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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Lordsokol-
Bill Wright and I soloed Kieners car-to-car yesterday in just under 8 hours. We topped out in 3h15m, but then returned to Table Ledge to retrieve some gear I had left (ropes + rack) and rapped the Diamond.
I'd bet Kiener's has been round-tripped with a descent of the N. Face easily in 4 hours, maybe less!
Nice job shaving 30+ minute off your time just a week later!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today on a whim with zero knowledge of the route's history or the comments here. I was able to get in a decent #1 Camalot, as well as a #9 or #10 stopper before the 1st bolt. I linked the original P1 and P2 (as it sounds like most people do), and followed the original line up the arete after the hand traverse.
I think this pitch deserves a PG13 rating - I never felt like I was gonna get hurt if I fell, but some portions were definitely spicy. Very enjoyable a... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Head Cheese (5.12d)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a terrific route! The clipping (and climbing!) is burly near the closely spaced bolts, but the fall is into clean air. Traversing above the lip of the roof on those 4 unlikely and amazingly huge pockets will make you smile! A very long draw on the lower of the 2 close bolts could make the redpoint feel less scary.
Also, Andy Wellman and I both felt the last bolt would be much better a few feet to the left. It would still be easy to clip, you have to move left anyway for the final mo... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Glue Slippage (5.12b)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb looks great from the ground, but compared to the many other great climbs at Cactus Cliff, I felt this one was mediocre. It starts with 25' of chossy, easy climbing. The next 3-4 bolts up the steep arcing crack feature are fantastic and pretty hard. The final crux involves (for me) pulling on a hollow-sounding Frisbee-sized flake. I predict that this flake will soon be tossed just like a Frisbee thus making the route a bit harder. Due to the chossy start, creaky flake, and non-sus... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed Outer Space again on 9/15. I hadn't seen the above comment regarding the pin, so I was surprised when it wasn't there. I was able to place a good nut AND a good yellow Alien within a foot of each other where the pin used to be, so I don't think it need to be replaced. I will bring this up with the Eldo FHRC.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 9/6/2006, the CO Hwy 67 south of Deckers is closed, so the eastern approach is not possible if you are driving in from the north.
For the western approach, a mountain bike will save you an hour or so total on the approach/de-approach, since the old road is closed to motor vehicles. I measured the parking area to be exactly 3.6 miles past the Goose Creek CG. The closed road is in good shape, and we were able to ride it both directions with climbing packs. It was about 3 miles, and took ... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Vault
By: Stefan Griebel When: Nov 1, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I left my Canon S400 Elph digital camera in this area on the weekend of 10/22/05. I posted to the lost and found section as well, but I thought I'd add a post here in case someone didn't see the lost and found. I'll offer at least $50 reward. climbingdreams at hotmail.com
Thanks,Stefan
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Oct 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Bo-
You're not the first to notice this new bolt. There was a thread on here about it a few months ago, but I don't see it anywhere now. In summary, there were 4 or 5 other people who noticed this and posted. I was one of them. At first I thought maybe I had overlooked it the first 50 or so times I climbed the 1st Flatiron, but after everyone else noticed as well, I'm convinced that it was placed recently, and whoever placed it tried to disguise it as being old by using a buttonhead and... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jul 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool! Thanks Byron, Malte and Melissa. You guys Rock!!!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: Stefan Griebel When: May 17, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks everyone! But now it's time to congratulate some real speed climbers. Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden went back to the Black on 5/12 and did the route in 8h59m! (http://www.speedclimbing.org) Now that is smokin' fast!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon
By: Stefan Griebel When: May 17, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm glad Alan and I could provide a little motivation for some real speed climbers. Jared and Ryan went back and did it 8h59m!!!
_a href="http://www.wwwright.com/climbing/speed/"_http://www.www>>>>>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: Stefan Griebel When: May 1, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Friday (4/22/05), we climbed P1-P6 so that we would be familiar with the location of the start and the easy free pitches that we would be doing in the dark the next day. Then we rapped to the ground, stashed our rope and gear, and hiked back out for some dinner and sleep.
Saturday, we got up early, descended in the dark (it was a full moon though), and started climbing at 0347 on my watch. We thought we had it in the bag for sure at the end of the last hard aid pitch as it was still light ou... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Oct 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man, I hate to get in the middle of this, but,
"Judging from the few comments that were posted about these bolts, the majority of the community seems to agree, there isn't a home for bolts on Bitty Buttress"
A total of 4 people commented. (I'm ignoring the AC) I don't think this constitutes a majority of the community.
