic did a good route with S&M. A better anchor on top might not be a ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Oct 28, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I agree this is sort of an Eldo classic in the sense that it is so unique. It always makes me a bit twitchy to think of Michael Gilbert free-soloing this. (I don't know who else has.) I usually think of this as a good 'simulator' for the 4th pitch of the [Edge]..... similar awkwardness.As for the pin (my 2cents)..... First, I'm wondering how often it gets fallen on from any distance.....if it only gets the occasional body weight it might last much longer than we think. Second, if it did fail wo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Sep 3, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Ken, just as you suspect - combining the 1st and 2nd pitches is a good link amd doesn't cause rope drag.....but the area before and after the tree is more 'sporty' for both the leader and the second if you skip or skimp on protection there. Linking these pitches is a classic "double-rope" situation.

Since the first pitch is pretty challenging for some people to even follow a semi-hanging belay immediately after the bulge might be considered. It allows you to see and communicate with the seco... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Aug 13, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: That's an impressive "first-lead-ever" and not really one that I'd recommend as such. One thing worth mentioning is that the 2nd pitch is a good alternative to the 2nd pitch of Blind Faith (up & left from the belay and joining it just above the OW). As P2 of Blind Faith is a bit dodgey at dusk, there is no fixed rap anchors atop P1, and they didn't know about the West Chimney, Beth chose the dubious descent route toward the right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Magnetism (5.11c)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Aug 11, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Is there, as they say, a grain of truth to Ken Trout's attempt at humor? By skipping 2/3 of the bolts on this route I didn't change it for those who can only imagine bolts, but neither was it much harder than clipping the bolts. It's just a rather disappointing experience given the potential for greatness. Before you list trad routes that haven't had bolts added to them you should ask Alan Nelson about the Bacher-Yerian.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Rogue's Arete (5.10a R)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Aug 11, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch must have gotten easier - perhaps due to large loose lumps moving aside to allow you to ramble more-or-less up the arete. The suggestion to link the 2nd and 3rd pitches worked well today. From a belay just right of the tree near the arete I was able to make it to the top with double 50 meter ropes, with rope to spare. The bolt was the best-looking 40 year old quarter-incher that I've ever seen so I clipped it with a 'fall-arrester' and backed it up with a good small cam at the ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: steve dieckhoff When: May 27, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I agree that this is a classic, but would encourage people to descend via the 'walk-off' rather than rappel down over the ever-popular Pony Express. The walk-off angles down west from the notch. Other than some short easy down-climbing sections it is straightforward. Avoid anything that looks like a hanging scree slope.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: steve dieckhoff When: May 11, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Re: route modification...

I don't believe those dishes you're refering to were done intentionally. I think it's just the traffic on a popular soft sandstone route. Otto's Route is a different story. One would think the art of climbing had evolved since then but apparently not (see: S St Vrain, Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek Canyon, etc).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: steve dieckhoff When: May 7, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: To AC - regarding routefinding.... you make a good point. Looking up at the wall, find the large block/ledge a rope-length above you. The first pitch finishes by surmounting a bulge at the base of this block and angling left (runout except for a funky big stopper placement) and then up just left-of-center. To get to this block you'll find the 'bucket ladder' directly beneath. Getting to the first bucket is a bit runout but 5.6ish. It sounds like this is the point you reached. If you get to th... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts
By: steve dieckhoff When: Mar 13, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Da Butts are hard to climb because of the cracks in it. If you wedge yourself between them it will make it a lot better. Good luck.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Jules Verne (5.11b/c R)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Dec 3, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: You were probably on route for that last pitch. It doesn't get done much.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Muscle and Hate (5.10d PG13)
By: steve dieckhoff When: Nov 12, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Led this today and found it to be very good, well-protected, and pumpy.


Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>