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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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Where has Steve "Crusher" Bartlett been climbing?










Steve "Crusher" Bartlett

 
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All 630 | Routes 51 | Areas 22 | Photos 270 | Page Improvements | Comments 176 | Posts 39 | Stars 67 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : The Toaster Wall
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Mid-June 2015, this road access to Toaster Rock appears to be officially, though temporarily closed. There's a "Road Closed" sign. We drove a little ways in to camp away from the main road. Long hike. The nasty part of the road is ~halfway (on the map, that would be above the "h" of the red "the" of "...the Toaster Wall." Mud is axle deep for a short uphill section.


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Laramie River Canyon Rocks
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Dirt roads around here have been affected by the 2015 spring rains.

1. As of mid-June 2015, just beyond the Green Gate is a muddy wash, followed by more deep mud ruts. We used 4WD, high clearance. Not sure if 2WD would work right now. YMMV. Doubtless it'll dry out with time and drier weather.

2. Beyond, the road almost disappears under an ocean of waist-high grasses, with occasional deep ruts hiding underneath, again, 4WD high clearance is prudent.

3. All trace of the 300-yard side-road on th... more >>


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Laramie River Canyon Rocks : Gneiss Canyon : Bonnie Lass (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Excellent climbing! Eldoesque and continuously interesting. Vertical start, then lots of nice edges and crimps and just a tad under vertical, to a slabby finish.

Counted 8 bolts, plus two rap hangers at top (no rings/links, just fat rappel hangers, so best to rappel when done).


Location: UT : Grand Staircase : The Desert Wedding Site : The Groom's Tower : The Leap of Faith (5.4 R)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: The "lover's leap!" Not the best landing, on serrated coral limestone blocks.

It's also possible to stem across. Returning this way it becomes apparent that where you left the Bride's Tower is a ridiculously thin diving-board plate of brittle limestone, outrageously undercut. If it broke you'd plummet and there would undoubtedly be a razor-sharp edge for the rope to run over. Highly recommended....


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Stopped by to check this out. Man, there's a lot of bolts.

First ascent, aid climb, solo, used no bolts, no drilled holes, except two rappel bolts at top.

Second ascent of tower, belayed by partners, also climbed on aid, with hammer and pitons, added thirteen more bolts to this little tower?

Maybe I'm silly to still hew to the traditional ethic of keeping the hole count low on new routes .... it's more work and time and even risk. But otherwise there's not much uncertainty left. And you gotta... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon... (5.11+ C1 PG13)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this Nov 2014. Notes:
1. For aiding, the rack is huge! Many, many cams from fingers (about first 30 feet or so) to ring-lock size to tight hands to hands to rattly hands and eventually fists, 180 feet up.

2. This may go free. There are a couple spots with hands-off rests that could be used to break up this monster pitch into 2 or 3 shorter pitches (or to stop and haul up more gear).

3. The rock is basically sound and yet threw a bunch of loose flakes/holds off. In particular entering t... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: First Ascent: Kyle Copelend, Ron Olevsky.

Original name, from the FA party, of the formation: "The Bulbous Head"


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: First Ascent: Kyle Copelend, Ron Olevsky.

Original name, from the FA party, of the formation: "The Bulbous Head"


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : "Sapper", the tower being "... (5.8 C1+ PG13)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: May 10, 2014

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Comments: It's possible to hike to the start of pitch 3. Start a mile west, hike into a bay, friction up a slab, across the top, find the hidden scramble descent to the big ledge. Long approach, but once at the tower, fun, fast pitch with excellent rock to a cool summit. Used one set cams to 4-inch, with doubles of 1.5 inch (for the belay) and 3-inch.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Cleopatra's Needle Area : Cleopatra's Needle, East Fa... (5.9 A3)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Also goes in two pitches, via the central crack (line of the original ascent). 1: 5.choss and some easy aid to the big ledge. 2: 5.9 move to smaller ledge, clean aid (maybe C2) to top. Mostly 1/2" to 1" parallel crack with larger pods from old piton ascents. Bring LOTS of wires, larger sizes, ~BD 6-12, and selection of cams (2 each up to ~3", few extra around Yellow/Red Alien size). No hammer needed (though we used one to help clean a few of the wires that seemed to seat themselves real tight). ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Abraxas Wall : Abraxes Tower (5.9)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Bring two 60m ropes for the rappel and watch the rope ends. Even with two 60s, there's just inches to spare!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Beaking In Tongues (5.8 A4)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: "Matt and I climbed this last week in two days"

Two days? In my memory, the FA took, like, most of one spring's worth of weekends.

