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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Buzz Rock
By: steitz When: Feb 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a cool place to climb though the trail is a little vague. The hike up alone is worth it for the cool / different views of the Potrero and Hidalgo.
Some of the routes are starting to have vegetation reclaim some of the holds, you might get a cactus tickling your face.
The chains at the top of a lot of the climbs are bleeding rust and very rusty.
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Location: ME : Long Reach Crag
By: steitz When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This crag should be taken off the site. Its eroding, its unstable, and its prominence is attracting some vain FA wannabees, as shown by Silas's account.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Toe Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: steitz When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: true!
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: steitz When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: hey Zigs,
That's a direct variation, and a 5.7+
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6)
By: steitz When: Apr 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Current Bolt Status (4/7/2012)
2 bolt anchor at the end of p2 (The Traverse)
that's it. all other bolts have been removed.
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Location: ME : Prosject
By: steitz When: Mar 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's tricky, email me for the details.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag (CLOSED) : Roadside Attraction (5.7)
By: steitz When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best climb of this grade I have ever climbed.
Simply AWESOME.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10+) : Photo
By: steitz When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wish I could rate this photo "Insane" instead of just "Great"
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : A-Sharp (5.6)
By: steitz When: Nov 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I think that's it. I got the name from the old climbing magazine topo.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Streamside Arete (Belly Flo... (V0)
By: steitz When: Nov 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool, thanks for the historical beta.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Unnamed Crack (5.7)
By: steitz When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's the unnamed 5.7 (5.9) crack with the "bouldery start" (5.9)
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Location: ME : Long Reach Crag
By: steitz When: Sep 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock here is just terrible - soft, exfoliating and loose. It is barely balanced on itself, just waiting for you to come along and pull it down. It certainly can't hold a stopper, much less a cam, and even less so a bolt.
Climb if you must, but keep in mind the erosion factor if you pull down too much of the cliff.
Really though, the rock is terrible. It seems to be some sort of mica infested unconsolidated shale. You'd be better off heading up the road a bit to Camden, inland to western m... more >>
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Location: NH : Wild River Crags (aka Evans...
By: steitz When: Sep 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Y'all. I've created a shell pond area in Maine for that awesome crag. If you have any info on the place please throw it up on the shell pond page, before it all gets lost to the obscurity of time. Thanks!
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Big Chick Hill : Main Face : My Time (5.5)
By: steitz When: Apr 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route Tip - The bolts on the 3rd pitch are directly above the two bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch. Literally straight up. It's about 40' to the first bolt.
Also, the bolts look a little sketchy. There's rust weeping out of the glue.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Hideout : Shock and Awe (5.7)
By: steitz When: Mar 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, easy
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Location: NH : Back Bay Stone Boulders
By: steitz When: Nov 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What town is this in?
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : Engel Arete (5.7)
By: steitz When: Oct 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nuts are best for building the anchor at the top, There aren't any super great cam placements except for one way way back.
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Location: ME : Castine : Dyce's Deliverance (5.6)
By: steitz When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock can be a little crappy. We pulled off a flake the size of a table top while climbing.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park
By: steitz When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seconding that Acadia - A Climber's Guide by Jeff Butterfield is a must have resource.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : South Bubble : Upper Slab and Upper Wall
By: steitz When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed here in november, and fallen leaves made it hard to find the hikers trail. We cut right and scrambled along the old rusted and retired walking trail, with ancient fixed protection from the early 1900s. Got back to the top of the upper slab and rap'd out.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : South Bubble : Photo
By: steitz When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cracks to follow run up the left side
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Great Head : Morning Glory Alcove : Morning Glory (5.8+)
By: steitz When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Winter Climbing Stats-
The pitch is Ice free, with snow and mix precip it becomes a little wet, but the holds are so good you can power through that.
Protected area lets you stay out of the winter wind, and the generally calm winter seas don't bother you.
The climb is Southeast facing, so you're well protected from wind from every direction except that.
Beautiful and secluded, if you climb this winter you'll have it all to yourself.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Old Town (5.7)
By: steitz When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A super fun climb that's easy to protect. Great for your first time leading, a 50m rope is all you need to reach the ground. The view of the ocean is priceless.
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