Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Aug 29, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Stephen Nance


Point Rank: # 1,438
Total Points: 429
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Stephen Nance been climbing?










Contributions


All 171 | Routes 26 | Areas 6 | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 14 | Stars 67 | Ratings 19
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Slideshow at Neptune! Stori...
By: Stephen Nance When: Jun 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The show is actually at 7 pm...

neptunemountaineering.com/even...

Stephen


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : West World : ... : In Kneed (V7)
By: Stephen Nance When: Feb 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Right on, good to hear, Andrew. I was surprised by the lack of cleaning on it for how well it climbed! Thanks for the update!

Stephen


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Water Rock : Resonated (V9)
By: Stephen Nance When: Feb 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This thing broke recently.... The bottom crimp around the arete is much larger now than a month or two ago. You can see a large scar where the rock has pulled off. I think it may be easier now... but not for sure. You can match the lower bigger crimp now and skip the compression move all together, but it is still difficult. The beta now is not using the ultra small crimp above the now larger crimp around the arete. Just stay with the lower big crimp now, and go for it.... I don't know if ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Pound Town (5.9+)
By: Stephen Nance When: Aug 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Just FYI, the name comes from two things.... One being the rusty old piton found at the base in some chossy wet cracks.... The other reason is.... Well, it's Dream Canyon....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.9+)
By: Stephen Nance When: Aug 14, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Been looking to do this route for a while now. This climb protects much better than what I have heard if you have small RPs. I got two good nuts on the left side of the pillar. I still didn't want to commit.... But just after the pillar slightly (where the pillar turns juggy), there is a perfect slot for a large RP. It is a SLOTTER nut that protects the crux. From here, you hike your foot up onto the pillar's juggy top and place a bomber #1 cam.... When you get to the top of the ram... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Awakenings (5.12a)
By: Stephen Nance When: Aug 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: FA: Dan Hare.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Whippers in Time (5.11c/d)
By: Stephen Nance When: Jul 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: No way around it, this thing is 12a. Not a long route, but there are three hard moves in a row with somewhat bad feet. Small, yet positive crimps on an overhanging arete. Moves feel like V4 climbing. Worthy of a try by all!

For those wanting to have an easier time clipping the first bolt, you can either:

a) use a good undercling/pocket/sidepull out right just before the business. Stand up tall with a foot on the break of the crack and clip, or

b) head straight up the arete via a good long... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Red Limit (5.12d)
By: Stephen Nance When: Jun 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This climb demands respect. Red Limit will reward technique and tension more so than finger strength. The lieback is the "easy part", though I found it scary to power lieback left on lead with the bolts to your right. Once you get to the mini-roof, it's all about bad feet and tension. Good beta will get you through the moves at around .12d. Be carefully up top above the crux as .11+ slab climbing awaits you. Excellent route.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Moon Child (V10)
By: Stephen Nance When: May 25, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Really great problem, crux move is a "static dynamic" move to a two finger pock that is sinker if you have the accuracy. After that, cruise to the top via large pockets and one small crimp in a diagonal crack. Top is a jug!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas
By: Stephen Nance When: Aug 3, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Jamie Emerson's book is now available at Neptune Mountaineering. Come get it while it's hott!!!


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Photo
By: Stephen Nance When: Jun 28, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Bob! I had been bouldering here also since 1995ish when I first started climbing.. Excellent stuff! I was able to get up 4 lines on the boulder.... Of course, not all of the lines that are now on MP.


Location: CO : Recall Alert: GRIGRI 2
By: Stephen Nance When: Jun 20, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Sorry to hear the amazing, famous Grigri has been re-called, at least it is getting fixed, and Petzl is going through the process properly (paying for all shipping cost, dealing with the customer direct, etc.).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering : ... : Deep Puddle Dynamics (V9+)
By: Stephen Nance When: Jun 15, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Heard that a large foot hold pulled on this thing.... It was the loose foot block (but large) that most people used up in the roof area on the right side.... Makes DPD harder???


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Brown Palace (5.11a)
By: Stephen Nance When: Jun 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Freakin' amazing. The only problem I can think of about this route is once word gets out, it will be packed...

- short approach
- 6 pitches
- super well-protected
- amazing views

Doesn't get better.

Stephen


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: Stephen Nance When: May 30, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Spot on .12c. I am 6'5", and it is still hard. Rhe bottom crux sequence maybe easier for me, but getting my feet up for the last sequence to the jug is very tough for me with my height.

My opinion, this could be the benchmark 12c in CCC.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Stephen Nance When: May 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: There is another ledge to the right of Suburban Cowgirl. I cannot find these/this (might be only one) routes in any guid book.

This route starts out on small crimps then throws to a ledge that is perhaps 3 feet long and angles up and left (very obvious). Get established and go up to terrible sidepulls in a seam or go out left to another slopey ledge.

From there, it is a mantle to the anchors. The anchors look new and the bolts are pretty far apart from another. Seemed like a very hard move... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Proud Mary (5.12c)
By: Stephen Nance When: Sep 2, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: All three pitches went down today in its entirety.

P1- 5.9, P2-.12b, P3-.12c.

Shane Glazier (my cousin) sent the 2nd pitch first go, then I sent the 3rd pitch my third burn, Shane also sent it his 3rd go right after me. Not as hard as I thought it would be but still strenuous.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Proud Mary (5.12c)
By: Stephen Nance When: Aug 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: All moves went down the other day my first go, this should go free next trip to mary's hopefully. The last pitch is amazing!! It does need some cleaning and holds are still breaking off. Although I do not believe this will affect the crux move. My opinion, .12d. Although that opinion does not matter till it goes down free!!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Proud Mary (5.12c)
By: Stephen Nance When: May 14, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: So, I am confused.... The third pitch has or has not gone free yet??


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Chalk Creek Boulder aka Bou... : Photo
By: Stephen Nance When: Dec 1, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Probably not the FA....


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Chalk Creek Boulder aka Bou... : Bob's Ramp (submitted as So... (V2)
By: Stephen Nance When: Dec 1, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: That's good to know, I really do not need the credit of the FA, I too have been going here since the '90s and had to do a TON of cleaning on the slab. That is the only reason why I thought it might have been the FA.


Location: CO : New Parking Lot at Lumpy Ri...
By: Stephen Nance When: Jun 3, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: They should make the old parking lot into a cheap camp ground! Money for the the Park Service, and an excellent convenience. Just my opinion.

Stephen


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Turtle Rocks Bouldering Are... : Instant Karma (V5)
By: Stephen Nance When: May 30, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: i need to get down there to do this problem again, absoluetly incredible.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Turtle Rocks Bouldering Are...
By: Stephen Nance When: Mar 20, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Well, if they feel easier, feel free to downgrade the problems. I know Instant Karma I did while we were both very tired. Just let me know what you think the grades were. And yeah, I saw a pic of that problem, looked nice! Was it new beta that got you to the top of Instant Karma?


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Turtle Rocks Bouldering Are...
By: Stephen Nance When: Mar 19, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Robby- Did u get any of those problems?? I saw the new pics! Call me lemme know!


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>