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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Steve "Crusher" Bartlett


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Total Points: 2,306
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Steve "Crusher" Bartlett been climbing?










Steve "Crusher" Bartlett

 
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All 613 | Routes 51 | Areas 22 | Photos 259 | Page Improvements | Comments 171 | Posts 39 | Stars 66 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon... (5.11+ C1 PG13)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this Nov 2014. Notes:
1. For aiding, the rack is huge! Many, many cams from fingers (about first 30 feet or so) to ring-lock size to tight hands to hands to rattly hands and eventually fists, 180 feet up.

2. This may go free. There are a couple spots with hands-off rests that could be used to break up this monster pitch into 2 or 3 shorter pitches (or to stop and haul up more gear).

3. The rock is basically sound and yet threw a bunch of loose flakes/holds off. In particular entering t... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: First Ascent: Kyle Copelend, Ron Olevsky.

Original name, from the FA party, of the formation: "The Bulbous Head"


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: First Ascent: Kyle Copelend, Ron Olevsky.

Original name, from the FA party, of the formation: "The Bulbous Head"


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : "Sapper", the tower being "... (5.8 C1+ PG13)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: May 10, 2014

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Comments: It's possible to hike to the start of pitch 3. Start a mile west, hike into a bay, friction up a slab, across the top, find the hidden scramble descent to the big ledge. Long approach, but once at the tower, fun, fast pitch with excellent rock to a cool summit. Used one set cams to 4-inch, with doubles of 1.5 inch (for the belay) and 3-inch.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Cleopatra's Needle Area : Cleopatra's Needle, East Fa... (5.9 A3)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Also goes in two pitches, via the central crack (line of the original ascent). 1: 5.choss and some easy aid to the big ledge. 2: 5.9 move to smaller ledge, clean aid (maybe C2) to top. Mostly 1/2" to 1" parallel crack with larger pods from old piton ascents. Bring LOTS of wires, larger sizes, ~BD 6-12, and selection of cams (2 each up to ~3", few extra around Yellow/Red Alien size). No hammer needed (though we used one to help clean a few of the wires that seemed to seat themselves real tight). ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Abraxas Wall : Abraxes Tower (5.9)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Bring two 60m ropes for the rappel and watch the rope ends. Even with two 60s, there's just inches to spare!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Beaking In Tongues (5.8 A4)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: "Matt and I climbed this last week in two days"

Two days? In my memory, the FA took, like, most of one spring's worth of weekends.

Cannot imagine doing the first four pitches in just one day.

My mind is severely overboggled. Excellent work, Ben!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Mt. Everest : Kangshung Face (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Climbed these both last weekend. Ideal desert towers for when your partner has a broken leg. There's currently a fixed BD Specter at the roof of Everest--weird. Just 16 inches right is an excellent hand-size cam slot in perfect rock and and down a bit is the horizontal #6 Camalot.

In the interests of helping transition this tower to non-hammering:

1. Tricky mantel at start is unprotected but once stood up there's reasonable green/yellow/red Alien-size slot, then one move higher a per... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Eagle Plume Tower : Fuzzy Crockpot (5.8 A2+) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Yeah! Badly stacked, red, fossilized, milk crates. Good stuff.


Location: Southern Utah Deserts : Kingfisher bolts : Post : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: I count 11 bolts. Click on this to view at full size for the full effect.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Brownian Motion (aka Brown ... (5.11a PG13)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: I led this, Jan 1983, with Steve Unsch. Onsight lead. We assumed it was a first ascent. I told Ken Black that evening, round the fire, and next day Ken decided he wanted to do the second ascent, and we all wandered over and I took this photo. He was being belayed by a Canadian guy.

We named this Brownian Motion.

To add to the story, Ken Black got no further than than in the photo I posted. Unhappy, he began badmouthing both the climb and me. Not happy about this, proud of my first ascent, I si... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Brownian Motion (aka Brown ... (5.11a PG13) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: First ascent is probably me. I led this, Jan 1983, with Steve Unsch. We assumed it was a first ascent. I told Ken Black that evening, round the fire, and next day Ken decided he wanted to do the second ascent, and we all wandered over and I took this photo. He was being belayed by a Canadian guy.

So, FA: Steve Bartlett, Steve Unsch, Jan 1983.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sunshine Wall : Dickfour : Original Route (5.9+ A2+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: ...style of British cuisine....?

No, no, that doesn't sound right.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sunshine Wall : Dickfour : Original Route (5.9+ A2+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: Nice write up, Ben!

One thing, the name of the tower is, of course, supposed to be Dickfour, one word.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Flying Buttress (5.10b)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: "FA by Doug Cairns with Diana McWilliams belaying, in the '70s."

My old partner Bill Roberts suggested he might have led this first, for what it's worth. Who knows? I do know he stuck me on it, long ago (mid-1980s?), and I just flailed....


Location: MT : Blodgett Canyon : Shoshone Spire : In Memoriam (5.10 PG13)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this in 1987. There was at least one bolt at that time (I have a photo of me trying to clip it, using a stick.

I recall I thought it about mid-grade 5.10. Definitely "R" rated. That first pitch is pretty runout. High quality, as I remember. Great liebacking up a slopey, slabby edge.

When we did it, we clipped a bolt that was in a different place to the ones on the topo. There's a bolt up on top of the big flake (unless maybe someone moved it?). Also the climber in the FA action photo,... more >>


Location: CO : Diamond Reflections - Early...
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: Since this event brings together George Hurley, Huntley Ingalls, and Steve Komito, the second night, Saturday, will feature a slideshow and discussion of the first ascents of the Titan and of Standing Rock.

This is truly rare and special!

Well beyond the vertical....
Well beyond the vertical....



Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Time to update the intro!

Stevie did the FFA of Sundevil, 5.13 X, in 2002. Ben Bransby and Pete Robins freed Finger of Fate, March 2005. Finger of Fate free, 5.12, has also been repeated by Jason Haas (April 2011) and Will Stanhope (April 2013).


Location: CO : Desert Towers Show, Denver
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments:
Texas Tower.
Texas Tower.




Derek Hersey, Texas Tower, pitch 2.
Derek Hersey, Texas Tower, pitch 2.



Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : The Iron Chef (5.7 A3+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: Three bolts on each belay. All good bolts, placed in 2007 (all are 4", most are half-inch). Top anchor has a good ledge, next one down has a small ledge for one person to stand or sit, lowest anchor has very little, semi-hanging with a sloping footledge as I recall.

Yeah, the rap line is pretty direct, might be quite convenient for rapping Phantom Sprint.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Go Drown in a Lake of Diet ... (5.11-)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: Sounds like a Heavy Duty route name.....?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: Nice to see a photo of how it was! It's all changed now (2013), due to major rockfall/rockslide. No more high step, instead an easy stem from a fresh (and convenient) new boulder.


Location: CA : Desert Towers Show, San Jos...
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments:
Castleton Tower. First climbed in 1961 by Layton K...
Castleton Tower. First climbed in 1961 by Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls, who narrowly escaped being fried by lightning during their ascent. Now one of the most popular towers in the desert.



Location: SD : Steve Crusher Bartlett Slid...
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: From last week:

Fisher Towers, Utah, last week
Fisher Towers, Utah, last week


Nowhere more colorful!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Mar 9, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this with Cameron Tague, 2000. He led the first pitch all free, no hesitation, no falls, no hangs. I understand Bret Ruckman (or was it Marco?) freed it much earlier.


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