Cannot imagine doing the first four pitches in just one day.

My mind is severely overboggled. Excellent work, Ben!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Mt. Everest : Kangshung Face (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Climbed these both last weekend. Ideal desert towers for when your partner has a broken leg. There's currently a fixed BD Specter at the roof of Everest--weird. Just 16 inches right is an excellent hand-size cam slot in perfect rock and and down a bit is the horizontal #6 Camalot.

In the interests of helping transition this tower to non-hammering:

1. Tricky mantel at start is unprotected but once stood up there's reasonable green/yellow/red Alien-size slot, then one move higher a per... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Eagle Plume Tower : Fuzzy Crockpot (5.8 A2+) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Yeah! Badly stacked, red, fossilized, milk crates. Good stuff.


Location: Southern Utah Deserts : Kingfisher bolts : Post : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: I count 11 bolts. Click on this to view at full size for the full effect.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Brownian Motion (aka Brown ... (5.11a PG13)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: I led this, Jan 1983, with Steve Unsch. Onsight lead. We assumed it was a first ascent. I told Ken Black that evening, round the fire, and next day Ken decided he wanted to do the second ascent, and we all wandered over and I took this photo. He was being belayed by a Canadian guy.

We named this Brownian Motion.

To add to the story, Ken Black got no further than than in the photo I posted. Unhappy, he began badmouthing both the climb and me. Not happy about this, proud of my first ascent, I si... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Brownian Motion (aka Brown ... (5.11a PG13) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: First ascent is probably me. I led this, Jan 1983, with Steve Unsch. We assumed it was a first ascent. I told Ken Black that evening, round the fire, and next day Ken decided he wanted to do the second ascent, and we all wandered over and I took this photo. He was being belayed by a Canadian guy.

So, FA: Steve Bartlett, Steve Unsch, Jan 1983.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sunshine Wall : Dickfour : Original Route (5.9+ A2+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: ...style of British cuisine....?

No, no, that doesn't sound right.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sunshine Wall : Dickfour : Original Route (5.9+ A2+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: Nice write up, Ben!

One thing, the name of the tower is, of course, supposed to be Dickfour, one word.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Flying Buttress (5.10b)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: "FA by Doug Cairns with Diana McWilliams belaying, in the '70s."

My old partner Bill Roberts suggested he might have led this first, for what it's worth. Who knows? I do know he stuck me on it, long ago (mid-1980s?), and I just flailed....


Location: MT : Blodgett Canyon : Shoshone Spire : In Memoriam (5.10 PG13)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this in 1987. There was at least one bolt at that time (I have a photo of me trying to clip it, using a stick.

I recall I thought it about mid-grade 5.10. Definitely "R" rated. That first pitch is pretty runout. High quality, as I remember. Great liebacking up a slopey, slabby edge.

When we did it, we clipped a bolt that was in a different place to the ones on the topo. There's a bolt up on top of the big flake (unless maybe someone moved it?). Also the climber in the FA action photo,... more >>


Location: CO : Diamond Reflections - Early...
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: Since this event brings together George Hurley, Huntley Ingalls, and Steve Komito, the second night, Saturday, will feature a slideshow and discussion of the first ascents of the Titan and of Standing Rock.

This is truly rare and special!

Well beyond the vertical....
Well beyond the vertical....



Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Time to update the intro!

Stevie did the FFA of Sundevil, 5.13 X, in 2002. Ben Bransby and Pete Robins freed Finger of Fate, March 2005. Finger of Fate free, 5.12, has also been repeated by Jason Haas (April 2011) and Will Stanhope (April 2013).


Location: CO : Desert Towers Show, Denver
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments:
Texas Tower.
Texas Tower.




Derek Hersey, Texas Tower, pitch 2.
Derek Hersey, Texas Tower, pitch 2.



Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : The Iron Chef (5.7 A3+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: Three bolts on each belay. All good bolts, placed in 2007 (all are 4", most are half-inch). Top anchor has a good ledge, next one down has a small ledge for one person to stand or sit, lowest anchor has very little, semi-hanging with a sloping footledge as I recall.

Yeah, the rap line is pretty direct, might be quite convenient for rapping Phantom Sprint.


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