Scott and Shad: pro-removalRon: appears neutralStefan: slightly in favor of keeping them.
However, since a "majority consensus" obviously did not exist to add the bolts in... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Oct 12, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: They are right at the top of the first pitch of BB. The bolts are on a small (~1-2') ledge on your left, not the huge ledge below the 1st move of P2. I would guess that they were placed for BB, and not the sport climb on the left, but I have not done the sport climb. They were there sometime back in April or May when I last did this climb. You can't even see them until you are standing at the ledge, and they're actually placed quite conveniently for belaying up the second. I had done this c... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route last weekend. I started up and clipped the 1st bolt, then looked up at the remainder of the route, cleaned my draw and downclimbed. I couldn't clip the bolts in good conscience, especially after my girlfriend carried a rack of cams up to the crag!
I grabbed a single run of cams and a few nuts out of the pack and headed up. I ignored the bolts and placed 7 pieces of gear, all bomber, ranging from green Alien size to #3 Camalot size. I could have easily placed mor... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Colorado's own mini-Astroman! The 5.12 slab is a welcome substitution for the Harding Slot...
Double ropes would be nicer, but you can rap back to your starting point with a single 60m rope in 5 rappels. There is a bolted face climb to the right of Wunsch's and Center route that wanders up the face and has beefy bolted anchors every 100 feet. The anchors are not in line with each other, and you'll have to swing over a bit to reach 2 of them.
Rap 1: From the summit, west to the shoulder. ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Just Another Boy's Climb (5.11d)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jun 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route Fred! What an amazing find! From the ground you can't see any of the jugs, or the crack at the top, and yet this route is sustained and continuous with a very distinct crux at the last bolt. Hand traversing across and up the steep crack was awesome. 3 stars for sure.
I'll agree with the other posters about the pump-factor, but if you get the feet right, you can get a bit of a rest at the bottom of the final crack. Not much rest, but maybe enough to fire on up to the anchors.
M... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Dream Street Rose (5.11b/c)
By: Stefan Griebel When: May 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fine route. 2 of the 4 pins can be backed up with excellent small alien placements. If you have just 1 screamer, save it for the last pin (around the corner of the ramp). From there it feels a little spicy until you get to easier ground 10' higher. You may be able to fiddle around with some small nuts here, but they would be tricky and balancy to place. The ramp and crux section are very licheny and appear to have seen almost no traffic. The overhanging 5.10 finger crack is stell... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Universal Crag : Palm Pilot (5.13d)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Nov 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Greaser's comment. Has anyone else been on The Lorax? Holy Smokes!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Stefan Griebel When: Aug 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man, Bill, is this a troll or what?! Well, Aaron:
1. You're family friend on Little Bear violated the 2nd rule of mountaineering.
2. He then succumbed to the 1st rule of mountaineering.
3. If only he had climbed a bit faster!
There is no disrespect in speed. In fact, most speed climbers I know of are much more aware of their surroundings, and thus that much more respectful of the consequences of rules 1 and 2.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Stefan Griebel When: Aug 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second Rule of Mountaineering: Weather is second only to gravity as ultimate ruler of the mountains. There can be safety in speed.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jul 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with all previous comments regarding the crux. I was able to slot a bomber small stopper from a non-strenuous lieback/handjam before commiting myself to the crux moves. I would definitely recommend running the 2 crux pitches together as the hanging belay at the end of the 1st crux pitch is not too comfortable.
The "10d mantel" noted on Gillet's topo is 5.9+ if you move 1' to the right of the bolt.
Regarding the topo, there may be some pin/bolt count discrepancies, but the accuracy ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jul 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Trim the phat (tat, that is).
1. The first or second time I got on this route, the tat was windblown around the bolt it is tied too, and I couldn't even reach it.
2. The bolt is harder to clip after you've pulled the crux with that mess of tat on there.
3. The fall off the crux is a blast. Nothing but air!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jul 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oops. I didn't see Matt's comment indicating that there was snow all the way up to the toe of the ridge. When I did this climb, that part was all melted out while much snow was still in the coulior.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jul 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would recommend leaving the crampons at home and do the 5.9 more direct start instead. Otherwise the crux of the climb may well be getting across and up the couloir and onto the rock. Also, if there is another party above you, the couloir will probably funnel any rockfall right on top of you. And believe me, climbing the NW ridge without generating any rockfall would be an incredible feat. I personally don't think it could be done. Well, maybe if you free solo it so your rope doesn't knoc... more >>
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